Need Welding Help for Stainless/dissimilar metals to unknown

The access or lack of prevented the successful removal of the broken studs. I got all set up, cut a nut down to size (thinned it down on the lathe) placed the nut over the stud, held it with a magnet and I could not get in close enough to see what I was doing #1.
#2, the cylinder head is angled down and away so I could barely see any of the stud.
The TIG experience I do have always worked out best when I could see what I was doing.
I couldn't get my shoulders in close enough.
We are going to pull the head, put it on my Sharp knee mill and use a carbide end mill to get the dang things out.
That's always worked for me.
This happens quite a bit. Sometimes it's a piece of cake, other times are more interesting.
I am going to pick up some 309 stick rod though. You don't need two hands and one foot to stick weld.
Thanks guys!
 
Use what ever welding method you want as long as you can put a lot of heat into the broken bolt. What I have done many times with excellent results is find a thick flat washer that fits over what's left of the broken bolt or stud. Hold it flat against the head, make a nice hot bead right across the hole in the washer welding the washer and broken bolt together. Now immediately without letting things cool down, weld a full size nut to the washer. Weld around the base of the nut and lastly weld the hole in the nut untill it is full. Concentrate the weld on top of where the broken bolt is when you do the last part (just start at the bottom and work your way to the top untill full). Let things cool off, then unscrew your broken bolt. I do this a lot and it always works.
John
 
We use the left hand bits quite frequently. They work a lot better than a "never out".
 
We ended up removing the head, I decided to use the mill. What the heck, it's at the shop.
We used two 2-4-6 blocks because the head turned sideways was over 9" and I didn't have a hold down set with long enough bolts.
Bolted the 2-4-6 blocks to the table and bolted the head to the 2-4-6 blocks. Worked great.
I found a 3/8 center cut end mill in carbide.
That carbide made mince meat out of the stainless studs.
The truck should be back on the road by noon tomorrow.
 
The welding procedure works best when you weld a flat washer onto the stud first then weld a nut onto the washer. A small scrap of steel/strap with a hole drilled in it also works well. When going with the drilling method make a sleeve out of a rod or bolt that will either fit over the protruding stud or set down into the threaded hole. Through drill the sleeve with a smaller size hole for a pilot bit. The sleeve works great to hit the center every time. I drill up to just under the tap drill size and finish with a tap and an awl or pick to remove little pieces. It also helps to level off the broken stud with a pointed burr tool. The nice thing is that these sleeves can be re-used on the next oops.
 
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