Mauser Project

Thanks for the link. Yes they are pricey but you get what you pay for. They look like quality products.
 
Haven't posted in a while. Been busy.....
I wasn't happy with the bluing on the barrel, so I chucked it up in the lathe and went though the whole polishing process again.

I also brought my "humidor" back inside to my Cave, where I had some experience, as well as the ability to multi-task.
I gave the barrel about 6 cycles of rusting/boiling(scalding)/carding.. Pictures attached. Way better results this time around.

Rusting (640x480).jpg Rusting 2 (640x480).jpg In the Tank (640x480).jpg Boiling (640x480).jpg After 5 cycles (640x480).jpg
 
Up-to-date as of 9/5.....Bluing is just about there. I'll go through one more bluing cycle tomorrow morning. This boil/scalding will include baking soda to fully neutralize the chemical reaction.

The attached pictures:

All the parts-
Lothar Walther Barrel
Original Receiver
NECG Front and Rear Sights
Original Bolt, Firing Pin, Cocking piece and bolt stop/ejector
Timney Sporter trigger
New bottom metal and follower (30-06 sized)---both aluminum, will probably replace them with better stuff later

After tomorrow's treatment, I'll assemble it all and take it out to the range to test.

I haven't ordered the stock yet, because I figured I'd buy one commensurate with the results of my metal work. If it turned out crappy, I'd just hack the old Mil stock and make due. If all went really well, maybe something "special."

We'll see...

Coming together (640x480).jpg Receiver-post blued (640x480).jpg Receiver-post blued 2 (640x480).jpg Front Sight-post blued (640x480).jpg Rear Sight (640x480).jpg
 
Up-to-date as of 9/5.....Bluing is just about there. I'll go through one more bluing cycle tomorrow morning. This boil/scalding will include baking soda to fully neutralize the chemical reaction.

The attached pictures:

All the parts-
Lothar Walther Barrel
Original Receiver
NECG Front and Rear Sights
Original Bolt, Firing Pin, Cocking piece and bolt stop/ejector
Timney Sporter trigger
New bottom metal and follower (30-06 sized)---both aluminum, will probably replace them with better stuff later

After tomorrow's treatment, I'll assemble it all and take it out to the range to test.

I haven't ordered the stock yet, because I figured I'd buy one commensurate with the results of my metal work. If it turned out crappy, I'd just hack the old Mil stock and make due. If all went really well, maybe something "special."

We'll see...

I can't imagine anyone thinking this has or will turn out 'crappy'. From the looks of things so far, I would say you'll be looking for a walnut sporter with exhibition grade figure, skeleton butt plate and grip cap with a nice ebony fore end tip.
 
Thanks, Rick;

No, Crappy is not what I'll call the results. "Decent for the first one" is how I'll describe them. Good enough to warrant a decent walnut stock. At the moment, I'm looking at this: http://rifle-stocks.com/hardwood_grades.htm the Semi-fancy grade...Rosewood tip cap and decelerator butt pad...the "Safari Classic" style.

I'll post another "good" to go pic or two tomorrow.
 
Doug,

How many grains are the bullets you will be using? I have a 9mm (and a 9.5mm that I have not yet loaded for) that I loaded 225 grain bullets for. Shooting test loads off the bench, that thing will rock you.

I imagine your 9.3mm will recoil hard but you will never notice it when you shoot a hog.

Vlad
 
Funny you should ask, Vlad. I'll initially be loading 250g Hornady GMX, as in the pictures below. Initially, I plan on using IMR 4350 or 4895. It should operate at around 48000 psi peak pressure, so I don't really expect it to kick any more than my .270 or 30-06.

Just for contrast, I show the old barrel and sights alongside the new. I'm not thrilled with my rust bluing on the barrel- it looks "antiqued" rather than blued, but I can always have a do-over later. Looks like an old African rifle? Also in the picture, 250g GMX bullets and Lapua Brass. Last, but not least, a couple of very useful tools, including Jerry Kuhnhausen's Mauser shop manual and the Lee load manual.

Once I rig up a safe way to bench test it, I'll post a couple of pics. Other than that, I'll be fiddling around with a couple of other things, since I'll be waiting for my stock (4-6 weeks at a min) I've got a strange wildcat combo of slide-action/falling block in my own 7.65 x 40 DGW caliber. But that's another thread.....

Doug W

IMG_3555 (640x480).jpg IMG_3556 (640x480).jpg IMG_3557 (640x480).jpg
 
This is a great thread. This rifle is really coming out very nicely thanks for sharing the process. I have a swedish model 96 with a Walther Lothar barrel and diopter sights it is a very good shooter. I had heard the Lothar barrels were tough to machine did you find that?

Bob
 
Great job! Thanks for sharing. I really like your bolt jeweling jig!
 
Doug,

There is no significant pitting in your receiver and if you did not get the forward locking lugs hot then there should be no need to tie it down for a remote fireing.

I think that you will find 250 grain bullets are going to rock you on the bench even if you keep the pressuere down. I might be wrong though.

Vlad
 
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