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My lathe is turning a taper
- Thread starter Pcmaker
- Start date
- Joined
- May 27, 2016
- Messages
- 3,479
Great that you got it to something like good!
You did not specifically mention it, and I guess it seems obvious, but I am assuming you first cut away the bar a little deeper between the measure regions near the ends, so that during the final measure cuts, you could move the carriage from from one end to the other without needing to back out the cross slide, and then set it back.
- Joined
- Jun 12, 2018
- Messages
- 724
I didn't cut between, but that's because I have a DRO. I zeroed the scratch passes each time on my DRO
- Joined
- May 27, 2016
- Messages
- 3,479
OK to have cool stuff like that. So long as the measurements of the ends came close, you got there!
I have to admit a retro-fit DRO is one of my ambitions, but getting my whole kit together comes first.
It occurs to me that if the DRO cut depth measures relative to the saddle, this experience also works to provide a "proof in passing" that it was all about the tailstock, and that the ways alignment was always OK.
Had there been a "ways twist" or some headstock misalignment with the ways, it might have driven you mad!
- Joined
- Jun 12, 2018
- Messages
- 724
I'm going to check it again when I get home. I have OCD when it comes to things like this.
Also, I had Precision Matthews install my DRO when I bought my lathe from them. I learned this the hard way when I bought my mill and decided to get the DRO later on. It works, but you can tell it's been zombified, self tapping screws and all.
Also, I had Precision Matthews install my DRO when I bought my lathe from them. I learned this the hard way when I bought my mill and decided to get the DRO later on. It works, but you can tell it's been zombified, self tapping screws and all.