Looking for info, Clausing 8520 needs x-y DRO

How do you like your 8520?
I like the size.
I found any DRO is better than none. The I-gaging kits are cheap and work, in my experience. I put a set on my old BP.
 
I absolutely love my 8520. I used to make some parts that required a .100” cut 3.5” long. I used a 5 flute carbide 1/2” end mill. The machine did the work beautifully without any difficulties. I ran 300 part orders for about 4 years and the 8520 has shown virtually no serious wear. It’s a great machine !
 

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frankly2 said:
I absolutely love my 8520. I used to make some parts that required a .100” cut 3.5” long. I used a 5 flute carbide 1/2” end mill. The machine did the work beautifully without any difficulties. I ran 300 part orders for about 4 years and the 8520 has shown virtually no serious wear. It’s a great machine !
Click to expand...
Awesome machine!
You need rigidity to make that cut without barking.
I haven't tried 5 flute cutters. I would use a roughing end mill to make that cut then finish with a .010" pass with a finish end mill.
That's my method based on my beast of a machine.
I'm learning this milling business.
Unfortunately I have a bunch of cheap end mills. I have noticed a big difference with quality tooling though.
 
Janderso said:
Awesome machine!
You need rigidity to make that cut without barking.
I haven't tried 5 flute cutters. I would use a roughing end mill to make that cut then finish with a .010" pass with a finish end mill.
That's my method based on my beast of a machine.
I'm learning this milling business.
Unfortunately I have a bunch of cheap end mills. I have noticed a big difference with quality tooling though.
Click to expand...
I have found the 8520 to be a very rigid machine when used properly. It only has 18” effective X axis cutting range with its 24” deck. But I have found that in a small hobby shop it’s almost perfect. Y axis is also limited but the 4 1/2“ travel seems to be adaquate for all I have needed.

You can’t beat quality tooling, it always does a clean job and is easier on your machine due to better geometry. I find the 5 flute mills provide less vibration and better finishes. Also noted longer cutting life. Yes they are more expensive, however they last much longer than high speed steel cutters.

I find the same nuances with the carbide insert tooling on my lathes. Better lasting and better finishes ! Seems you just can’t beat modern tooling and its superior geometry.
 
DavidR8 said:
@frankly2 I might suggest an LCD screen DRO such as this. I find the display to be more intuitive and easier to read.
It is what I installed on my mill.
www.aliexpress.com

223.7US $ 8% OFF|Complete 3 Axis Dro Kit Set Big LCD Display Digital Readout Controller with 3pcs 5U Linear Scale Linear Optical Ruler 50 to 1000|Level Measuring Instruments| - AliExpress

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
www.aliexpress.com www.aliexpress.com
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Yes, I noticed that when I was shopping but decided to save a few bucks. I can always replace it at some later date if I find I don’t like the display. And I am a very small hobby shop !
 
MrWhoopee said:
I understand your skepticism, you're not the first. There are several members here who have bought DROs off Aliexpress and have been quite happy. There are units available now with large, full color LCD displays that weren't around when I bought mine.
As for scale length, you need to figure your maximum travel on each axis then add the amount specified by the seller. There are videos on Youtube of shortening glass scales that were ordered too long by simply cutting the housing and scale together in a 4x6 bandsaw.
Finding flat surfaces to mount on is probably the hardest part, along with avoiding loss of travel. On my SB Heavy 10, I actually removed the carriage tailpiece and made a rectangular one to avoid modifying the original. I was able to pull the whole thing off with only two 10-24 tapped holes in the bed casting and a few more in the heads of various mounting bolts.

View attachment 361011
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Is that taper attachment a stock SB or did you build it yourself ? Looks like shop made, and looks like the cross slide was cut off and drilled to mount an extension ? I’m not too familiar with the heavy 10, I am however an owner (2 nd) of a SB 9 “C” .

now that was a dumb question, after looking closer to your attachment pic I have to conclude you did in fact alter your heavy 10 ! Obviously ! And some nice work, I might add. But still a question remains ! Did you make your own taper attachment or use a SB original ?
 

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frankly2 said:
Is that taper attachment a stock SB or did you build it yourself ? Looks like shop made, and looks like the cross slide was cut off and drilled to mount an extension ? I’m not too familiar with the heavy 10, I am however an owner (2 nd) of a SB 9 “C” .
Click to expand...
Mine is a stock TA. The lathe was apparently purchased with just about every option available. The only things missing when I got it were 4-jaw chuck and follower rest. On a Heavy 10, the cross-slide tail-piece (connecting bar) is bolted on instead of integral, making it much easier to mount a TA on a lathe that didn't come with one.

1617466920273.png
 
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