LW Chuck Compny Power Hacksaw

Rick--after dreaming about this more, I'm sure that the spacer ring has an internal thread and the small hole just below it is for inserting a small soft pin so it keeps the spacer from turning after it is adjusted to eliminate side play on sector gear.--I'm thinking the threads would be right hand, and the pin may have been lead or a soft material so it wouldn't damage the threads, just retain them from easily turning.==if you take a very small dental type pick-- insert it in the tiny hole and put the point on the top to see if you can feel threads on id of spacer--also with a depth pin see how deep the little hole is.--also see if you can get a thickness measurement of the spacer. you may want to give the little hole a few shots of high air pressure and then check the depth to see if it changes any. put small marks on the spacer and see how far it moves when you rotate it to the left each time to see if you gain any by moving it right and left. because the top of the little hole looks like it would be where the threads would be on the spacer ID, then I'm sure it is for a soft locking drag on the threads---sure wish I was there to carefully examine to decide if we are on the right thinking--I have many very small dental picks and I sometimes just use a small needle as a depth pin. --Dave--:thinking:
 
Rick--I was wondering if you have made any progress on geting the sector gear off, or are you on vacation? Dave :thinking:
 
Dave (and ay others playing along) - not on vacation but Alaska has been on my mind. It has been so stinkinghot and humid here that I decided to walk away from this for awhile. No significant progress to report. I hope to get back to this in the next few days - weather is supposed to improve some and I got a few "mst get done" things out of the way. The only really workable time is a few hurs in the early morning. I have always said that I tolerated the upstate NY winters because spring, summer and fall were so nice - i'm changing my mind this year. :)

Rick
 
Well a little progress today - not success just another piece of the puzzle. I pulled the arm/sub base/power transmission sub assembly off of the base. I was/am going to take it a reasonably local machine rebuilder for evaluation so I thought I would do a better job of cleaning it up. As I was cleaning the arm I noticed some sort of fastener - see picture

ArmTaperPin_zpsad1835ab.jpg

you'll see the fastener in line with the clamping bolt hole and grease hole. I don't know why I didn't see that before but if you look at the same picture a few posts upthread you'll see it isn't really apparent. In any event it turned out to bbe a taper pin that engages a groove in the outer tube. When that pin is removed the armis no longer tied to the sector gear. In other words the arm moves independant of the gear. The gear also turns and is still locked to the outer tube. The movement in the sector gear that I previously thought was a key is, I believe, releated to the taper pin fit. I was also able to detemrine that the outer tube has about a 1/2" wall.

The sector gear still isn't coming off and if I turn the sector gear in either direction it locks up about 1/4 of the way through its rotation. With a little persuasion it will move through that and get loose again so I still believe there is some sort of eccentric locking mechanism going on - but I haven't yet figured out what.

Rick
 
Rick--glad you found the taper pin--it sure helps to clean mechanisms good for uncovering hidden pins covered with thick paint.--now when you clean good the flywheel on the end maybe you will locate a pin on either side of the hub--with that off maybe the shaft will slide out the sector end---anyway, I'm happy you are progressing good !!! Dave--:))
 
SUCCESS!! - wish I could claim it was all my own doing but it wasn't. First here's the back story - anyone following this thread knows I have been struggling with the whole power transmission side of this machine. I was getting desperate and felt something bad building up so before I did something really stupid I decided to stop and let it rest awhile. In the meantime I went looking for a parts schematic/manual for this saw - posted a BOYD ad here and on four other forums. I also posted a CL WTB ad on 6 different larger cities in upstate NY. Not much luck finding the dirty paper (I haven't given up on that yet cause I would like to have it for reassembly) but I did get some CL responses - most pointed me to OWWM :), one told me to get rid of the piece of junk and get a cut off saw, one identifed another forum that may be of some help. The final response I got was from a fellow who recommended a machine rebuilder about 50 miles south of me. I gave them a call and, of course, they had never heard of L.W. Chuck Company and didn't have any paper in their extensive files but they did agree to take a look and maybe give me some guidance. I drove it down to them this morning and the shop foreman took a look. We discussed all of the things I had discovered and thought I knew. He said I did all of the right things and that he too couldn't see an obvious disassembly path. He was starting to conclude that one end or the other was pressed on. I suggested that didn't seem to make sense to me from an original assembly perspective and he agreed. So he said we charge $85 an hour and would I be willing to leave it for one hour - if they couldn't get it in an hour then they probably couldn't get it at all. So the deal was one hour ($85 is almost as much as I have in the whole machine) - if they couldn't get it apart then no charge, if they got it apart then the hourly rate and if they broke something in the process they would repair at no charge. So off I went to get a cup of coffee and relax.

