Looking At A 954

Thanks for the info, the cylinder rod is 1" on most of them so that would be an issue. I guess i need to keep looking for a larger one, would a Craftsman 101.07403 have a large enough spindle bore?
 
No, Atlas built all of the 12" Craftsman lathes sold between about 1936 and 1981. And as I wrote above, all Atlas built 9", 10" and 12" lathes have 25/32" ID spindles.

If your question about parting off 3" dia. by 3/16" wall thickness pipe referred to cutting off the blind end of single acting welded cylinders, you might investigate how much of the rod has to stick out in order that the parting off tool will safely clear the piston. And compare this to the thickness of heavy duty 6" 3-jaw threaded chucks less the length of the spindle nose threads on an Atlas lathe. If there is in all cases say at least 1/4" clearance, then you could use an Atlas machine. But I would recommend one with Timken bearings instead of babbit. Which means later 10" or later 12" machines but not the 9". For example, the 6" Pratt-Bernard heavy duty chuck on my Atlas 3996 (a 12") will take only about 2-5/8" of 1-1/8" diameter rod through the chuck before it hits the end of the spindle nose. That probably isn't enough.

So you are almost certainly going to need a machine with a larger spindle bore. Unfortunately, my familiarity with other brand machines is only from the operators and parts manuals. And these things (including Atlas I'm sorry to say) almost never give the spindle bore. So I can't rattle off a list of brand and model numbers with spindle bores of 1-1/8" or larger. I can say that you are unlikely to find one at a price anywhere near to $250. And most will have beds even longer than 54" and swings of 14" or 16" or larger. Perhaps someone else can chime in about large bore short bed machines.
 
The South Bend heavy 10 has a large bore in the Spindle. I believe that it is 1 3/8". It is also a lot heavier machine than an Atlas. There are deals to be had on them but they usually run more than a Atlas on price.
 
mrbacklash said:
I am looking to buy my first lathe and have a few questions. I am looking to use it for repairing hydraulic cylinders on John Deere garden tractors that are welded on both ends. I have my eye on an Atlas 954 what are the good and bad things about this lathe? Also what does this lathe weigh with the motor?


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Just curious Backlash, these cylinders you mentioned- how were they welded together without melting the seals? Are you sure they are really meant to be repaired? Or do you have an ulterior motive?:cool 2:
Mark S.
 
According to their 1948 catalog, the South Bend 10" was available with either a 1" or a 1-3/8" spindle bore.

The Logan 11" 1900 Series and 12" 2500 and 2900 Series have 1-3/8" spindle bores and 2-1/4"-8 spindle nose. The Logan 10" 1800 and 9" 900 Series are the same as the Atlas 10" and 12".

The Clausing 13" 6500 Series has a 1-9/16" dia. spindle bore and an L-0 spindle nose

The Colchester (Clausing) 11" 8000 series has a 1-3/8" spindle bore and a D-1 spindle nose.

The Delta 11" 25- Series has a 1-3/8" bore and either 2-1/4"-8 or L-00 spindle nose.

And there are probably many others. Unfortunately, you are not going to find any of these for anywhere near to $250.
 
markba633csi said:
Just curious Backlash, these cylinders you mentioned- how were they welded together without melting the seals? Are you sure they are really meant to be repaired? Or do you have an ulterior motive?:cool 2:
Mark S.
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Mark,

More expensive hydraulic cylinders were (are?) rebuildable. They are made with an O-ring groove in the back side (toward the cylinder) of the rod end and clevis end. The loose tube is stuck into the grooves and retained by four long studs. I doubt that the original manufacturer intended for the welded cylinders to be repaired. But there may be a need for good cylinders and new ones are no longer available (or cost a small fortune). As for as how they were assembled without burning up the seals, the rod end is welded on first. Then the rod and piston are installed and the piston pulled all the way to the rod end. Then the clevis end is welded on. It probably wouldn't be necessary for most lengths but if the cylinder was very short, the rod and rod end would be immersed in non-flamable coolant.
 
They are built by Deere, to be non repairable so you have to cut the weld at the end and then re weld them I have done it with a cut off wheel but a lathe would make it easy. I wrap mine with a wet rag to keep them cool.


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Mrbacklash,

I don't know why this didn't occur to me, possibly because given the option, one would remove the clevis end first, slightly bevel the ID and then push out the piston and rod. But, although for several reasons, some previously mentioned and some not, I wouldn't personally recommend doing it with the 9", there is a practical way to cut off the rod and clevis ends without having to pass the 1" rod through the headstock spindle. Cut off the piston end first. I don't know specifically what the clevis end on your cylinders looks like. You may need to make a fixture for the clevis that you can grab in a 4-jaw. but that you would have to do (or not) with any lathe up to maybe a 20". You will in any scenario have to have a steady rest. Be sure that it is the type that the top opens so that you can just lay the cylinder down on the bottom two jaws. And I would recommend roller jaws.

The Atlas tailstock ram is 1-1/8" in diameter. Remove the ram, feed screw and bearing. And the ram lock. Sleeve the tailstock with a length of 1-1/8" OD .06" WT thin wall tubing. You might drill oil holes to line up with the hole that the ram lock sleeves normally occupy. You will also need something to keep the sleeve from rotating in the tailstock. Remove the anti-rotate screw from the bottom of the tailstock nose. Get a dog (extended) point socket set screw that fits the anti-rotate screw threads (probably 1/4"-20). Drill a hole in the sleeve the same diameter as the dog point to line up with the tapped hole. Install the sleeve and run the dog point screw in until finger tight. I would probably secure it with Blue Locktite. With a Dremel or similar grinder and as large stone, grind the dog point down flush with the ID of the sleeve. I have a Dremel tool holder that fits the vice on my milling attachment that I would use for the job. But if you have steady hands, you can probably do it free-hand. You want a slip fit between the rod and sleeve so you may need to ream or bore the sleeve in place after you have it locked.

Anyway, this would work if you don't buy one of the larger spindle bore lathes. Regardless of what you use to do it, you will need to make a slip fit plug to keep from egging the cylinder during cutting off of the second end (whichever end that is).
 
wa5cab said:
And there are probably many others. Unfortunately, you are not going to find any of these for anywhere near to $250.
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Yes they do usually run more than an Atlas but there are deals out there. http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/picked-an-sb-10-today.37624/ Unfortunately am usually not in the right place at the right time.

Mrbacklash,
Do you just have to remove the end opposite the end with the rod. If so you might be able to use a 3 or 4 jaw chuck to hold the end with the rod by having the rod fully in, depending on how much sticks out you should have room for the rod in the center of the chuck. You could then use a steady rest on the other end and remove just that cap. If this is the case most of the 10/12" Atlas/Craftsman lathes should work. Not sure about the 9"
 
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