MT2 Holder stuck in taper

[woodchucker]

I got this holder from the pass around box a year or so ago. I have used it twice without issue. So it's not the holder. Something has caused this holder to lock up in the taper. I used it the other day for a small keyway in a shaft.

I broke the draw bar trying to get it out. On the Clausing I have, there is a topper on top of the quill, that forces the holders to eject from the taper. Well, due to it being locked up it twisted the square drive off. Then I couldn't get the topper off. Heat and a monkey wrench finally did get the topper off of it. A pin spanner would not.

I can't drive the holder out. I have tried using brute force, nothing. I don't have a large enough hydraulic press to fit the head and quill, it's a homemade benchtop press, so not enough headroom.

I am thinking about ice cold water on the holder but am worried that sweat may cause it to rust and lock up in there.

One thought I have had is to turn some steel and make a bearing type clamp, but make it so that it acts like a jacob chuck separator.

I am looking for suggestions. I hope pounding on a shaft didn't ruin my bearings.

 

[Eddyde]

Yeah, some sort of wedge type separator sounds like your best bet. Maybe try some penetrating oil from above and let it sit a day or so.

 

[woodchucker]

If I had the mill, I could simply make wedges like a jacobs wedge, but with this stuck, and no drawbar right now, and a small holder, not one of my larger 3/8 or 1/2 holders, it's tough. If I do like a bearing type of wedge puller as a separator, I'm wondering if I use dowel pins to keep alignment and just use a clamp to pull it closed, or just use screws to pull it closed and let the screws do the alignment.

Also there is not much room between the holder and quill.. 1/8 inch if that.

 

[C-Bag]

Do you think a tie rod pickle fork would get in there? Or a clamshell puller with a plate with a hole the size of the quill to push against casting with the bolts in the clamshell? Or a shaft down the quill with the Jack from your bench press? Many ways, but all kinda scary…..

 

[RJSakowski]

I guess I'm confused here. A Morse taper is a locking taper and force applied from machining operations and/or a drawbar can seat it well but I have never had a situation where it couldn't be released.

I have an MT2 taper and a drawbar to retain it for my lathe. To release the taper, I loosen the drawbar a couple of turns and tap the end of the drawbar. If that is your setup, I would just reinstall the drawbar, and give it a sharp rap with a hammer. Make sure that the drawbar engages several threads to prevent damage to the MT2 holder. If the drawbar is damaged beyond use, a length of steel bar should also work. Just use a bar of larger diameter than the drawbar threads. 1/2" or 9/16" should work fine.

 

[woodchucker]

Do you think a tie rod pickle fork would get in there? Or a clamshell puller with a plate with a hole the size of the quill to push against casting with the bolts in the clamshell? Or a shaft down the quill with the Jack from your bench press? Many ways, but all kinda scary…..

I can't find my tie rod fork. I just tried my ball joint fork, too big (too wide) and won't seat on the one tine... so off to HF. great idea, why didn't I think of it. I know after I buy a new tie rod fork, I'll find the old one I haven't used in 40 years.

 

[woodchucker]

I guess I'm confused here. A Morse taper is a locking taper and force applied from machining operations and/or a drawbar can seat it well but I have never had a situation where it couldn't be released.

I have an MT2 taper and a drawbar to retain it for my lathe. To release the taper, I loosen the drawbar a couple of turns and tap the end of the drawbar. If that is your setup, I would just reinstall the drawbar, and give it a sharp rap with a hammer. Make sure that the drawbar engages several threads to prevent damage to the MT2 holder. If the drawbar is damaged beyond use, a length of steel bar should also work. Just use a bar of larger diameter than the drawbar threads. 1/2" or 9/16" should work fine.

Yea, it's never happened before. I have had some seat pretty tight. This one is locked in. And no tapping it (brute force) is not releasing it. I don't know why. I used it only a few days ago. I made a tap and cut flutes (keys) in it and it was light duty. The only thing I can think of is that it may have been cold (the holder) when I put it in, and either it expanded or sweated and is siezed on. The butterfly impact was set to medium so I don't think it over tightened it.

 

[DAT510]

To release the taper, I loosen the drawbar a couple of turns and tap the end of the drawbar. If that is your setup, I would just reinstall the drawbar, and give it a sharp rap with a hammer.

+1

The "impact" of a hammer (in my case brass) has always worked to pop tapers loose.

 

[RJSakowski]

IIRC, the wedges used to pop a Jacobs chuck are inserted from opposite sides to balance the force. The pockle fork wouldn't Also you will have to drive the fork in which will present a shock to the bearings. I would make a couple of wedges and drive them in with moderate force to create a preload. Then I would try driving the taper out from above. the combination of the shock and the preload will often work to pop the taper. I use this method for stubborn tie rod ends that won't yield to the fork alone.

Before dong all that, I would get some dry ice and make up a slurry of dry ice in acetone. and insert your holder into it The temperature change may be enough to pop the taper by itself. If not, tapping with the drawbar or a steel bar would most likely do the job. I wouldn't worry about condensation as once removed, the socket and taper can quickly be brought to room temperature and dried.

 

[DAT510]

Here's what Jacobs Wedges look like.