My blunder was buying JASCO Semi-Paste Premium Paint & Epoxy Remover (Non-Methylene Chloride Formula)

[7milesup]

I have had excellent luck using this stuff.

Sunnyside® Back to Nature® Ready-Strip™ Pro-Strength Paint Remover - 1 gal.

Sunnyside® Back to Nature® Ready-Strip® Color-Changing Pro-Strength Paint Remover is the contractor version of Ready-Strip®. It changes color to let you know when the paint or varnish is ready for removal and can remove up to ten layers in a single application using a stripping tool...

www.menards.com

 

[Eddyde]

I have used a hot, concentrated, Lye solution. It worked very well. Only inconvenience is you need to immerse the part in the solution for an hour or so, but it's so cheap to make it really isn't a big issue. Lye based oven cleaner also works but not quite as well. Be sure to wear heavy gloves and a face shield as it can easily burn of blind you!

 

[pontiac428]

NMP (n methyl pyrolidone) is horrible to the body and a reproductive hazard, but it's the next best thing to our beloved MeCl. Sunnyside uses the word nature a lot, but they are a chemical company first and foremost. So there's a recommendation and a caution for ya.

 

[RaisedByWolves]

Oven cleaner is a popular paint stripper with model makers. Nasty stuff to work with (so are most paint strippers), but it does a good job taking paint off.

At least it used to, I haven't tried it in the past 10 years or so, so possible that it has also been neutered.

It sucks now.

Tried it last year and it just wasn’t the same as back in the day.

I found the wife cad a nos can of easy off stashed away and it worked just like I remembered.

Gasket remover was a good one too back in the day.

 

[pontiac428]

It sucks now.

Tried it last year and it just wasn’t the same as back in the day.

Easy Off in the yellow can is still the good stuff- sodium hydroxide. Temperature and contact time are the driving factors. It seems to work better on roughed-up paint than high gloss, and may take more than one shot, but it will break the enamel and do the job.

Easy Off in the blue can is not going to touch paint, but it is a fantastic degreaser. I use it for a first step with a pressure wash when rebuilding engines and transmissions, it cuts through 10 years of road grime. Also good for oil caked machine tools.

 

[RaisedByWolves]

Easy Off in the yellow can is still the good stuff- sodium hydroxide. Temperature and contact time are the driving factors. It seems to work better on roughed-up paint than high gloss, and may take more than one shot, but it will break the enamel and do the job.

Easy Off in the blue can is not going to touch paint, but it is a fantastic degreaser. I use it for a first step with a pressure wash when rebuilding engines and transmissions, it cuts through 10 years of road grime. Also good for oil caked machine tools.

I made a huge boo boo in trying to strip my Steinel mill as someone for whatever reason used a whitish house paint or some crap at one time, the easy off soaked into that layer and now I hate life.

Paint just peels now as it gets no traction on that layer.

 

[pontiac428]

I made a huge boo boo in trying to strip my Steinel mill as someone for whatever reason used a whitish house paint or some crap at one time, the easy off soaked into that layer and now I hate life.

Paint just peels now as it gets no traction on that layer.

Eek! Probably a compatibility problem. Might have to strip down to steel and start again, something that is so much easier said than done. If it's got a glaze layer of bondo-like stuff, maybe acrylic-based adhesion promoter mixed into the paint may help. I used Kleen-Strip Bulldog brand adhesion promoter on my lathe, and I feel all warm n' smug with the results. Between that and the isocyanate enamel hardener, the paint is definitely good for the long haul. The oil based enamels are not that picky about surface prep, either. It takes a while to cure, but nothing's peeling off of nuthin'. Something worth keeping in mind if you decide to give your Steinel another go.