Looking At A 954

mrbacklash

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I am looking to buy my first lathe and have a few questions. I am looking to use it for repairing hydraulic cylinders on John Deere garden tractors that are welded on both ends. I have my eye on an Atlas 954 what are the good and bad things about this lathe? Also what does this lathe weigh with the motor?


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The only weights that I have are shipping weights. Which depending upon which motor it has would vary between about 235 and 250 pounds. So bare weight around 200.

On the 954 as a first lathe I will have to be honest and say that I would recommend that (in the Atlas line) you look for a 10F (like model TH54) or Craftsman 101.07403. These are the same size as the 954 except that the 10F has a 10" swing instead of 9" and the 07403 is 12". Swing is the nominal largest diameter of part that you can swing over the bed. Swing over the carriage is on most lathes about half of the swing over bed. The reason that I would recommend this isn't the modest swing increase. The 10F and the equivalent Craftsman models were made up until 1957 and the availability of either new or used parts is much much better. Plus numerous improvements were made over the years.

There are also two or three other brands from the same period with roughly equivalent machines but I have no personal experience with any of them. About all that I can say is that fewer were sold so parts availability may not be as good if you do need a part. Other than that, I won't comment either pro or con.

Now if you were a collector of vintage Atlas or even just vintage machinery, a complete 954 would be a great find. I personally only know of 3 or 4 scattered around the country.
 
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Thanks, would an Atlas or Craftsman be the way to start out with? In reality i only need 18-24 between centers max, but this is a pretty decent deal price wise i think complete with motor disassembled and bead blasted for $250 I have found plenty of documentation online as far as reassembly, and plenty of parts available on Ebay it looks.
 
The lathe was bead blasted? What exactly was bead blasted?
 
All of the items that were painted were bead blasted and primed


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mrbacklash,
i have the same typ of lathe just a shorter bed. mine is a 936. its a nice lathe - to look at. the typ of power transfer to the spindle needs 3 belts, it is called a compound drive. something like a back gear but a little flimmsy. i run it sometimes, but if i want to make parts, mostly aluminum or brass, i move to my 9 inch south bend. you cant compare them to each other. there are worlds in between. its like driving a small fiat or driving a heavy truck. this lathe was the first atlas that was build. it was made for the hobbyist.
its your choice, but i as a owner i totally agree what robert said.
ernst
 
Would it be too much to ask of it to part a 3" diameter pipe with 3/16" wall?


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Part that pipe with a horizontal band saw then take a face cut on the lathe to make it pretty.
 
well, i am not a machinist, i did not learn the trade. i always try to play it safe.
here are the problems that i see:
to grap and center a 3 inch pipe in the chuck is not as easy as it looks like. you can easily bend or press it with the chuck. also it depends how long the pipe is or in which distance to the chuck you need to make the cut.
the steady rest for my 936 is just a hair to small to help supporting the 3 inch pipe.
i would definitly do the cut with a saw and than if neccesarry do facing in the lathe.
but as i said i am not a machinist.
ernst
 
Well, no, probably not. But if the 3" thin wall tubing is longer than about 6 or 7 inches, you will need a Steady Rest. However, that would also be true of Ernst's 9" South Bend or of my 12" Atlas Commercial.

Also, how you would do that safely with any machine would depend upon how long the pipe was and how much you are parting off. If for example you are parting off the closed end of a welded construction hydraulic cylinder, you could probably do that on the 954 if the piston rod is no larger than 3/4". The spindle bore on all of the Atlas machines except the 6" ones is 25/32". So 3/4" is the limit that you can stick up in or through the spindle bore. If the rod is larger than 3/4". then it depends upon how much of the rod has to stick out in order to get the piston safely out of the way of the parting tool. That's almost certain to be too much for the light duty chucks that you normally find on an Atlas 9" or babbit bearing 10". One other problem is that unless the 954 you are thinking of buying comes with a Steady Rest in good usable condition, you might find one on eBay this week or it could take two years of looking. Ones for the 10" and 12" turn up fairly frequently (typically more so on average than ones for the Logan's, Clausing's or South Bend's, which are the other brands I was thinking about earlier). And any of them are likely to cost you $150 to $300. Regardless of make, it seems to be a truism that any two or three significant accessories will cost as much or more than almost any of the bare lathes.

But the bottom line is, if you are buying a lathe (or anything else) to mainly do a specific job or type of job, don't let what looks like a good deal dollar wise talk you into buying something that can do it but just barely. Because by the second or third time you have to do it, you will have forgotten all about how good a deal it was and begin to dread the next job. I'm not yet saying that that's the case here, only that it could be.
 
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