I returned an hour later and didn't see anything laying around - The foreman said follow me. He showed me what they had done which was basicallly trying to remove the "eccentric ring" - which he felt wasn't an eccentric at all. He gave me an option of chiseling off the ring (which he thought may be pressed on) - I told him that seemed like a potential solution but that there had to be another method as that didn't sound like the way this would have gone together. He agreed that either end being pressed on as the final assembly step didn't make sense. So we both stared at it awhile and then he started taking a closer look at the crank wheel end - finally he said - that looks like it may be threaded and the light bulb went on. That made perfect sense in terms of the original assembly process. We discussed that awhile and finally decided if it was threaded they would right hand so as to be self tightening in operation. He took the whole assembly to a 16" lathe and chucked up the sector gear end of the drive shaft to keep it from spinning. Then he smacked the crank wheel with a piece of brass a few times and BINGO - off it came. With that off the rest of the pieces pretty much took themselves apart.

Here's what I started with

Assembled_zpsf6f0b9f1.jpg

Crank wheel and Cam off - the cam is pinned to the crank wheel and goes over a shoulder on the drive shaft

CrankWheel_CamOff_zpsd27dda36.jpg

Then simply pull the drive shaft off - the "eccentric" collar is, I believe, pressed on but I'm going to leave as is. There's no good reason to remove it. I no longer believe this is an eccentric but simply a shoulderthat locks the gear on the drive shaft

DriveShaftOut_zps7e36816f.jpg

Then I pulled out the sector gear and bushing (after removing the taper pin). It appears the gear may be pressed on the bushing but I'm going to leave that as is too - I can mask that off for cleaning and painting. The right side of the gear is counterbored to accept the locking collar.There is a groove in the outside of the bushing that the taper pin goes through to lock the gear and arm together.

SectorGear_BushingOff_zps8f3c6064.jpg

Finally the arm simply comes out from between the two cast uprights

ArmOff_zps33ef01e0.jpg

This was quite an adventure and learning experience so well worth the cost - oh yeah - they only charged me $40. Not much left to do in terms of disassembly except remove the vice and clean up the base cabinet.
Thanks to all who have been participating in this piece of the rebuild. I'll be back if I run into any other problems. I still plan on doing a pictorial of the reassembly so the next guy who stumbles onto one of these machines will have some information.
Rick
 
Rick--glad you got it all apart without any damage. will be looking for pics when it is cleaned up and painted--Dave :))
 
Well I'm making a little progress - all parts are blasted except for the base cabinet - I used a wire wheel on that. Currently in th eprocess of painting - here's alink to a thread on anther forum that shows some pictures. Hopefully this doesn't violate any site ethics - but frankly its a lot of work to maintain two active threads with pictures and the poictures are much easier to directly load over there. If its a problem I can repost here.

http://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=134860

One area I'm looking for a little help on is the powering of this saw. It came to me with with a 3 phase, 1-1/2 HP, 1725 motor which seems like overkill to me but I'm not sure what the power requirements are? Any suggestions?

My options are to put a VFD on the existing motor but that seems like an unnecessary expense for little gain. I don't think the variable speed aspects of the VFD have a lot of application with this tool.

I could also build an RPC - I currently have a 5 HP 3 phase motor I could use for an idler but again some expense and lots of education required.

Finally I could swap the motor out for a single phase - thus the question about power requirements.

Thanks for any suggestions/thoughts you may have.

Rick
 
I thought I'd post a few pictures of the completed project. I didn't get much of any response in terms of knowledge about this machine - I'm not surprised as there seems to be very little experience with them. I kind of went with my gut in a lot of areas but its done and seems to wrok as expected.

Here's where I started

AsReceived2_zpse6203f2a.jpg


AsReceived1_zps4531bf1e.jpg

Ande here's the finished product - I chnaged the motor out from a 1-1/2 HP 3 phase to a 1 HP single phase and have it running at about 105 cutting strokes per minute.

Front_zps5b116c8e.jpg

Back_zps717f7abd.jpg

Motor_zpscc47843a.jpg

Side_zps2f5558fb.jpg

I've linked to a couple of videos below that show it running. In the first video I didn't have the auto kick out adjusted properly so I made a second shorter one showing that feature.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVvqtjItZMM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sem7KiQ12k4


Thanks for looking

Rick
 
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