- Joined
- Mar 15, 2019
- Messages
- 708
Actually the epoxy has a hard time sticking to cast iron that has been oiled. It will usually stick to one side only and peel off the other easily.
That is kinda sorta. The annealed copper is compressible so you could tighten the tram where you wanted, as opposed to using shims where you have to pull the column up to install new shims. His method appeals to me because every time I've done the "you have to pull it to shim it" process there is a lot of hunt and peck involved. It's been a while since I watched the vid, but I would want to "dry test" the process by just using the copper wire without the epoxy and get a feel for how it goes. The reason he uses the special epoxy is to spread contact out to the whole column base and to make a non compressible base after the epoxy sets. I think Rick Sparber mentioned the effect of torque on the column base bolt too.I watched the Stefan Gotteswinter video and I'm bit perplexed.
What I took away from the video is that he raised the column up, placed four pieces of annealed copper wire in the corners, squeezed in metal epoxy to fill the gap and then tightened down the column till he achieved "perfect" tram.
I assume that the copper wire was squeezed and became the 'shims'.
I don't know if anyone else has watched the video and can confirm my impressions.
Would rented 6' x 6' scaffolding on wheels (and a chain hoist) work?
That could work depending on how tall they are. I have barely 8’ headroom in my garage and there’s a 3-ply, 2x12 beam running down the centre which cuts the headroom down to about 7’.
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I have a pile of 48.3 mm scaffolding pipe and a big box of assorted clamps. Very handy for knocking up a temporary gantry for a hoist among other things. Cheap to source second hand and new clamps are only a few dollars.Would rented 6' x 6' scaffolding on wheels (and a chain hoist) work?