New Member Gets 5 Machines

Jim that's a great idea. I think I have a print on the cnc milling machine. I should be able to see if they can be split easily. I have a vfd on the 1j milling machine that I am using . I operate the mill with it's original on off switch and leave the vfd on. It seems to be operating OK.
 
gold642 said:
Jim that's a great idea. I think I have a print on the cnc milling machine. I should be able to see if they can be split easily. I have a vfd on the 1j milling machine that I am using . I operate the mill with it's original on off switch and leave the vfd on. It seems to be operating OK.
Click to expand...

Maybe not the best way, but I'm not going to argue with success. :) It would be pretty easy to wire the original switch into the control side of the VFD rather than switching the output.
 
Cal Haines said:
The 10EE's serial number should be stamped on the right end of the bed, in front, between the flat way for the tailstock and the Vee-way for the carriage.

Cal
Click to expand...
Cal, I finally got the 10ee connected and being used. I just wanted to thank you for all your help. If you or anyone runs across an original hydraulic drive I would be interested in getting it so I could restore the lathe. The one problem the lathe has is the thread forward level kicks out unless you hold it in. I opened the top cover and the synchronizer has some damaged surfaces. Where can one of these be purchased? I have also connected the Monarch 50 series lathe to a rotophase but have been unable to get it to run yet. I am looking for anyone with repair knowledge on it. I think it is simple problem but I need a electrical drawing so I can trouble shoot it.
 
JimDawson said:
Maybe not the best way, but I'm not going to argue with success. :) It would be pretty easy to wire the original switch into the control side of the VFD rather than switching the output.
Click to expand...
I wanted to thank you for your help. I used the Bridgeport j all the time. I made a bracket to hold the vfd right next to the digital read outs. It works great .I just posted info on the cnc series one in the Bridgeport area. let me know if you have any additional ideas. I used the idea to connect the controls to a stable 120 volt separated circuit.
 
Hey Ted, nice score. I am still certain you got a bargain for the price paid. I was just curious where you are located. Maybe someone is close that could swing by and give you a hand. Forgive me if you location is posted and I missed it. I am computer illiterate, so that is very possible.
 
I'm located in north east ohio. would love it if someone can show me how to operate this bridgeport series 1 3 axes milling machine.
 
Wish I was closer! Very nice purchase on all that machinery. I envy you on the Monarch 10 ee!

(I know it was an old post but) As stated by others, you do not want to interrupt the output of the VFD. I'm surprised it did not trip and error on you. Glad you got it worked out using the VFD's control logic.
 
I wish I was closer too...I'm way down in TX. I definitely have some tool envy. I have quite a bit of manual machines, but I'd love to have a cnc. And of course a 10ee is on everyone's wish list!
 
Thanks for your comments. All I have left to get going is the CNC Milling machine. I moved the vfd on the manual mill up next to the digital readout and do everything on the vfd instead of the original electrical switches. I use it all the time. On the 50 series model 16 monarch I have been using the roto phase and it seems to be working fine. The CNC has been more of a challenge. I disconnected the 120 volt transformer and ran a separate circuit to the 120v control . This gave me a stable control voltage. The roto phase runs the 3 phase on the rest of the mill. My son-in-law is rebuilding the computer so I can program using the cam programs I got with the machine. The machine seems to use boss 5 or boss 6 as a language. I am now working on the surface grinder . I have to grind the top of the magnetic chuck to make it parallel with the stone. I have the chuck bolted down and need to make a bar for the end of the chuck as the original is missing.I am working on my saw mill. Over the years someone has over tightened the nut and warped the arbor and front plate. I'm find it challenging to machine the arbor were the blade attaches. I have my tool post grinder ready to attach to the saw mill . I don't think grinding the face flat is going to be difficult. However I need a difference of .004 over the outside 3/4 inch of the arbor. Since the arbor is stepped in only 3/4 inch touches the blade. In order to set my tool post grinder to .004 slant on the 3/4 inch. I have made a disc which fits nicely to the arbor. Once I grind both sides of this disc. This should give me a true surface to set dial in to .004 in 3/4 inch. Once my cross feed is set then I can grind the correct angle on the arbor. A friend of mine has a old cross feed that I intend to affix to the saw mill husk. By making this slight tapper allows the arbor and front plate to fully contact the blade. I'm told when the nut is tightened the arbor and nut flex slightly. I'll let you know how it all works out.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top