Must Have Mill Machine Accessories For A Beginner?

I have a couple of the Enco aprons that I bought for under $5.00 that I got with a free shipping order. They've been fine for my needs. I don't think I could buy the material for that price. Besides:

185/5=37

So they'd either have to be 37 times better or last 37 times as long. I don't know how you'd determine if it were 37 times better. I do know that I am not likely to last for the 37 times as long.
 
wachuko said:
I do not have a lathe guys... can't make those cool tools in my garage... I am just starting here... :)
Click to expand...

Ah, but you have a mill. And presumably you've got a file, a hacksaw, a vise, and a bench in your garage. You absolutely can make cool tools, very nice tools, in your garage! Start with that spindle square as I suggested — a lathe absolutely isn't mandatory. I've seen people with serious physical handicaps make things out of metal that you wouldn't believe — with nothing more than a file and a home-made wooden vise.

It's a safe bet that you'll eventually buy a lathe if you stick with the hobby long enough, but you really can make amazing things just with just a benchtop vertical mill and a few hand tools.

At the risk of sounding like some crotchety old-timer,* I've learned at least two things after many years of collecting tools and making sawdust and metal swarf:
  1. Be very wary of any advice you receive from random strangers on the internet.
  2. Never, ever, blame your tools (or lack thereof).
Always figure out a way to use the tools you already have (even if you have to redesign the part) before buying a new tool. If you convince yourself you just can't proceed without some specific tool, try building a makeshift version first (if nothing else, you'll know what matters when you do purchase the new tool). When people seeing my shop for the first time ask me what I make, I used to answer "ukuleles and guitars" (or "sawdust"). Now I usually answer, "I make tools, machines, and parts for tools and machines."

It always seems like rule 2 is given by people like myself with an entire shop full of very nice tools, but it really is a universal truth. Within reason, the tools you own shouldn't dictate which projects you undertake — learning to perform operations without a new tool absolutely will make you a better craftsman. For what it's worth, it took me about 30 years to realize the wisdom in this.

With respect to the spindle square, the only operation that "requires" a lathe is turning a round tenon and shoulder on the end of the drill rod. Everything else would normally be done on a vertical mill (squaring the base part and boring the holes). You can use a hacksaw to cut the slits.

A couple ideas for how to get around this "requirement":

- Spend three bucks on high-speed-steel lathe tool, and try turning on your mill! Hold the lathe tool fixed in the vice, and turn the part in your spindle. You'll probably have to cobble together some sort of "steady rest" to prevent too much deflection of a 6" piece of 1/2" drill rod held in a collet, but with enough time and effort I'd bet this would suffice.

- Modify the design. Use a 1/2" end mill to bore a precisely sized (and perpendicular) hole for the drill rod in the base, then just super-glue the drill rod in place.

The only other operation that needs a tool is tapping the holes for the cap screws. These days you can pick up a tap at the hardware store for a couple bucks, but even that isn't truly a requirement. You can make a serviceable tap in a pinch simply by filing a groove in a longer bolt of the same size.

This is sounding like a sermon, but I really mean it. Tool collecting is great fun (we all share the affliction) but don't let the lack of a tool or machine prevent you from taking on a project!

Don't get me wrong, though: buy the best tools you can possibly afford (go without until you can afford the good ones!). For me, nothing is more enjoyable than using a well-made tool for its intended purpose. This goes for tools I've made myself as well as for commercial tools. It's hard to believe that anyone could get too excited by a tap wrench, socket wrench, or hex driver bits, but after many years of getting by with box-shop crapware, I still get a little thrill every time I touch my Starrett, Wera, and Chapman tools. It took me 25 years to get enough gumption to spend that much on a freaking tap wrench, but man oh man is it ever more pleasant to use! Now that I've used a good one, I'll be making my own in the other sizes I need. Don't get me started on my favorite home-made spokeshaves and planes.... Good tools contain a special kind of magic that rubs off on you when you use them. Sometimes you have to get by with cheap tools for several years to fully appreciate this magic, but it's there.

Regards,
--
Rex

* I'm pretty new to machining and metalworking myself, so I can hardly be considered an old hand. But I was born during the Kennedy administration. In the words of Al Capp (or was it Walt Kelly?): "Yesterday I couldn't spell it. Today I are one."
 
Last edited:
wachuko said:
Is this the mount for the dial test indicator?
Click to expand...

Yes, this style is to mount your indicators on the quill of your mill. This is also something you can build rather than buy (as Mike and Will have shown!). For some operations, you can also just hold the mounting shaft on the indicator in a collet, but often you'll want the indicator well outside of the central spindle axis (when tramming, for instance).

Assuming imperial and not metric, your dial indicators will have a 3/8" mounting shaft as well as maybe a lug on the back for other types of mounting. Dial test indicators (DTI) will either have a 3/8" mounting shaft, a 5/32" mounting shaft, or a dovetail mount. The piece that clamps onto the mounting shafts of your indicator is called a "snug." In my shop they are usually called the "G*$^!#@# M&*^#@(& snugs!" I hate them (and I'm pretty sure they are why the higher end DTIs have gone to dovetail mounts).

Anyway, in theory you should be able to move your indicators from your mag base, to your quill-mount, to your surface-gauge without grief. In my shop I've tried to standardize on 3/8" mounting shafts to make this easier, but I've got a really serious hate relationship going on with the various snugs that came with my cheaper tools. Eventually, I think I'll have to build my own. As usual, the more you spend, the better you get. None of my DTIs have a dovetail mount, but I'm beginning to think it's time for me to convert over.
--
Rex
 
Didn't see slotted angle plate, they're nice when you have something that won't clamp well in the vice. Especially when you have a couple Kant-twist clamps. Both are in the hot deals flyer often. As a side note I have a 6" rotary table, wouldn't want smaller.

Dave
 
dave2176 said:
Didn't see slotted angle plate, they're nice when you have something that won't clamp well in the vice. Especially when you have a couple Kant-twist clamps. Both are in the hot deals flyer often. As a side note I have a 6" rotary table, wouldn't want smaller.

Dave
Click to expand...

Dave, not sure I know which one you are recommending... there are slotted and slotted all the way through.... I will look for photos or videos of these in use to see what they work best on... thank you for the recommendation.

On the initial search, I did come across this video which I found interesting...granted, these are not slotted... these are with holes...


And comparing USA made blocks... this was interesting... I need to see if this applies to the ones I ordered... Edit - sure enough...mine are made in China so just like those imports he shows in the video... o_O

 
Last edited:
This may have already been suggested, but I would add R-8 End Mill holders (3/8, 1/2, 5/8, and 3/4 ) to the list. Unlike R-8 collets, they have set screws that lock your end mill and keep it from spinning as in a collet. I have used collets with my end mills but they will spin sometimes -- Ruins your collet as well as your day -- Jack
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top