Need to grind my HSS tools... which grinder?

I have also been looking at buying a good grinder with a good support plate, but haven't found one that jumps out. I have a 6" delta with variable speed, but was looking to go to an 8". It also got me thinking about using a belt sander instead.

Anyone use a belt sander instead of grinder for HSS? I even think a combo machine would be nice to have.
 
Hozzie, my father used to keep a belt to be used for HSS. It also had a vacuum unit to try and catch all the dust, but it didn't exactly work perfectly.

I went to Lowes today, and the only comparable version with what I wanted was one by Ryobi. But the Ryobi, despite similar in price around here, has no lamp, much less Amperage, and some other issue that I can not remember now.

I'm still debating on getting an 8" over the 6", but I do like to keep things very portable. The 8" stuff is so much more heavier, which I know is sort of nice, but not so nice for people like me.

The Delta's I saw are much more pricy, but they have variable speed control, which seems interesting to me.

I was wondering if I could just change 6" and 8" wheels to something else for buffering work. As I'd like to buffer 8mm to 15mm jewelry items after cutting. But to be honest, with all the buffering and grinding I will be doing, I will probably just end up needing a whole new other unit anyhow, so I guess trying to go for a 2-in-1 unit is not really going to help me any.
 
I have a buffing wheel on my 6" and a white stone grinding wheel on the other side. I did a brief search and I think I am going to go get one of the harbor freight 1x30 belt sanders and set it up for cutting HSS blanks. There are a lot of video's out there on mods for them and they are cheap. Worth a try for $50.

There must be something similar in Canada.
 
Variable speed might be required for polishing but grinding wheels work best at their rated speed. Slow them down and they act as a softer wheel and crumble.
The white aluminum oxide wheels are a must for high carbon wood working tools such as chisels and plate irons but not necessary for HSS which isn't affected by the heat of grinding.
I bought an 8 inch Princess Auto grinder some years back when it was on sale. It was pathetic, took 10 to 15 seconds to come up to speed and had no power. I bought it for rough grinding mild steel, cleaning up torch cuts, fitting and chamfering. It was useless for that where you need power. I stuck a wire wheel on it making it somewhat usable. It finally died, wouldn't start unless you spun the shaft. I pulled the capacitor and had it checked at the motor shop, twas dead, a new one helped it, spun up faster but still very little power but now it spins a green silicon carbide wheel for carbide. It still has no power but is more than adequate for grinding tools.

Greg
 
Well now! That belt-grinder hybrid is interesting.... Though I have to ask, where is the advantage (if any) of belt over grind-wheel? I also assume it needs much more replacing than a wheel.

About Power-Fist, and power... I do remember one of the first Mini-Lathes I looked at in Canada was the Power-Fist sold at Princess Auto (not sure if they still sell them). The problem, is they were only rated for 1/3 Horse-Power.... They were cheaper I believe, but i'd rather get a CX from Busy Bee and not worry so much of my work stalling constantly.

I read in one of the machinist books here, that the secondary most used purpose of a drill-press, is buffing. Hmmmm.....

I guess that COULD end up being my next 2-in-1 unit... will do more research on this.
 
The_Apprentice said:
Well now! That belt-grinder hybrid is interesting.... Though I have to ask, where is the advantage (if any) of belt over grind-wheel? I also assume it needs much more replacing than a wheel.
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With the right grit, a belt sander will grind a HSS tool bit faster, cooler and with fewer facets. The belt may snap but it won't explode or need dressing. Belt changes normally take seconds to do so you can step up in grits quickly.

I would avoid the 1" belt sanders. The belt is too narrow and the platens on most of them attach to the machine on only one end so they bend under pressure. A 2" belt is much better. You want a machine that takes common belt sizes so you can get them at lower cost. 2X42, 2X48, 2X72 are common sizes.

You also want at least 1/2HP or more. Go less than that and you will bog the motor down or even stop it when you grind a tool.

Almost any belt sander will allow you to grind almost all the tool angles on a turning tool. However, in order to grind back rake you need unimpeded access to the right side of the belt. If there is a frame or any other obstruction then that grinder will not work. In addition, you need a replaceable platen, not one that is integral to the machine. The reason is so you can put a ceramic glass platen liner on a piece of steel and swap it in place of a stamped steel platen. Trust me; you want a glass liner (Pyroceram). You also need to fabricate a good tool rest that will adjust to any angle you need, and it should be made of steel to prevent snagging or grabbing of the tool on the rest.

Do some homework on how HSS lathe tools are ground, then sort out what will work for you. Personally, I only use a belt sander for this.
 
Do Ck the used tool adds , there are many great machines sold at fair prices. I'm sure you will end up with more then one grinder or belt sander .I have four belt grinders all different , about six different tool grinders. Find a good used one with strong too rests , the rests mean more then the size of the wheels. Get yourself at least one diamond dresser , you need to clean and dress wheels often. I like the ones with handles you can add a depth stop to the dresser to keep it square. I have found some of the older Sears craftsmen 6-8" wheel grinders with the square motors are very good for tool sharpening for lathe bits. I've even used a Dremel to help get the chip breaker cut in or polish a radius.
 
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