[How do I?] Moving a lathe

[Toolmaker51]

Some desperation there. Looks like relined barrel [brazed? yikes]. Far as the pipe wrench marks, well . . .
Picture looks like curved lugs? Measure the apparent angles and mill duplication. Dress remaining corner/s/ carefully with brand new single cut file, then hardwood with wet-or-dry. No one will ever know.
Few things done right are short cuts, just altered processes. Neither one of us want to buy a profiler doing it how they did!
In case they are true radii, it's a lathe job, one side at a time, offset in a four jaw.
You could practice that with wood blocks. Barrels co$t, lot$.

 

[MilsurpMonkey]

Very true. The bore was left alone, and a chamber conversion was brazed in. It’s a mess. I’m sure I’ll need a lot of practice before I ever get the actual blank for this one near the lathe.


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[Toolmaker51]

All of us run into "How am I going to...?".
I usually sketch until potential solution appears. It might take more, or take off into calculations.
Now that I think about it, kind of like artists drawing human figures, starting with ellipse's.

 

[Toolmaker51]

<snipped>...sizers had long 1/4“ stainless rods that had flaps on them for letting the fruit down gently to conveyors. They were always getting bent from bad maintenance so we’d cut them up into 4” long pieces and keep a stack of them in our field boxes. We would roll 10,000lb+ sizer sections with those little rods under the channels pushing and herding with 6’ bars with just 2 guys. Of course the first thing we did was sweep the floor and get rid of the dirt and debris.

I don't have any 1/4" rods.
Hows a bundle of Foosball axles sound, OK? Would like additional set, one table nets three different lengths.
Debris makes solid rollers hesitant, smaller diameters worsen it. Same reason buckboards and Conestoga wagons had BIG wheels!

 

[C-Bag]

You not having any 1/4 rod around is hard to believe knowing your extensive shop and equipment. I get the debris thing that’s why step 1 was sweep the area. But there was no way I was going to get a usable chunk of a peeler in my hand carried tool box on an airplane, as much as I’d like to.

I believe the peeler is a viable plan especially if it’s rough and heaven forbid you have to go across dirt or grass. My only reason for bringing it up was under the right circumstances like having channel welded to the legs and smooth concrete we moved huge heavy machines with just 1/4”x4” rods. Just more info for the OP to mull over in his quest to join the ranks of lathe owners. YMMV.

 

[Toolmaker51]

C-Bag post #25......You not having any 1/4 rod around is hard to believe knowing your extensive shop and equipment. I get the debris thing that’s why step 1 was sweep the area. But there was no way I was going to get a usable chunk of a peeler. . .
I do have space and iron, not so much spare material. All the rolling stuff is fall off remnants.
Agreed, no dispute. I was pointing out the endless variety of round stuff, if we keep our eyes open. Drawback to peelers is height needed to get on them, but once first is in a little teetering does the rest. Borrowing a wood lathe, I'll spin a couple 10 and 25% smaller to ease that. They are THE bomb skidding off a pallet as is. OMMV.
Mileage increases with every move IYKWIM.

 

[MilsurpMonkey]

Well, as life does, the lathe was back burnered for a bit. I appreciate all the input guys, it finally came home today!

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[Toolmaker51]

Well, if wheel dollies aren't machinery skates, i don't know what is!

Rigger tip. Lathes have notoriously top heavy center of gravity [remedied by 4x4 spreaders]. Secondly, lathes being heaviest at headstock, SOP is to lock tailstock and carriage to right end of ways. On skates, while somewhat moot, but good practice breed good habits.

Otherwise a nice little lathe. For what I see, one distinct feature not always found even in commercial shops; separate feed and lead screws. Also approve of decently spaced control levers. Nothing more irritating, those certain knuckle busting import lathe shaped objects.

 

[MilsurpMonkey]

Well, if wheel dollies aren't machinery skates, i don't know what is!

Rigger tip. Lathes have notoriously top heavy center of gravity [remedied by 4x4 spreaders]. Secondly, lathes being heaviest at headstock, SOP is to lock tailstock and carriage to right end of ways. On skates, while somewhat moot, but good practice breed good habits.

Otherwise a nice little lathe. For what I see, one distinct feature not always found even in commercial shops; separate feed and lead screws. Also approve of decently spaced control levers. Nothing more irritating, those certain knuckle busting import lathe shaped objects.

Should be a decent little lathe once up and going. The lathe ended up lag bolted to the 4x4s for transport and positioning, I was pleasantly surprised at how stable that was. I was afraid I’d have to guide it in with an engine hoist to keep it upright and moving easily. Now I just need to figure out how to rewire for 110 and a new drum switch. Level is on its way to get the ways aligned. Getting excited to start making chips!


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[Toolmaker51]

If it's 3 phase, "re-wiring" won't cut it alone. A phase converter or motor swap will though, if 3 ph save that for later.
If a single phase motor, it's near certain to be dual voltage. You'll get better performance at 220 than 110, and its already a household circuit.
If still on the 4x4's move tailstock and carriage to the right and jack the headstock down first, close to intended spot. Then set them to the left. Swinging other end will be far easier.