New Atlas owner

Buckshot,

Welcome aboard.

First, although you will have to remove the headstock from the bed in order to change the two A42 spindle belts and that will take you a while, you will probable never have to do it again. I bought my 3996 new in 1981 and am just now needing to change the spindle belts. And the motor belt and countershaft belt are easy to change once you have the spindle belts changed and the headstock back in place.

I am not going to tell you not to use link belts but decent quality ones will generally cost you more than V-belts, are not rated to run in reverse, and some other negatives compared to V-belts. And if anyone ever made link belt replacements for the A-Series belts, I've not seen them.

In the Atlas section of Downloads, you will find among other things a technical bulletin detailing how ti change the spindel belts. The only drawback is that access to Downloads requires Donor status (any level from $10.00 per year on up). Files in Downloads are organized first by brand or maker.. After you are in Downloads (click on Downloads in the main menu at TOS), follow the first two instructions (Click Here First and Click Here Second), scroll down and click on Atlas. Then find and download what you wish. Including the file on the headstock and the 3995/3996 owner's manual (and anything else that looks interesting). We also have copies of some of the factory parts drawings stored under Drawings.

I will also add that access to sell things on the site for historical reasons costs $25.00 per year. The Donor software that we use was actually written by PayPal and has no provision for up or down grades other than waiting until a year has passed.

Clausing Industrial still supports the 3996 to some extent. Be advised, however, that for the most part, new parts are mostly priced at what they would cost today, not what they would have cost circa 1967.
 
Buckshot,

Welcome aboard.

First, although you will have to remove the headstock from the bed in order to change the two A42 spindle belts and that will take you a while, you will probable never have to do it again. I bought my 3996 new in 1981 and am just now needing to change the spindle belts. And the motor belt and countershaft belt are easy to change once you have the spindle belts changed and the headstock back in place.

I am not going to tell you not to use link belts but decent quality ones will generally cost you more than V-belts, are not rated to run in reverse, and some other negatives compared to V-belts. And if anyone ever made link belt replacements for the A-Series belts, I've not seen them.

In the Atlas section of Downloads, you will find among other things a technical bulletin detailing how ti change the spindel belts. The only drawback is that access to Downloads requires Donor status (any level from $10.00 per year on up). Files in Downloads are organized first by brand or maker.. After you are in Downloads (click on Downloads in the main menu at TOS), follow the first two instructions (Click Here First and Click Here Second), scroll down and click on Atlas. Then find and download what you wish. Including the file on the headstock and the 3995/3996 owner's manual (and anything else that looks interesting). We also have copies of some of the factory parts drawings stored under Drawings.

I will also add that access to sell things on the site for historical reasons costs $25.00 per year. The Donor software that we use was actually written by PayPal and has no provision for up or down grades other than waiting until a year has passed.

Clausing Industrial still supports the 3996 to some extent. Be advised, however, that for the most part, new parts are mostly priced at what they would cost today, not what they would have cost circa 1967.
Very useful information. Thinking it was like my 618 Atlas and my 9" Logan witch do not have reverse capability you made a very valid point that the link belts only run in one direction unlike bigger reversible lathes. You're also correct on the cost of the link belt system, it is expensive. Thanks.
 
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wa5cab,
Thank you very much for your feed back.....I already purchased what I believe to be the proper replacement belts but I was going to go with the link belt after seeing what was entailed......After your pointing out the problem with reverse as well as the cost and the fact I already have a set of belts I think I will just bite the bullet, gut the head stock and install them. I don't see very much information on the Atlas 12 #3996.....are they undesirable or problematic ? I am also in need of a replacement chuck maybe a 8 or 10 inch from ebay ? ? ?. Any information you folks can offer is very much appreciated as my experience is limited... ..Thanks again.
Have fun,
buckshot
 
In my opinion, the 3996 or equivalent Craftsman are the best machines that Atlas ever built. The relatively small number of Downloads files that mention it is for the most part only due to its being the final model built. Atlas or Clausing did not in general go back and add 3996 to any older part or procedure that is also applicable to the 3996.

