My first Bridgeport

JB should work fine. Spend some time and make a metal cover that looks goodish, and leave it in place to stop the patch from popping off. 16-18 ga sheetmetal is fairly easy to beat into submission!
Firstram-

Where do I lube the ram and other moving parts of the neck?

Thanks!
 
There are no lube points there. Loosen and cycle the oil in the best you can or disassemble, clean and lube if necessary. Just cleaning the exposed areas and cycling the ram will help, it did with mine.
 
There are no lube points there. Loosen and cycle the oil in the best you can or disassemble, clean and lube if necessary. Just cleaning the exposed areas and cycling the ram will help, it did with mine.
Oil or grease? Well you said oil so.

Thanks!
 
OIL for sure! Grease is the Devil on sliding machine parts
Firstram-

Much obliged. I'll pull the ram and clean it when I take the head off to replace the busted adjustment bolt. I'm thinking I'll use H&M's head stand for that - I guess it's heavy enough to withstand the top-heavy head trying to fall over- And the price is right.
 
As already pointed out, no oilers on the ram, just brush a little way oil in the dovetails and and give it a slide through its range every now and then. When you pull the ram, be very careful if using the lift eye( if it has one on it ). Take the eye out and inspect it, and the threads in the ram casting to be sure they're in good shape. And be see that the eye is threaded well into the hole, and the shoulder is seated against the mating surface. Granted, you're not lifting the entire mill with it, but still a good practice to get into. Never trust a lift point you didn't inspect/install yourself. And personally, I never use lifting hardware with "Made in China" on it. Much prefer seeing Crosby USA on the forging.
 
As already pointed out, no oilers on the ram, just brush a little way oil in the dovetails and and give it a slide through its range every now and then. When you pull the ram, be very careful if using the lift eye( if it has one on it ). Take the eye out and inspect it, and the threads in the ram casting to be sure they're in good shape. And be see that the eye is threaded well into the hole, and the shoulder is seated against the mating surface. Granted, you're not lifting the entire mill with it, but still a good practice to get into. Never trust a lift point you didn't inspect/install yourself. And personally, I never use lifting hardware with "Made in China" on it. Much prefer seeing Crosby USA on the forging.
Akjeff - thanks for the tips - I'll be lifting the turret off of the machine without the head on so even though it's going to be a lot lighter, it'll still be extremely heavy and nothing puts the sorete in the punch bowl like dropping one of these things - I'm quite certain of that.

Has anyone used one of those head-removal tools that H&W sells - I'm going to buy one but it would be nice to hear they're just the ticket when removing the head... Can you safely rotate the head after removal while the weight of the machine is supported by the spindle?

Thanks!
Mike
 
It looks like that head removal tool is meant to be solidly bolted to the table( or some other suitable surface ) at all times. That is going to be one very top heavy object. You definitely won't be rotating the head while using it. I'd consider pulling the motor first as well, and get rid of as much weight as possible. I would not allow it to be free standing for any reason.
 
It looks like that head removal tool is meant to be solidly bolted to the table( or some other suitable surface ) at all times. That is going to be one very top heavy object. You definitely won't be rotating the head while using it. I'd consider pulling the motor first as well, and get rid of as much weight as possible. I would not allow it to be free standing for any reason.
Strap it to the four corners of the table after removal?
 
Well I've taken Firstram's suggestion and gone with the reinforced JB Weld solution - please put down your beer first so you don't spill it laughing...

DDGO7525.JPG
Where I started...


IMG_1022.JPG
IMG_1023.JPG


IMG_1024.JPG

IMG_1025.JPG

IMG_1026.JPG

What you see in the last pictures is of course a surrogate bolt - I used shoe polish as a release agent and plan to go back out there this evening when JB is the consistency of hard putty and trim off the excess. What you see around the perimeter of the patch is silicone sealer to keep JB from leaking out the open edges of the bottom.

Should be hard enough tomorrow to try to remove the bolt.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top