Mill Hold Down Step Block Set

Bob Korves said:
Te-co is about the best, but nowhere in the same ball park as $50. Gibraltar makes very nice hold down sets, still nowhere near $50, but way less than Te-co.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=730
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I have two of the Te-co sets and probably won't buy anything else (Maybe Gibraltar but no India or China sets unless I need something more "disposable"). For me, they were worth the extra money.

JMHO

-Ron
 
Be careful about running a tap through the T nuts. Some sets have hardened T nuts. I know because the set I have is hardened.
 
Billh50 said:
Be careful about running a tap through the T nuts. Some sets have hardened T nuts. I know because the set I have is hardened.
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Also, most T-nuts that come with the set are not tapped all the way through, they are tapped one or two threads short. This is to keep you from bottoming the stud in the T-slot. I have both, I bought a couple dozen that are tapped through so I could get a bolt through them. It just requires care in the setup, and make sure the bolts can not bottom.
 
I ponied up for the Made in USA Teco set, it was only $20 more than the Gibraltar. No issues with threads its made decent enough. You do get the plastic holder some website pics still show the steel holder. You don't want the steel anyways it rusts the plastic holder is just fine.
 
I bought a cheap MHC brand set when I first bought my mill. None of the T nuts fit my Bridgeport table and the flanged 1/2-13 nuts use a 22mm wrench size instead of the standard 7/8" common with the 1/2-13 sets. The studs and step blocks were fine but I replaced the flanged nuts and modified the T nuts.
 
Several years ago I bought a set from Little Machine Shop. It's worked well for me. LMS sells several sizes: 7/16" - #1144 - $49; ½" - #1268 - $49; ⅝" - 3667 - $50 and #4833 - $65. I'm not sure what's the difference between the last two - one says it's 52 piece, the other 58 piece, but the parts breakdown is the same. Probably best to phone and ask.

I've recently bought extra T-slot nuts and flange screws from CDCO. They've also worked well. The T-slot nuts are thru-tapped, so I used a center punch to upset the bottom end of the threaded hole.
 
I started making my own T nuts and am using Grade 8 bolts as suggested above. Pieces of scrap work well and oil quenching seems to toughen them up enough for my needs. And they always fit!! I'd like to think that keeping them softer than my table means that the nut will deform the table. Gotta watch the nuts and take them out of service if the threads begin to pull through. But, then I also need to ask myself if I'm getting them to tight. As identified above don't go all the way through.


Daryl
MN
 
JimDawson said:
Also, most T-nuts that come with the set are not tapped all the way through, they are tapped one or two threads short. This is to keep you from bottoming the stud in the T-slot. I have both, I bought a couple dozen that are tapped through so I could get a bolt through them. It just requires care in the setup, and make sure the bolts can not bottom.
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The ones with mine go all the way through and have been peened to stop the stud going throug.

They are also hardend i seem to remember that the hack saw didn't do much to the rods when i needed to cut them down to mont a vice.

I managed to cross thread one just the one turn and cleaning it up with a tap was a total pain.

Stuart
 
Thanks guys,
I decided to go for a machinist set of Te-co . This way I won't need to deal with he issue again. Enco had the best pricing and free shipping
 
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