Need drawing of counter-shaft for 101-27430 lathe

Thanks for all of the info - Being suspicious, I checked the bearings on my countershaft and found that someone had used a regular bronze bushing. Price has gone up a few pennies, but will be ordering a set of replacement Oilite bearings in the next day or so. May replace the shaft also as it appears someone ran it without the key at some point and tried (and failed) to hold the pulley with the set screw!
 
Should these have a key? Mine did not have one, although the shaft is cut for one. I've found conflicting information on whether there should be a key. Seems is the shaft is cut for one, it should be used.
 
Should these have a key? Mine did not have one, although the shaft is cut for one. I've found conflicting information on whether there should be a key. Seems is the shaft is cut for one, it should be used.
The various parts breakdowns show the shaft with and without a #3 woodruff key. The shaft on mine has the keyset and the pulley has a matching keyway but didn't have a key installed. The shaft looked like someone chucked it up and tried to turn it with a dull tool. Short story - a key went back in.
 
The way I've made those shafts is to make the shaft without any flats and assemble it. Tighten the setscrews just enough to mark the shaft, then dissasemble it and cut the flats where the marks are. My exprecience with Atlas Craftsman machines is that they didn't use many keys, mostly flats and setscrews for those shafts.
 
It appears that early shafts had flats. Later ones had Woodruff keys. Apparently, someone finally wised up to the fact that a shaft with a flat and a pulley, wheel, etc. with a set screw will work fine so long as the set screw remains tight. But if the set screw gets a little bit loose, it will start to wallow out the flat. And eventually it will ruin the shaft. Whereas a shaft and a pulley with a key and set screw may move end to end but so long as it is caught before the pulley runs completely off of the key, it won't hurt anything. Flats are OK for collars (which are in any case, usually too thin for a key) but not for pulleys and gears.
 
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