Morse Taper Slipping between Drill Chuck and Tailstock

Interesting, I assumed all mt had tangs. I know my mt4 tail stock does.
What’s the limit on an mt4?
1” on a mt1? Eeeech.

some one had mentioned a while ago that the tangs are uncommon on lathes , I have no tang slot on my MT3 tail stock.

I tend to tap the end of the drill with a soft hammer to make sure they are seated (not tiny ones) :)
 
Maybe I'm the crazy one here, but I've drilled a 1" hole in steel (1/4" starter hole) on my lathe using a silver and deming bit going into an MT2 taper. I had no slippage at the taper and it cut beautifully. The only issue was the keyless drill chuck got so tight it required a strap wrench to open it up.

If I am going to be cutting hard, I'll seat the taper with a nice whack from a deadblow.
 
The tang is NOT for anti-rotation, but is for being able to remove the drill. You should seat a MT2 device with a smart push into the socket. Before you do this on your lathe, BE SURE THAT YOUR TAILSTOCK CAN EJECT YOUR DRILL BEFORE YOU SEAT IT!!! A Morse taper needs to extend beyond the small diameter end to engage the ejecting projection. If it doesn't, you will have to disassemble your tailstock to remove the drill.
 
Standard range for MT
#1 - up to 1/2"
#2 - 1/2" to 3/4"
#3 - 3/4" to 1"
#4 - 1" to 1-1/2"

That larger than standard drills exist in various MTs is not proof it's good practice to use them. One may buy 1" round shank drills to use in a 1/2" chuck, but it's not best science.

I have a friend with a decent quality Taiwan lathe who has damaged the holding power of the tailstock by repeatedly drilling oversize holes with a 1/2" chuck in the #2MT. We're going to have to buy a reamer to clean it up enough to hold as it did when new.

jack vines
 
Standard range for MT
#1 - up to 1/2"
#2 - 1/2" to 3/4"
#3 - 3/4" to 1"
#4 - 1" to 1-1/2"

That larger than standard drills exist in various MTs is not proof it's good practice to use them. One may buy 1" round shank drills to use in a 1/2" chuck, but it's not best science.

I have a friend with a decent quality Taiwan lathe who has damaged the holding power of the tailstock by repeatedly drilling oversize holes with a 1/2" chuck in the #2MT. We're going to have to buy a reamer to clean it up enough to hold as it did when new.

jack vines

Thanks for sharing that information! Did you have a source you used to find this? I'd like to look up more info.
 
Super helpful responses! I do appreciate it.
 
That's useful information but the source, in the USA, is ASME B94.11m-1993. You can purchase a copy here.

ISO 3291:2016 is the standard elsewhere. Both specs are probably functionally interchangeable regarding taper shank drills.
 
In my experience, on a suboptimal set up like a normal lathe with some wear, the practical values are less. I'd rather be careful than ruin my tailstock. Just my view. As I said, I've seen some ruined tailstocks that needed replacement of the quill or re-reaming to get them to work again.

-Most of my MT#2 drills are in the 1/4 - 3/8 range. I think I have a 7/16 one. My MT#3 drills used to max out at 5/8. I just acquired a 15/16" MT drill to do some aluminum for a project.
 
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