New guys here with a stupid question.

[RJSakowski]

Add to the methods for setting tool height, this little gage.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/370592279135?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true

In testing, I found it capable of detecting a height difference of .001".

 

[carlquib]

I'm partial to the wedge type tool holders. More repeatable and stable in my experience,
since it pulls the holder in instead of pushing it out.

Hello, my name is Brian and I'm a toolaholic

 

[T Bredehoft]

One more thought on shimming the tool. (I haven't seen this here, so put it out as a suggestion)
Shim the four tool block. If all your tools are 3/8 inch, and you are an eighth low, put an eighth shim under the four tool holder. One shim, one time, instead of every time you use a tool.
Of course, if you have different sized tools, this won't work.

 

[stupoty]

You are not facing a part held that far from the chuck are you?

To answer your question however, place a part in the chuck and face across it and then shim the tool until the nub disappears, this may take a good deal of time. This is the only way to set a facing tool to 0 or parting tool to 0.

Also do not expect brazed carbide tools to repeat, an expensive insert tool will do so after an insert change and are worth the money.

Thats a very good safety point from wreck , if you are facing that far out from the chuck a fixed steady should be used, if you don't have a fixed steady then a lot of caution should be used along with very light cuts and maybe a face shield

The best would be to insert into the spindle for facing and pull it out for putting a center hole in it. But if the work is to big then you have to steady rests etc.

Stuart

 

[markba633csi]

On the QCTPs many people say the "wedge" type post grips better than the "plunger" type. Early Aloris posts were all plunger type but I think the wedge type has been proven to give a more positive grip with the low-cost units. Your mileage of course, may vary.
Mark S.