Making a new drill press table?

I've read, and I think you should go for it. The worst that could happen is you will get some good experience. If you plan on using A-36 plate I wouldn't be to concerned about anything unless the piece is cut from scrap trench plate. Welding the sleeve on the back side will get you minimal distortion. I can't imagine you would need more than a 3/8" (overkill) fillet weld to attach the sleeve. Preheat the plate up to 100-150 deg. and if it's cold out do a little preheating (more overkill) and if you're still concerned about any residual stress, peen the weld. I'm guessing you would face the top last so any distortion caused by relieved stress cutting the t-slots would be machined out.

Yes, the plate weighs 92# but that's only 41# on either side of center and there's a 41# counter weight in every direction. Also, how many times have we put something that weighs 92# on our drill press. I'm sure you will take 5-10#'s out when cutting the slots. If I had concerns with the weight at all it would be the amount of overhang cantilevered out past the base (front & sides), but this is easy to fix by adding to the base.

I think the drill presses with round tables are the direct result of the cost to machine and it's easier to machine the round casting. The round tables limit clamping abilities especially when you plan to dedicate it primarily for wood.

Go have fun, and we'll be waiting for updates. -Russ.
 
rrjohnso2000 said:
Any reason not to build it on top of the current table. You could get by with less thickness. I would think steel plate would work just fine
Click to expand...

My old Delta Rockwell drill press has a larger removable "top plate" as rr suggests.

My dad made it, or had it made, many years ago from aluminum. I use both the original table and the top plate, for various applications. The original table has the slots, the top plate does not.

It works very well. I can take pics if you'd like to see them.
 
If it was me, I would make a spindle piece that would fit the hole in the bracket on the DP. Either make a flange to weld to the spindle piece or make it one integral piece. Then bolt the table top to that. That way, if you wanted to replace it with a new top or something different like a fixture, it would be real easy to do. I've seen people weld a piece of 3/4" or 1" plate on the end of a piece of 2" or 2-1/2" pipe, when cooled, would have a slight bend of .015" to .050" in the plate. No problem to fix if you have a lathe with a big hole in the spindle, but if you don't what do you do to fix it? Ken
 
I made a new square table for an antique drill press; the original was nearly drilled in half on an arc shape; I made a wood pattern of it and had an iron casting made and machined it just like the original, minus all the drill divots; one could hardly tell it from the original part. Pattern work is quite easy once the requirements of the foundry are known; most of what I needed to know came from books on patternmaking and foundry work from the early 1900s; my first complicated pattern job was a steam cylinder with 5" bore with all the steam ports cored in place; all the info necessary to construct the pattern came directly from the book. I then went on to make patterns for a complete marine compound engine of about 10 HP with most all the parts made from castings, the two throw crankshaft with throws at 90 degrees, made of ductile iron, the cylinder block with 2 cylinders and ports and HP piston valve cored all in one piece.
 
benmychree said:
I made a new square table for an antique drill press; the original was nearly drilled in half on an arc shape; I made a wood pattern of it and had an iron casting made and machined it just like the original, minus all the drill divots; one could hardly tell it from the original part. Pattern work is quite easy once the requirements of the foundry are known; most of what I needed to know came from books on patternmaking and foundry work from the early 1900s; my first complicated pattern job was a steam cylinder with 5" bore with all the steam ports cored in place; all the info necessary to construct the pattern came directly from the book. I then went on to make patterns for a complete marine compound engine of about 10 HP with most all the parts made from castings, the two throw crankshaft with throws at 90 degrees, made of ductile iron, the cylinder block with 2 cylinders and ports and HP piston valve cored all in one piece.
Click to expand...
Do you mind if I ask , the cost of the casting , the pattern I can figure . But wonder if the casting would be worth making in batches of 10 or so. You know sell the others to pay for it.
 
benmychree said:
I made a new square table for an antique drill press; the original was nearly drilled in half on an arc shape; I made a wood pattern of it and had an iron casting made and machined it just like the original, minus all the drill divots; one could hardly tell it from the original part. Pattern work is quite easy once the requirements of the foundry are known; most of what I needed to know came from books on patternmaking and foundry work from the early 1900s; my first complicated pattern job was a steam cylinder with 5" bore with all the steam ports cored in place; all the info necessary to construct the pattern came directly from the book. I then went on to make patterns for a complete marine compound engine of about 10 HP with most all the parts made from castings, the two throw crankshaft with throws at 90 degrees, made of ductile iron, the cylinder block with 2 cylinders and ports and HP piston valve cored all in one piece.
Click to expand...
Did you find a foundry in California? And what are they pouring?
 
It has been 20 years since I did the job, and I do not remember the cost; the foundry I used was Ridge Foundry in San Leandro, they are still in business and unfortunately have gotten to expensive, charging a $250 minimum for a two part mold; a few months ago I had some work done there involving two big (about 75 lbs each) bearing caps for a steam donkey, and a large and small faceplate and steady and follow rest for a 9" old Monarch lathe, the total was about $950 for the lot; they pour class 40 iron and several grades of ductile iron and they have a separate facility at Angels Camp where they pour steel castings. Right now I am dealing with another foundry near Lodi for some clutch parts for the donkey; I am told that they are more reasonable on price, but have not heard from them yet as to price.
I favor castings for my projects for the sake of originality and looks, plus the ease of removing excess weight without having to make chips out of it, so machining time can be held to a minimum. weight is a large consideration for a drill press table that has to be lifted up and down, except of course it has a screw device to raise and lower it; also steel tends to gall or scratch when work is dragged over it, cast iron does not do that to much extent.
 
The other foundry where I am getting the steam donkey parts cast is Sunset Foundry in Valley Springs Ca. Incidentally you guys out there should look up Sturgeon's mill, which is near Graton and Sebastopol Ca. It is a steam powered circular sawmill where I volunteer, and run the steam engines that power it, and that is where the steam donkey is that I've been working on; it steams up and the engine runs, but we have been working the clutches over that engage the twin hoist drums; it has over a mile of 1-1/2" wire rope on one drum and was used to drag logs to the sawmills on skid roads. Just Google Sturgeon's Mill to find their web site with their schedule of run weekends, the next one is June 17th and 18th. we run from 10 to 3:00 and lunch is available on site.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top