Made A Quick Release Tool Post Handle

[darkzero]

Thank you DarkZero! Yes, your post is where I copied the idea from, our lathes are very similar, and thank you for posting the part number for the zinc handle version, I like yours much better and will order one to replace the one that I am currently using, I am sure that I will find a use for the plastic handled one somewhere in the future.

No problem Chuck. Just note that for my lathe I needed M10x55mm so the equivelent P/N for the zinc according to what you posted would be 06430-2083X50 but please double check. They're also available in black & stainless steel. The SS ones are expensive but I like the silver zinc one better anyway as I think it matched my lathe better. Mcmaster also sells them. Not sure what brand they are, they're not Kipp but are still high quality. I used the Mcmaster ones on my mill.

This is a very worthwhile addition to my lathe, Thank you! In the first photo that you posted I see a dial indicator on the bed way just beneath the chuck. How is that indicator mounted? is it on a magnet? That is one of my next projects, a carriage stop and indicator mount. Several good ones have been posted on the forum, but I have not settled on a design yet.

It's a magnetic back that can unscew. I used to use a 2" indicator before I installed a DRO. I still use the 1" Mitutoyo though for threading up to a shoulder. It's much easier to read an analog dial for times like that. Companies like Mitu & Starrett make them also but honestly I like these cheap ones much better. They cost about $7-$10 depending on where you get them from.

Will, is the KIPP part number for yours a M8 bolt or a M10 bolt? Mine has a M8 x 50mm. Your part # listed as 55mm, which is fine if the diameter is M8.

I mounted a DRO on my lathe, and the scale is close to the carriage lock bolt, so I want to make sure it will clear. If not, I can still make one.

Thanks!

GG

No problem. The P/N I used for mine is a M10 bolt, I just checked & my PM1236 does use a M10 bolt. I listed the P/N for M8x50mm above in this post but the following page has all the different P/Ns & specs: http://www.fixtureworks.net/Home/Te...30-3103X55/Default.aspx?thumbpath=thumbPath=6

 

[darkzero]

Here's a quick pic I found on the net of one of the adjustable handles used on the QCTP. Seems like a good idea but all the ones I have seen people use look funny to me. They are available in different styles though. This is a small tool post, I bet one of these handles for a BXA size isn't cheap. But I like the look of GG's & similar styles better anyway.Probably work better too since it has better leverage.




I also though about using the adjustable handles on my compound but I didn't like the idea of stringy chips possible getting caught on them. On my old lathe I stripped the studs from tightening down the nuts so often (cheap China metal). On my current lathe I didn't strip them yet but I decided to replace the studs & nuts with SHCSs. I like it so much better using a hex key for the compound. I believe many larger lathes use SHCSs as well but are recessed. I highly recommend this mod, so much better than having to use a bulky open end wrench.

 

[Chuck Torman]

GG, The original carriage lock screw on my Grizzly G4003G was a m8-1.25x55, but the Kipp handle that I used is a m8-1.25x50, because the original screw hole was counter bored for the entire head of the screw to be recessed below the surface of the carriage, the portion of the Kipp screw that we would normally think of as the head did not protrude far enough below the handle to completely fill the counter bore, so I made a .200" spacer washer to fill the difference and allow the handle to clear the carriage surface and rotate freely. the bottom end of the screw stud portion of the Kipp handle comes flush with the very bottom surface of the carriage housing on my lathe, so I am getting full thread contact the entire depth of my carriage. Sorry for any confusion regarding screw stud length, Grizzly list that screw on their website parts breakdown as a m8-1.25x60. I did not pay attention to the original screw that I removed as to how much it protruded below the bottom of the carriage, I only know that I am now getting complete thread engagement. Since your lathe is a different brand etc., I would assume that yours might very well be different than mine. Thank you for sharing your work and ideas with the rest of us,
Chuck

 

[Chuck Torman]

Here's a quick pic I found on the net of one of the adjustable handles used on the QCTP. Seems like a good idea but all the ones I have seen people use look funny to me. They are available in different styles though. This is a small tool post, I bet one of these handles for a BXA size isn't cheap. But I like the look of GG's & similar styles better anyway.Probably work better too since it has better leverage.




I also though about using the adjustable handles on my compound but I didn't like the idea of stringy chips possible getting caught on them. On my old lathe I stripped the studs from tightening down the nuts so often (cheap China metal). On my current lathe I didn't strip them yet but I decided to replace the studs & nuts with SHCSs. I like it so much better using a hex key for the compound. I believe many larger lathes use SHCSs as well but are recessed. I highly recommend this mod, so much better than having to use a bulky open end wrench.

Another great idea, I don't like the hex head cap screws on mine either.
Chuck

 

[darkzero]

Good point Chuck. Another reason I went with the one I did is it was the only other style I liked with an appropiate size the would have fit in the counterbore on my carriage. I originally wanted a different style but the shoulder was too large to fit. Stupid me, I have a lathe duh, I could have turned it down to fit but that's ok, I'm still happy with the one I got.

 

[planeflyer21]

I've watched his video's and really like them. It just gets hard to understand what he is saying sometimes.
I was actually referring to what video of his you were talking about exactly.

Was watching one of his videos, wifey says "I can't understand what he's saying."

So I repeated "If you're cutting a long piece and it is bigger at one end than on the other, you may have to level your bed. Perhaps you might even need to adjust how your headstock is mounted to the bed."

Wifey says "I don't know what that means."

 

[GarageGuy]

No problem. The P/N I used for mine is a M10 bolt, I just checked & my PM1236 does use a M10 bolt. I listed the P/N for M8x50mm above in this post but the following page has all the different P/Ns & specs: http://www.fixtureworks.net/Home/Te...30-3103X55/Default.aspx?thumbpath=thumbPath=6

Thank you for the link, Will. Under $10 is an awesome price.

GG, The original carriage lock screw on my Grizzly G4003G was a m8-1.25x55, but the Kipp handle that I used is a m8-1.25x50, because the original screw hole was counter bored for the entire head of the screw to be recessed below the surface of the carriage, the portion of the Kipp screw that we would normally think of as the head did not protrude far enough below the handle to completely fill the counter bore, so I made a .200" spacer washer to fill the difference and allow the handle to clear the carriage surface and rotate freely. the bottom end of the screw stud portion of the Kipp handle comes flush with the very bottom surface of the carriage housing on my lathe, so I am getting full thread contact the entire depth of my carriage. Sorry for any confusion regarding screw stud length, Grizzly list that screw on their website parts breakdown as a m8-1.25x60. I did not pay attention to the original screw that I removed as to how much it protruded below the bottom of the carriage, I only know that I am now getting complete thread engagement. Since your lathe is a different brand etc., I would assume that yours might very well be different than mine. Thank you for sharing your work and ideas with the rest of us,
Chuck

Thanks Chuck. It sounds like my lathe is similar to yours. The cap head bolt for my carriage lock is recessed too. I was also thinking that a longer bolt with a spacer would be the best approach. The price is so reasonable that I'll buy one, and even if it doesn't fit, I'll find another use for it.

Thanks guys!

GG