'New' lathe has landed!

DavidR8 said:
And have a better network of machinist friends
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That can be dangerous, a lot of my major machine purchases started with, "I'm thinking about adding XYZ to the shop", and next thing I know somebody I know is emailing saying "Hey, I've got one I was getting ready to throw up on Craigslist".

Also picked up a few that skipped part A, just somebody saying "I have XYZ, or I have a buddy with XYZ anybody interested before it goes on Craigslist".

Option 3 is "hey anybody see this XYZ on Craigslist".

Networking is definitely a thing. ;)
 
Got the tool post on today with the help of a friends milling machine.
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DavidR8 said:
The lathe was a bit of a trick as it wanted to tilt over.

View attachment 443927
Click to expand...

I promise I'm not saying this to be mean, but the reason it wanted to tip over is because you were lifting it the wrong way. That method was lifting from below the bed, so all the weight was higher than the lifting point. There was nothing to prevent it from tipping sideways as you found, but it could have also rotated parallel to the strap and crashed headstock end down as well. I only mention this because you might have to lift it again, and because lots of people read threads like this and time and again I see threads about moving lathes and it's being done wrong (I've killed a lathe and don't want others to experience that).

If you have to lift it again, wrap the strap around a cross brace, then back through itself so the strap is a choker and self-tightens. That will move the lift center closer to the top of the bed and while it will be able to swing in any direction, it can't tip or roll and you can stabilize it literally with one hand. Move the tailstock and apron left/right to get it as level as possible then lock both in place. Use the actual carriage lock just in case you get a bump...I failed to do that once and a big bump caused a shaft in the apron to bend when the loader operator banged the cabinet into the trailer and the carriage slid into the headstock.

If there isn't a cross brace that will work, you can chocker a strap around the bed perpendicular to the length, just make sure it's not putting pressure on the lead screw. On many lathes you can run the strap between the lead screw and the bed and it won't make contact, but on some you have to put a block of wood above the lead screw to push the strap out. It's easy enough to lift an inch or two and see if you need to move the strap in/out for balance. It's not quite as secure as around a cross brace, but pretty close....self tightens.

I wasn't lifting the lathe, just put a strap on to take a picture for another similar thread. On some lathes you might have to run two straps like this...one near the headstock and one closer to the tailstock, and then have both go to the crane. I have to do that with my Logan because of where the cross braces are and the fact it's very heavy for the short length. If I use the brace closest to the headstock the tailstock is way too low. If I use the second from the headstock the tailstock is way too high. If I use both it comes up level.

IMG_3724.PNG
 
G-ManBart, that's not mean. It's wise counsel. Another way is to fabricate a bracket that fits under the bed and can be moved forward or backward to find the balance point. I have an Eisen 1440 EV - the exact same lathe as jareese talks about in 'Keep it from tipping when moving'. That is, indeed, a heavy piece of equipment that must be carefully balanced when moving. I made this bracket that allowed the lifting point to be above the lathe instead of below it. And it could be moved forward or backward to find that sweet spot to keep it balanced. I lifted it as low as possible with a an engine hoist, and scooted around the shop to its final resting place. Sorry - didn't take any pictures while it was attached to the lathe. I was a little busy at the time.

Regards

IMG_1392.jpgIMG_1393.jpgIMG_1394.jpgIMG_1395.jpgIMG_1396.jpgIMG_1397.jpgIMG_1398.jpg

The final resting place:
IMG_0324.jpg
 
tjb said:
Another way is to fabricate a bracket that fits under the bed and can be moved forward or backward to find the balance point.

View attachment 444243View attachment 444244
Click to expand...

That is probably the best way to do it! I believe some vintage lathes actually shipped with something along those lines if my memory is correct. I plan to make something similar for my Logan...bed braces aren't in the right spot and it's over 1,600lbs, but has a short bed (28" between centers) so you can't really run the carriage far enough to get things balanced.
 
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@DavidR8

Congratulations on the "new" lathe.
It looks to be in great shape.

Brian
 
Thanks, it's pretty decent. I have to make a new key to drive the cross slide and one new change gear busing and then it will be all set.
I lucked out. Again. :)
 
G-ManBart said:
I promise I'm not saying this to be mean, but the reason it wanted to tip over is because you were lifting it the wrong way. That method was lifting from below the bed, so all the weight was higher than the lifting point. There was nothing to prevent it from tipping sideways as you found, but it could have also rotated parallel to the strap and crashed headstock end down as well. I only mention this because you might have to lift it again, and because lots of people read threads like this and time and again I see threads about moving lathes and it's being done wrong (I've killed a lathe and don't want others to experience that).

If you have to lift it again, wrap the strap around a cross brace, then back through itself so the strap is a choker and self-tightens. That will move the lift center closer to the top of the bed and while it will be able to swing in any direction, it can't tip or roll and you can stabilize it literally with one hand. Move the tailstock and apron left/right to get it as level as possible then lock both in place. Use the actual carriage lock just in case you get a bump...I failed to do that once and a big bump caused a shaft in the apron to bend when the loader operator banged the cabinet into the trailer and the carriage slid into the headstock.

If there isn't a cross brace that will work, you can chocker a strap around the bed perpendicular to the length, just make sure it's not putting pressure on the lead screw. On many lathes you can run the strap between the lead screw and the bed and it won't make contact, but on some you have to put a block of wood above the lead screw to push the strap out. It's easy enough to lift an inch or two and see if you need to move the strap in/out for balance. It's not quite as secure as around a cross brace, but pretty close....self tightens.

I wasn't lifting the lathe, just put a strap on to take a picture for another similar thread. On some lathes you might have to run two straps like this...one near the headstock and one closer to the tailstock, and then have both go to the crane. I have to do that with my Logan because of where the cross braces are and the fact it's very heavy for the short length. If I use the brace closest to the headstock the tailstock is way too low. If I use the second from the headstock the tailstock is way too high. If I use both it comes up level.

View attachment 444236
Click to expand...
Thanks for the observations and advice, it is appreciated.

The strap was wrapped multiple time around the webs in the bed. Part of the challenge was my strap was too long.

But I plan to make a setup like tjb made as that's a better solution.

Like your Logan, the Clausing is very headstock heavy and even with the tailstock and carriage locked at the far end it's still not enough counter-balance.
 
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