Mill / bare steel maintenance?

MRogersII

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Good morning, All

Brief background: I have just started machining this year, having bought a PM-30 back in the spring. I have encountered a couple of issues that I am sure are simple matters to those of you who have years of metal shavings behind them. Nonetheless, they are currently important items to me and I would very much appreciate any help/guidance.

I would preface the questions by first saying that I work full-time and have children so my "shop time" usually occurs on weekends, with very little activity during the week. Projects that are in-process may sit for a week at a time.

1. With fairly long projects, involving several weeks of machining, what do you do with alloy steel to keep corrosion under control/ I have a project that has been underway for about a month and, even though I've been wiping the metal down with oil when I'm not there, it seems like each time I go back, the metal is darker and has more visible corrosion.

2. I have apparently made a mistake, and am now looking for a solution correcting it. When I bought my mill, I bought a large inventory of tooling from the family of a retired machinist. This included a couple of sets of parallels. I used one set of parallels on a small part project that took just over a week to finish. When I took the part out, apparently there was some level of surface rust on the parallel which it seems has transferred to the face of my mill vice jaws. This is an area that is about an 1/8" tall and maybe 2" wide. I worked the area with 0000 steel wool and oil but the discoloration is still there. I was concerned about trying a more aggressive removal, given the precision issue. I cant feel any surface damage but my B&S dial indicator shows about 1 or 2 0.0005" on the needle as it passes over it dialing in the vice. What should I do with this?

Thank you in advance for your time.

Michael
 
You might want to coat your vise and tools with way oil (Mobil Vactra #2 is good) when you are done with them. That being said, everything is going to get stains, dings, and dents over time. Try not to sweat it too much!
 
Get and use a dehumidifier for your shop space, also I note that some cutting fluids seem to stain also.
 
You might want to coat your vise and tools with way oil (Mobil Vactra #2 is good) when you are done with them. That being said, everything is going to get stains, dings, and dents over time. Try not to sweat it too much!
Yeah, sweat increases the humidity--- sweaty fingers can stain bright steel too.
 
Thank you all. I've been using the recommended oil ISO 68 Mystic (Tractor Supply) but if there is a better option, I am happy to switch.

Question, should I do more "polishing" on the mill vice to remove the rust, or no?

Thank you again

Michael
 
Thank you all. I've been using the recommended oil ISO 68 Mystic (Tractor Supply) but if there is a better option, I am happy to switch.

Question, should I do more "polishing" on the mill vice to remove the rust, or no?

Thank you again

Michael

Vise jaws are wear items and can be replaced when their useful life has passed. I would invent in precision ground toolroom stones (or a very fine india stone if on a budget. These will target any bumps that sit proud of the rest of the surface while leaving the precision surface intact. Steel wool or scotchbrite does little for the accuracy of the jaw and only adds to the speed of wear.
 
Thank you, Sir. Question, is there a better oil that I should be using? One with better rust prevention properties?

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I suggested the Mobil Vactra #2 way oil above only because it also happens to be what the mill gets for the ways. It is possible too that your steel discolors from some additive in the oil you are using.

Funny/not-so-funny story. My first job was working metrology for a precision gear manufacturer. They had just invested in a $1.8M Star SU gear grinder. Had the whole package with closed loop CMM, ultra precision tool dresser, micro particle filter, and a massive cooling oil chiller unit. The chiller was nearly the size of the machine. Our maintenance guy "got a great deal" on 400 gallons of hydraulic oil for the machine (grinding fluid). It ran for a few days and we noticed the oil was getting pretty dark. At the same time we also realized that all of the black oxide was being eaten away anywhere that got a good washing with the chilled oil. We did some testing and a black oxide bolt submerged in the oil would be bright and shiny within a day. The oil was caustic somehow. Ended up needing the company to send a service tech from Italy to repair the equipment and required a $400k repair to the chiller, workpiece spindle, grinding spindle, and dressing spindle. Was barely a week old. Didn't help that the rigging company lifted the machine by the precision workpiece rotation gear on the back (nearly 4' in diameter), so this was salt in an open wound. Thankfully the rigging company was on the hook for that part.
 
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I vote for the Vactra #2, I use it for most all my machines, except for precision spindles that use a lighter oil.
 
I suggested the Mobil Vactra #2 way oil above only because it also happens to be what the mill gets for the ways. It is possible too that your steel discolors from some additive in the oil you are using.

Funny/not-so-funny story. My first job was working metrology for a precision gear manufacturer. They had just invested in a $1.8M Star SU gear grinder. Had the whole package with closed loop CMM, ultra precision tool dresser, micro particle filter, and a massive cooling oil chiller unit. The chiller was nearly the size of the machine. Our maintenance guy "got a great deal" on 400 gallons of hydraulic oil for the machine (grinding fluid). It ran for a few days and we noticed the oil was getting pretty dark. At the same time we also realized that all of the black oxide was being eaten away anywhere that got a good washing with the chilled oil. We did some testing and a black oxide bolt submerged in the oil would be bright and shiny within a day. The oil was caustic somehow. Ended up needing the company to send a service tech from Italy to repair the equipment and required a $400k repair to the chiller, workpiece spindle, grinding spindle, and dressing spindle. Was barely a week old. Didn't help that the rigging company lifted the machine by the precision workpiece rotation gear on the back (nearly 4' in diameter), so this was salt in an open wound. Thankfully the rigging company was on the hook for that part.

Star cutter division Elk Rapids Engineering is actually in our little town. That machine may have been built there.

Tried to have one of the guys I know show me around but the brass said no :(

John
 
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