More threads

[Nigel123]

I’m waiting for my thread mic to arrive so I can really give this a go!


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Threads look good now you have the hang of it try threading to fit with a nut
You can use the formula 0.75/tpi for 30 deg or 0.742/tpi for 29 deg until the thread mic arrives
After all those nice looking threads deserve a mate
Mic should arrive soon my set shows they scanned at Winnepeg

 

[royesses]

Yes that is how it is done, the file gets rid of the sliver threads.

Thanx for that John. Always appreciated when a pro machinist confirms a procedure.

Roy

 

[rock_breaker]

Nice looking threads! No doubt you will be able to cut threads to specification with your micrometer.
Have a good day
Ray

 

[Z2V]

This is my threads for the day,

it mates to this,

Yep, I enjoy cutting threads also.

 

[macardoso]

Looking great! I agree that you are ready to starting threading to a spec! It'll teach you that threading creates a lot of force and tends to flex your stock. Makes it hard to avoid taper. Try out all your measuring tools. Don't be afraid to use wires and get good with them. You'll definitely need to use them when you can't use the thread mic.

A fine cut sharp file or some scotchbrite will finish your threads. If you want super clean and accurate thread forms right off the machine, there are "full profile" inserts that cut the thread and the crest (and abutment radius between them) all at the same time. Expensive to go and buy one of every size when you don't need them, but know they exist.

 

[machPete99]

Question on the OP nd the example threading pictured...
I do not see a thread-stop area. Are you threading to the right here?
Otherwise how do stop at an exact location, unless your lathe has a special "eject" feature here?
Thanks!

 

[DavidR8]

Question on the OP nd the example threading pictured...
I do not see a thread-stop area. Are you threading to the right here?
Otherwise how do stop at an exact location, unless your lathe has a special "eject" feature here?
Thanks!

I used the thread tool to cut the gutter so it sort of looks like there's no gutter. I am pretty quick at disengaging the half-nuts though and so far have not over-shot the gutter.

 

[ErichKeane]

I used the thread tool to cut the gutter so it sort of looks like there's no gutter. I am pretty quick at disengaging the half-nuts though and so far have not over-shot the gutter.

I tend to do the same, I 'stop' in the same place (I go at a really slow RPM, typically ~18-30) and use a dial indicator for my 'stop'. I disengage aggressively and end up cutting the gutter as I cut (then let it go around a time or two each thread). This ends up making the cutter the same depth as the threads.

Sometimes I'll use a tool to cut the gutter separately, but I haven't really found the need if I'm good enough at stopping.

 

[DavidR8]

Eeek! I just thought about this and realized that I cut that at 244 RPM. It's 32 TPI

 

[ErichKeane]

Eeek! I just thought about this and realized that I cut that at 244 RPM. It's 32 TPI

Yikes! You're a braver man than I! I cut at about the slowest speed I can get. That said, I cut with HSS which is much more forgiving at slow speeds.