On chuck sizes, I have two 6" 3-jaw and one 8" 4-jaw. If I had it to do all over again, I might opt for a 10" 4-jaw but maybe not. I don't recall more than a couple if things that I would have used it on. And it would be large enough to strike the ways with the jaws only a little way outside the chuck -body. The older that you get, the heavier the chucks will seem. The 4-jaw and one of the 3-jaw are original solid-jaw Atlas, The other 3-jaw which I use probably 95% of the time is a Buck style chuck made by ??? Buck's main US competitor. It weighs at least 3 times what the 4-jaw does. And I also have a 2MT, 3MT and 3AT collet set and all of the other accessories that Atlas ever made except for the bed turret. Plus a QCTP and about a dozen and a half holders.
 
wa5cab,
Being a novice at this I have been wondering why this Atlas is called a 12 inch if I can't use a 12 inch chuck? It seems if I were to install a 12 inch chuck there would be no way to open the jaws to install any type of work to cut.....Please correct me if I am wrong but I think the size I should be looking for is a one that I can fully open the jaws on without contacting the ways....What would be the largest 3 jaw that can be fully opened for this machine ? What size is your go to 3 jaw chuck?
Have fun,
buckshot
 
wa5cab,
Thank you very much for your feed back.....I already purchased what I believe to be the proper replacement belts but I was going to go with the link belt after seeing what was entailed......After your pointing out the problem with reverse as well as the cost and the fact I already have a set of belts I think I will just bite the bullet, gut the head stock and install them. I don't see very much information on the Atlas 12 #3996.....are they undesirable or problematic ? I am also in need of a replacement chuck maybe a 8 or 10 inch from ebay ? ? ?. Any information you folks can offer is very much appreciated as my experience is limited... ..Thanks again.
Have fun,
buckshot

wa5cab,
Being a novice at this I have been wondering why this Atlas is called a 12 inch if I can't use a 12 inch chuck? It seems if I were to install a 12 inch chuck there would be no way to open the jaws to install any type of work to cut.....Please correct me if I am wrong but I think the size I should be looking for is a one that I can fully open the jaws on without contacting the ways....What would be the largest 3 jaw that can be fully opened for this machine ? What size is your go to 3 jaw chuck?
Have fun,
buckshot
Hi, 6" above center of the spindle and 6" below. Thats a 6" swing on a 12" lathe. It will take a 5" or 6" 3 jaw chuck.
 
The 12" Atlas is called a 12" in the US economic areas because it will swing a work piece over the ways with a maximum diameter of about 12". The swing over the saddle is about half of that.

And The Brits would call it a 6".

A decent 12" 3-jaw chuck would probably weigh more than you could lift. And would definitely weigh more than I could lift. And would cost several thousand dollars or more.

My Go-to 3-jaw chuck is the heavier 6 inch one.
 
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The 12" Atlas is called a 12" in the US economic areas because it will swing a work piece over the ways with a maximum diameter of about 12". The swing over the saddle is about half of that.

And The Brits would call it a 6".

A decent 12" 3-jaw chuck would probably weigh more than you could lift. And would definitely weigh more than I could lift. And would cost several thousand dollars or more.

My Go-to 3-jaw chuck is the heavier 6 inch one.
Ok, That's the info I am looking for. Now it's finding one that will screw onto the shaft.....
 
I would not want to lift anything bigger than an 8" chuck. One of my 8" chucks is a Logan with 2 1/4 x 8tpi threads. I made a simple adapter with 1 1/2 x 8tpi to screw onto the spindle and 2 1/4 x 8tpi to screw into the Logan chuck. So you are not limited to chucks with 1 1/2 x 8tpi threads.

IMG_3837.JPG IMG_3838.JPG

The 8" chucks are 4 jaw chucks that I use primarily for square and rectangular work pieces. Especially if I need to bore a hole off center like I needed to do for the tool holders for my Norman style QCTP. My go to chucks are my 6" 3 and 4 jaw chucks.

IMG_3753.JPG
 
I would not want to lift anything bigger than an 8" chuck. One of my 8" chucks is a Logan with 2 1/4 x 8tpi threads. I made a simple adapter with 1 1/2 x 8tpi to screw onto the spindle and 2 1/4 x 8tpi to screw into the Logan chuck. So you are not limited to chucks with 1 1/2 x 8tpi threads.

View attachment 432659 View attachment 432660

The 8" chucks are 4 jaw chucks that I use primarily for square and rectangular work pieces. Especially if I need to bore a hole off center like I needed to do for the tool holders for my Norman style QCTP. My go to chucks are my 6" 3 and 4 jaw chucks.

View attachment 432661
Hi, something that should be taken into consideration is the additional mass load on the spindle bearings of the Atlas 12". Nice work on the adaptor.
 
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