Need help with my Tail Stock

[Stan the Man]

Hell to all,
I need some help fellas, I have a Smithy 3-1 first generation 13x39. I am turning to this forum as I have always received good information here and in my reading I understand that Smithy will no longer support any of its first generation machines.

I wanted to install my boring bar into the tail stock mandrel and when I retracted the mandrel, the currently mounted Morse Taper drill chuck shaft didn't release as it used to. I took the hole assembly out of the Tail Stock housing and looking as best I can into the end of the assembly I apparently neglected to put the grub screw into the body of the drill chuck shaft which facilitates easy removal, and now its bound up tight. I attempted to use a rubber mallet at the base of the drill chuck and all that did is cause the chuck to pop off the other end of the shaft.

So my question if not already apparent is how do I free up the two tapered pieces. (Drill chuck shank from the Tail stock sleeve).

1Looking at the photo. you see two machined bodies inner and outer which I presume are threaded both externally and internally respectively and that these two threaded bodies when assembles as in the picture are held in place by the machine screw and the two dimples at 10 and 2 o'clock.
2. then you have that hole at 6 o'clock which I am reasoning may have been a first attempt to create what you see at the 8 o'clock position, (machine screw threaded hole ) but went horribly wrong so they rotated the shaft and tried again.

My thought process says this is the way to go but before I attempt to take this apart I want a second opinion. I was thinking I would need to remove the machine screw, thread in an appropriate bolt with a nut to lock it against the inner assembly and then unscrew it from the outer housing, then tap out the drill chuck shaft.
I am sure I will fight the two dimples which are acting as locks.

Should I attempt all this and am successful does any one see any problems I might run into when reassembling the two threaded pieces because of the two dimples and should I use lock tight? If so which number lock tight or other locking product. Thanks for everyone's thoughts and suggestions. I need to fix this it's holding up another project. Stan

 

[extropic]

You should be able to touch the back of the chuck arbor through the hole (tail stock quill nut) pictured.
Clamp the TS quill in a vise between two pieces of wood (or soft jaws) and put a long punch or rod through the quill nut and to the bottom of the threaded hole in the chuck arbor. A good tap on the punch, with a hammer, should release the arbor.

Edit:
The procedure you described is overly complex and a bad idea.

I assume you want to be able to use your tailstock after the stuck arbor is removed. The normal operation is that, when you wind the hand wheel to fully retract the TS quill, the end of the quill drive screw extends far enough into the quill to contact the tang (or grub screw) on the end of the arbor and separate the tapers. If the arbor doesn't have a tang (or equivalent) there is nothing to contact the quill drive screw.

 

[Jim F]

Drive it out with a punch from the back side, as mentioned above.

 

[Stan the Man]

HI and thank you both, My little voice was saying don't take it apart yet ask for advise, Yes I want to be able to use the tailstock I want to be sure to rectify this problem so it returns back to the way you describe the proper function of the drive screw making contact with the grub screw. Thanks to Jim F for your impute as well Ill give it a go and let you know what happens.

 

[extropic]

HI and thank you both, My little voice was saying don't take it apart yet ask for advise, Yes I want to be able to use the tailstock I want to be sure to rectify this problem so it returns back to the way you describe the proper function of the drive screw making contact with the grub screw. Thanks to Jim F for your impute as well Ill give it a go and let you know what happens.

There are a lot of those machines around and a lot of chips have been cut with them, however . . .

They are built to sell at a low price point and the manufacturer cuts every possible corner to keep manufacturing cost as low as he can while still being able sell the machine. My point is, if you take things apart, you don't know what you're going to find and it might be a significant project to get it back into working order. If it isn't broken, don't fix it. If that is your primary machine tool, what are you going to use to fix it?

I agree with your choice to ask first. Keep listening to that little voice. LOL

 

[Stan the Man]

Hi all, the little voice told me take a picture and poste it so here it is, I was successful and got a new soft jaw cover for my vise in the deal.

thank you for your help and advise. Stan.



.

 

[Jim F]

Now put a SHCS in that arbor.

 

[Stan the Man]

Not sure what a SHCS stands for but I did find the grub screw that belonged in it and it is working properly again.

 

[Jim F]

Not sure what a SHCS stands for but I did find the grub screw that belonged in it and it is working properly again.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

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[stupoty]

Not sure what a SHCS stands for but I did find the grub screw that belonged in it and it is working properly again.

Socket Head Cap Screw



Stu