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- Thread starter Pinenut57
- Start date
[GALLERY=][/GALLERY]
Ok you shamed me into it. Here are some pic's of my newest toys. I've ordered a 4" wheel for the TPG and will order the belt Monday. The TPG is a Themac 30J so I'm open to any and all information on it. I have to order a 7/16 clamping set and a 3 jaw chuck for the rotary table. I think Grizzly will be my best bet for that 
Ok you shamed me into it. Here are some pic's of my newest toys. I've ordered a 4" wheel for the TPG and will order the belt Monday. The TPG is a Themac 30J so I'm open to any and all information on it. I have to order a 7/16 clamping set and a 3 jaw chuck for the rotary table. I think Grizzly will be my best bet for that 
Well, it USED TA BE that Little Machine Shop sold a DVDs from Swarf Rat Enterprises, that did a good job of showing how to use a rotary table (with dividing plates). Unfortunately, LMS doesn't offer it any more. -BUT- you can get it directly from Swarf Rat ($40):
http://www.swarfrat.com/TheRotaryTable.htm
About the best you can do from LMS right now is their part number 4649, "Basic uses for Dividing Instruments for the Mill." It's $25.
Themac still exists as a company. You can buy belts and parts from them. (edit,I see you have already found that out). You need the extra pulleys for it to get several different speeds.
VERY IMPORTANT: remember to NOT run the larger,3" or 4" wheels at the top speed. Run them at the lower speeds if you don't want them to violently blow up in your face. The high speeds are for the small size grinding points for internal grinding. They are held in a collet,which you do not seem to have. It is easy to forget how you have arranged the pulleys,so be alert before you switch on.
You do not have several of the necessary parts,including the wheel guard. I got mine new,but wanted a longer collet for grinding deeper holes. I made one. They screw on over the male thread on the end of the spindle. It is imperative that the collet runs dead nuts true. I got mine dead true by turning or grinding it in situ,but I can't recall how I did that. I drilled the hole for the grinding points last. No matter how true you turn them,they will not run true when going several thousand RPM. They have to be ground or turned down while running. Partially due to different density in the steel bar making them not run true at high speeds.
This can be dangerous,so be careful,and keep your face out of the path of trajectory the collet shaft will take if it lets go.
No doubt buying a new collet will be expensive(as all the other parts may be!) These units cost,depending upon size,over $2,000.00.
VERY IMPORTANT: remember to NOT run the larger,3" or 4" wheels at the top speed. Run them at the lower speeds if you don't want them to violently blow up in your face. The high speeds are for the small size grinding points for internal grinding. They are held in a collet,which you do not seem to have. It is easy to forget how you have arranged the pulleys,so be alert before you switch on.
You do not have several of the necessary parts,including the wheel guard. I got mine new,but wanted a longer collet for grinding deeper holes. I made one. They screw on over the male thread on the end of the spindle. It is imperative that the collet runs dead nuts true. I got mine dead true by turning or grinding it in situ,but I can't recall how I did that. I drilled the hole for the grinding points last. No matter how true you turn them,they will not run true when going several thousand RPM. They have to be ground or turned down while running. Partially due to different density in the steel bar making them not run true at high speeds.
This can be dangerous,so be careful,and keep your face out of the path of trajectory the collet shaft will take if it lets go.
No doubt buying a new collet will be expensive(as all the other parts may be!) These units cost,depending upon size,over $2,000.00.
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The 2" Shars boring head set I ordered is supposed to arrive today. I'm hoping I can use it to make a fairly large concave radius cut on a gizmo I'm milling from Delrin. I've seen it done on a uTube video where the guy was cutting about a 6" radius on an aluminum part. It looked very dangerous. My part requires a 2.625 concave radius. I'm hoping for half as dangerous.