Here ya go -- Look close, that is an 8" Cushman 4 jaw. The chucked piece weighs 11 lbs, the chuck 30 lbs. 41 lbs total and it's swung by that itty bitty belt. Yes, that is a Jet 9X20. I'll stack mine against all in it's class.
Yes, I am indeed from Johannesburg, South Africa. I did not import the machine directly from overseas - there is an importer in SA (in Port Elizabeth). I simply went to a store in Jhb (they deal mainly with woodworking equipment and carry Jet woodworking machines) and placed an order for the lathe. I ordered on Friday and they had it in store on Wednesday the next week. I picked it up in my pickup without trouble:
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Here are some more pics. The crates unloaded: The stand and the unloaded lathe.
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The blue metal box contains the change gear set (9 gears), some tools and a set of outside jaws for the 3 jaw chuck. The 4-jaw and the faceplate are underneath the ways and bolted to the underside of the crate. Note the lever on the top of the headstock - a reverse threading facility! As far as I have read this feature is not available on the machines in the US -? I note from the packing list that it was signed out from the factory in China in November 2012. Perhaps this is a new specification for the model or just peculiar to the specific factory.
The older Jet 9X20's did not haves the Tumbler Reverse, the new ones do. It was an easy modification. One thing that was immediately evident was the height. I am 6' 3" tall and the lathe was too low for me. I raised the base 6" using blocks and it is fine now.
You new and old alike 9X20 owners need to see this site. This is where I started the build of my Jet a few years ago. The first mod I would suggest is to change the two bolt plate on the cross slide to a four bolt hold down. Please ask questions. I have mods 37 modifications to mine. It was easy for me as I bought mine at a garage sale in boxes. My Jet has no metric threaded fasteners, they have all been changed to SAE, even the lead screws.
Bill, can I ask - when running the lathe, in what position should the belt tensioning roller be? I am sure it should be in contact with the belt, but I don't want to do that and snap the belt on my first try on a weekend :thinking:
Taking pics for you Be right back. I snapped my first one to.
"Billy G"
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First picture is arm up pulled forward. This releases the tensioner. Pic 2 arm is pushed back to the rear, this engaged the tensioner. When engaging the tensioner never let it snap in, keep the lever under your control till it is engaged. Engage after starting the lathe. Does this help? Please excuse the grime, this is a working machine. I clean on Sunday. :lmao:
Thanks Bill. In mine, the belt is tight even with the tensioner disengaged. I would guess that the belt stretches with constant use. I started it up with the belt tensioned with no problem but will also experiment with only engaging it after the motor is running. I will also have to put the stand on supports (I am 184 cm - 6'2") - the stand is really short!
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I figured out what the two plates were. They are lifting aides, but I cannot see where they were supposed to be bolted on. I will use them for something else..
That is as it should be Doc. The belt will seem tight but under a cutting load without the tensioner it will slip. The reason for not engaging till after start up is so the initial torque will not snap the belt.
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