New here, purchasing a used Mill. HELP!

That lathe looks like something that a sewing machine company would come up with. Seriously, is that overhead arm a light?
 
Good advise all around , start by lowering the head down to the table . Keep weight low , lock all moving parts , take handles off table and crooks slide . X+y , they get bent and break. Even with care engine hoist and straps is best , but sliding it will work with a cumalong just keep it low if possible screw or bolt the legs or base to 4x4s and pipe rollers three ft long time three it will roll all over and never fall on flat surface it can slide up ramps too. Get the picture pick your poison cheap the pipe cumalong 4x4 bolts cost less by a hundred easy . But straps to hold it down get two 2" ratchet straps x cross to trailer low not high. Get the low reason. Oh I forgot hi and welcome to the site were here to help or try to .
 
FOMOGO said:
Not sure I would go that far, but it is a very cool machine. Not sure, but I'm going to guess Italian. Mike
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You're right....but this thing is pretty to look at, I'm sure far better made than most anything you can find (within reason) is that Mustang in your avatar a 64& a half fastback?
 
I'm a far cry from a professional, but this should be a good start....

As far as what to look for, start by checking the backlash. Move the table one way a few turns, then see how far the wheel turns in the reverse until the table starts to move; you should feel it when the backlash is out as a bit more resistance to turning the wheel. Check it at various points, it will help you find out where the heavy wear is. Turn it on, listen to the spindle for grinding or rattling. Take an indicator and stand with you to take measurements. Turn the table all the way one way and snug the gibs up so it's bound, then loosen it just enough to move again. Move the table and note, does it bind? Do the gib screws tighten up the same amount mid travel of the table? At the far end?

Often extra tooling can be worth as much or more than the machine itself. Does it have a vise, R8 collets, tool holders, endmills? Is the taper an R8?
 
Not sure what a Jet 16 is. Are you referring to a Jet JMD-15 or perhaps a JMD-18? The former is the equivalent of an RF-25, while the latter is nearly the same as an RF-30/31. These are mill/drills with round columns and typically sit on a sheet metal stand. Mill weight is about 400# or so and the whole thing is in the neighborhood of about 700#. On the stand, it is very top heavy.

If we are talking about a mill/drill, the easiest way to move it is to lower the head all the way down and lock the head with the two nuts on the right side. Use lifting straps and an engine hoist to lift it. I would remove all handles and any light fixture first so you don't damage them. Get the straps up close to the column and the thing will lift pretty easily with an engine hoist.

As far as what to look for, if it is nearly new as you say then it should be in fair shape. Jet machines are mostly/all made in Taiwan so they are a bit nicer than a Chinese equivalent. Backlash on these machines can be adjusted with the leadcrew nut on the X and Y axis. Spindle bearings are not expensive unless you opt for angular contact bearings. Drive sleeve bearings are cheap. I would make sure the motor is good and there is no significant wear on the ways or the table. The ways are flaked and you should be able to make out the pattern on the ways near the front. The gibs and the very un-precise tapered gib type but they work; make sure they're there.

Try to get all the tooling you can with this deal, especially a vise.

These machines are not difficult to work on, easy to adjust and can do some real work.
 
Seriously bummed, mill sold before I could get there. Anyway, anyone familiar with Bolton mills? More specifically, the 9 1\2 by 32 gear head ZX45? Looks damn good for novice but this is new territory for me...hence the search for help.
Thank all, you have been super helpful!
 
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