Mobile Base For A Mill?

[Groundhog]

Although my mill is a lot smaller (table top Syil X4 CNC) this leveling idea might be of interest. I used 3 HF's short body mount 10 ton rams (1.75" tall). The rams are bolted to shim blocks as the ram travel is only 7/16". They are attached by hoses to a manifold made of 3 1/4" ball valves and brass nipples. Hidden in the left rear of the picture is a port-o-power screw-on coupler. To level the mill I open the desired valve and pump until it is at the level I need, then close the valve while still under pressure. When all three rams are where I want them I remove the port-o-power pump. I've left it untouched for more than a year with no leak down.

 

[Firestopper]

Paco,
Wow! That is one outstanding piece of art as Mark calls it!

• Who's casters did you use?
• Is that 4" angle? What is the wall thickness?
• How did you brake that steel plate for the caster mounts?

Thanks for posting all the detailed photos. I really like your use of the box/tubing sections for the gussets and the leveler supports. Really top notch work and a well thought out design.

Thanks for the compliment sir. As Mark chimed in on the castors, I can answer the material used and the breaking of the cold rolled flat bar (3/8" x 4").
The 4" angle is 3/8" thick and was notched on iron worker for a good weld joint. This type of notch provided an additional 2" of weld vs a miter joint. The castor brackets where broken using the iron worker as well. Once the limit switches are set, one simply insets the piece (squarely) and steps on the foot switch until the machine stops. I built a custom table and back gauge for the break making set up simple.


This photo shows the break on the iron worker. It shares the same station that would utilize the punch station.

The broken (bent) stack. I made four extra for the plate roller (comping soon....more like 9-12 months). The boxed section is 1/4"x2"x3". The miter was 22.5 degrees foe a parallel finish (to the floor).


The same section of rectangular tubing was used for the leveling feet. Four threaded spools where turned/threaded on the lathe and indexed into the holes of the brackets for welding.


Last photo shows a annular cutter used for a near perfect hole. These annular cutters can be used on the lathe with a tail stock arbor/adaptor. I also use them with a Mag drill as intended.

I had posted these (or some) in the POTD some time back so I will apologize in advance for those who's already seen these. I want folks to see different applications/options when it comes to material choice etc. Mark J has helped me and others so its only fitting to return the favor.

 

[Alan H.]

So I am blown away again Paco. You have some really fine fabrication equipment! More importantly you have the skill to go with it. Thanks for taking the time to post the photos and the details. It is big fun to have a look at your equipment.

 

[Subwayrocket]

That thing is a TANK ! I likey

 

[Firestopper]

Thanks gents, It all began when my new bride bought me a Makita 14" chop saw, 4" Makita grinder and a Millermatic 200 for Christmas in 1987. We where married Dec 21, 1987 so its cool to relate to what the "starter set" had grown to in 29 years, and the wife decided to keep me around
Merry Christmas

 

[tq60]

A pallet jack is the correct tool.

The carts in this thread are great looking work but proper materials would cost same as pallet jack and cart only good for mill.

Our BP is currently on a pallet of wood as is most everything else with plans on making a steel stand size of pallet.

The jack is 27 inches wide so best is a steel plate with channel that mill is bolted to then easy to lift and move as needed.

Our L&S is on wood stands that allow it to be moved with 2 jacks...

All machines can be moved with the jack or fork lift so build it once.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk

 

[Alan H.]

TQ, pallet jack is a good idea and I am glad you have space for it.

I would not want any of my equipment on wooden pallets. I want them rigid and level.

In my case it is not about cost. It's that I don't want another piece of equipment to store. I have 10 pounds of stuff in a 7 pound sack already and simply do not wish to have a pallet jack taking up floor space.

 

[tq60]

Wood is plenty strong and stable for a mill.

Our plan is someday make steel platforms with other add ons but that is money and time budgeted for other things.

Storing jack is issue but clever addresses that by having it go forks under a machine or bench.

3 2 X 4 as skids with 2 X 6 across the top with good screws makes for a very sound platform

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk

 

[Tim9]

I agree that wood is fine and a pallet jack plus wood bases...or pallets, are a good way to go. There is also an advantage to the wood when it comes to vibration on a mill. But I totally also agree that pallet jacks take up a lot of space. And if I had time and the motivation....I would much rather have dedicated rigid steel bases on all of my equipment.

 

[tq60]

We have 2 pallet jacks in our cluttered shop and neither one us in the way at all (that is the function of the other stuff we do not need piled in front of them) but one lives under our electrolysis rust machine (trash can, batteries and power plant built on a pallet like platform) and the other one is usually under the diesel tank or the racking in a corner.

In tight places they can go under a work bench that is cleverly placed as the forks are less than 4 inched tall when lowered so just the handle and jack need to be placed.

In a garage it is difficult but also building a machine specific platform capable of supporting 2000 pounds while moving also consumes floor space and resources as well.

If you build a roll platform do not go cheap on casters as they are critical.

Steel ones do not roll very well on anything but perfect concrete and larger diameter ones have higher lever action or moment of force against the mount requiring heavier frame.

Having adjustable feet made of say 5/8 all thread or good bolts would allow load to be removed from casters and reduce need for brakes.

The Carr above is great work by the way.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk