Mauser Project

[dulltool17]

So here we go...this is my first real post, so please forgive my inexperience.

Several years ago, my Father-in law gave me (2) Mausers.
The first, an 1891 Argentine, in 7.65 x 53, has all matching numbers and will remain in its original condition.

The second, a 1909 Peruvian, was in pieces. He had, at one time, intended to sporterize it, but never got around to it. So I concocted the following project:
Build an African Plains Game rifle, using:

• Existing Receiver, complete with beautiful Peruvian Crest
• new barrel, in 9.3 x 62 Mauser caliber
• Existing safety
• Timney Trigger
• "Express" sights
• Home fabricated Barrel Band Swivel

As of today, I've got it chambered, barreled, sights mounted and have dropped the pin on a live primer and am very satisfied. This thread is likely to be somewhat long, so I'll post over a few days.

What I started with in the attached photos, of the rifle , pieces, etc.
I'll upload more as time permits.

Enjoy..

Doug W

 

[dulltool17]

So after removing the barrel and cleaning out the gooey grease from the receiver. I got to work on the receiver. Since the original cartridge brass was 53mm long and the new will be 62mm long, the feed rails and ramp needed to be modified so the new cartridge will feed properly. All of this work was done with files and dremel tool. What sucks is that I really didn't take a lot of pictures. This was quite involved. Just for info, the vise used is one I built in 1975 in High School Machine Shop.

The really big deal here is making sure that the feed ramp modification doesn't leave too little metal for the bolt locking lug. The good news is that the 9.3 x 63 is not a really high pressure cartridge, with bolt load <7000 lb.

Feeding was checked by installing my new bottom metal and mag follower (which also needed a bit of hand work) and using dummy rounds made up for the purpose. The 5th pic shows the 9.3 x 62 below a 30-06, just for perspective on the new chambering.

 

[dulltool17]

While I waited for my new barrel, had a few things to do. Truing up the receiver (getting the face perpendicular to the centerline) was my next task. First had to make a few tools:

Turned a shaft between centers.

Made a plug for the front end of the receiver. One end is 1.10 x 12 TPI for large thread Mausers; the other is .980 x 12 TPI for small thread Mausers. Essentially, the small diameter of the shaft slips into the bore of the plug. Both ends of the plug still have enough countersink to properly engage the tailstock center.

Next the tools were assembled into the receiver and set up between centers. A small screw through the tang sear slot helps to prevent rotation- turns out I really didn't put enough force on the receiver to have bothered, but OK.

 

[mtnlvr]

Thanks for sharing, looks like a fun project. Mausers are great rifles.

 

[Rick Leslie]

This brings back memories. I converted more than a few 98s to 300 Win Mag back in the day. File work was the king. I can't count the days I would tape my finger tips to help alleviate the blisters. But in the end it was all worth it. Thanks for posting and please share lots of pics. I think the 9.3 is a very underrated cartridge. I would also like to see more on the vise.

 

[dulltool17]

Thanks, guys...will have more to come. I decided on the 9.3 x 62 since I also hang out on Mauser Central and Accurate Reloading, among a few others. Looks like it has a rep in Europe and Africa that rivals the 30-06 here.

And Rick, I will post more on the vise. I use it all the time for all kind of things. It is Aluminum (have no idea what alloy)
Actually as I recall the parts were castings. Used a shaper on them, then the horizontal mill.

Anyway, I got my letter and number stamps from MSC yesterday and will stamp the caliber, them we're ready for rust bluing!

Doug

 

[dulltool17]

Before we get to the really juicy stuff, like chambering, I had Puuullllllenty of time while waiting for my barrel. (someone on an other forum said that a good barrel was one you could get in the same calendar year...)

The bolt- the 1909 Peruvian has an "intermediate" bolt, which is somewhat rare, so I had more than a little hesitation at working on it.


Straight handle wasn't in really great cosmetic shape, but the entire bolt was in good, serviceable shape, so I decided to keep the bolt handle. This part, again, is a series of step that I just got so involved, I forgot to take Pics, so I'll post the "after" pics and you'll have to visualize. Sorry.


I cut about a 30 degree notch in the handle just where the round part of the handle meets the square part. My reasoning: try to keep the heat of re-welding away from the bolt body, keep the part of the bolt with the serial number (matches the receiver), and, most important- that's how I want it.


After notching, I cradled the handle between hardwood blocks and cold "forged" it to get a subtle curve and to get ~ 30 degree down angle. Keep in mind that I have no intention of putting a scope on the finished rifle, so I don't need or want it swept down or back.


The bolt handle was then welded, filled, filed, ground and polished. To help draw the heat away from the bolt body, I used a series of formed Aluminum pieces secured to the bolt body with hose clamps.

As you can see, the bolt has been jeweled.. But that's another post...

Doug

 

[dulltool17]

And then there saw jeweling of the bolt. I scoped out one of the links from Mauser Central, then decided to make my own fixture. fixture consists of unistrut parts, 1x6, a couple of 1/2-13 screws and some other junk I dug up. For the tool, I used a 3/16 dremel wire brush, a couple of pieces of shrink tube to keep it from splaying. The medium is valve grinding compound from Auto Zone. Basically, you index the bolt 30 degrees for each linear pass. The five pictures below show the set-up.
When the bolt is aligned with the blue radial marks, the longitudinal indexing is aligned with the blue marks on the linear scale The he brush and compound are brought down to jewel the bolt at each longitudinal index mark until the length of the bolt is completed. Then the rotation is indexed to the Red mark and bolt moved in alignment with the Red marks on the linear scale.

The link on Mauser Central is way better than my work for actually seeing how it's done, but I like my set up, so Ill post pics.

DW

- - - Updated - - -

Once the set-up is secured to the table of the drill press- probably running 3000 or so RPM- it's time to make it happen.
Work in progress:

- - - Updated - - -

And, of course, it is results that matter. Be forewarned, the brush and grinding compound is very aggressive. Others on another forum have suggested cratex, which is basically a conglomeration of polymer and abrasive as a better alternative. The next thing I jewel, I'll try it out. Either way, the only real control, other than accurate part indexing, that you have, is the pressure and time of contact between tool and part. Swirls can become divots if you're not careful. I am, however, satisfied with the results:

 

[dulltool17]

Now for the meaty stuff- the barrel. Barrel I've chosen is "long-chambered" meaning that the face and shoulder should only need to be cut, then it's ready for installation. In this case, the threads need to be re-cut (they come threaded 1.100 x 12 TPI, but the receiver on the Peruvian is .985 x 12 TPI. You can't just chuck the darn thing up and machine it. (first picture is just for giggles) For starters, the chuck on my Grizzley has a couple thou run-out... so a set-up of a spider chucked up in the 3-jaw and an outboard stabilizing support is necessary.

Chuck spider is a pipe coupling with OD and ID cleaned-up. (4) holes were drilled and tapped at 90 degrees using the mill and rotary table set-up on 90. Buttons were made from 1/4" pipe plugs, also 1/4-20. Outboard spider is a brass bushing turned to fit the Spindle ID. Its ID is bored just the size of the barrel.

Chamber was indicated to ~.0005 beforeany turning work was undertaken, then checked several times- before and after each operation, facing, cutting shoulder, grooving and threading. Spider held solid and concentricity was held. I was pleasantly surprised with the set-up.


More in the next post.

 

[dulltool17]

With the chamber indicated to a very small run-out, it was time to turn the barrel tang to 0.985 dia. Since the barrel, as purchased, was 1.100 x 12 tpi it need to be turned and re-threaded. Another matter-the length of the tang associated with the Large-Ring Mausers (.625) is shorter than the intermediate 1909 thread length meaning that the shoulder would need to be cut longer as well (~.715)

I faced the end, cut a relief groove, then threaded. Checking a second time for my shoulder length, I had only to bring the shoulder to its final dimension. So I measured, turned off my feed and engaged the half-nut with the expectation that I'd bring the tool right to where I needed it, using my feed knob crank to cut the shoulder.

Let me explain that the machine is a Grizzley combo. I has a feed knob located back by the tail-stock, for milling, which moves the apron using the feed-screw and half-nut. Problem is......graduations are .002 rather than .001. So I overshot my shoulder. Yes- I promised myself that I'd post what I screwed up too--part of this forum's purpose is about learning......

So I had no headspace to speak of (couldn't close the bolt).anic:

So a quick order to www.4-dproducts.com got me the right reamer in 3 days. After making DARN sure of what I needed to do, I reamed the chamber to the exact depth I needed, checked headspace and got all happy! (I spent about 45 minutes on a Friday evening making sure that everything about the set-up set-up. On Saturday morning after coffee, I went to ream the chamber; took literally 30 seconds and I was right at 0.005 headspace. Quit right there!)hew: