Lodge and Shipley 16"x8' Model X Lathe

If your cross slide is equipped with the "fast threading", it's located behind the cross slide dial. There is a steel ball that rides in a track inside a bushing. This bushing can get stuck and hard to remove at times. So another thing to watch for, a steel ball that can easily get lost.
 
LOL.... When I pressed the dial apart, the ball bearings went flying..... but I found both of them within two feet of my feet... I thought that there would be a lot of corrosion between the faces, but it looks like they will clean up easily, and hopefully, have a nice running fit. One of the springs, obviously, looks like a weaker replacement. I`ll see what I have in my spring collection.

Brian
 
Hi Ken,

Yes, my cross slide is equipped with the "fast threading" feature, and I did manage to not lose that ball bearing also, although it fell to the floor and bounced a couple of times before I caught it... I plan on taking it all back apart, once I get the tapered gib repaired and scraped in, to take some pics of the various components. I now have the base of the cross slide off the saddle, and the wear is quite apparent there. Also, manually using the oil pump, no oil comes up to the saddle flats, so no wonder there is lots of wear. But, I will live with it.

Brian
 
Yeah, that was the problem with mine, too. Very little oil was getting to all of the oil points in the carriage. I drilled out nearly 16 plugs that was plugging all of the gun drilled holes in the saddle to in order to clean them all out. Used about 4 cans of Brake Clean in the process. Replaced about half of all of the Bijur metering units buried in the saddle. I have a few pictures of the process and findings if your interested in seeing what I encountered cleaning mine out. I also set up a electrically operated unit that starts operating the moment you state the spindle motor.
 
If your cross slide is equipped with the "fast threading", it's located behind the cross slide dial. There is a steel ball that rides in a track inside a bushing. This bushing can get stuck and hard to remove at times. So another thing to watch for, a steel ball that can easily get lost.

Are you talking about the cross slide 'stop' that's built in? I've used one on an old American Pacemaker. You can wind the cross slide dial in to the stop each time you make a thread-cutting pass to speed up the threading process, right? It helps quickly repeat the depth of cut on the cross slide?
 
Are you talking about the cross slide 'stop' that's built in? I've used one on an old American Pacemaker. You can wind the cross slide dial in to the stop each time you make a thread-cutting pass to speed up the threading process, right? It helps quickly repeat the depth of cut on the cross slide?


Hi Jake,

Yes, it is known as a cross slide ball stop. It looks like this...

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There is a linear round bottomed groove, which traps the single ball bearing, then this round bottomed "worm", if you will, allows a certain amount of travel in and out, to quickly repeat back to zero. I haven't got it back together yet, so I don't know more about it. Maybe Ken can tell us more.

I have been struggling to find a couple of 10hp 3 phase motors, one to replace the high voltage motor on the lathe, and another to add to my RPC. So, I called a local motor repair shop and ordered two and picked them up yesterday. I assumed that both would have been Leeson's, but from what I understood, the Leeson is a reconditioned motor, while the EchTop is a new motor.

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Brian
 
I haven't done much in the shop in the last few weeks, but I finally sourced a 5 gallon pail of Mobil Heavy Medium mineral oil for the head stock and quick change gear box. I first wanted to drain the existing oil, clean out the goop, and then add the fresh oil. First I removed one of the rear drain cocks on the head stock...

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The Cuno oil filter had some black goo on it, but looks to be in great shape. The first thing that came out of the rear drain cock, was clear water, just a little, before the black oil followed. I am not surprised, as this stood outdoors for a couple of years, before I bought it. In all, I drained maybe a cup of water, and a litre of oil.

Next, I removed the clutch linkages from the rear sump, in order to remove the sump for inspection and cleaning...
It really wasn't as heavy as I thought it was going to be. Maybe 50 lbs. What I saw in the sump immediately alarmed me... !!! :eek 2:

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Brian
 
In amongst the black goop in the sump, were seven gear teeth... !!!

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I then opened up the access panel above the sump and found more teeth, as well as the destroyed gear....


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The destroyed gear is dead center of the pic. What a bummer.... I will have to hope that someone is parting out a L&S lathe of that vintage. A good thing, is that the 14", 16" and 20" lathes of that 10 year period, all share the same head stock guts, from what I have learned. There is still hope... :)

Brian
 
Man, Brian, what a bummer for sure! What does that gear drive? Is it only for one speed range?

I'm sure someone has an L&S lathe for parts. With any luck you'll get some attention on this site and make the connection you need!

Thanks for posting, this is one of my favorite threads to follow. Glad you made progress, but sorry to hear of the setback. Don't lose hope!
 
All man! What a bummer, too!

Off hand, I don't know of an doner lathe for parts.

First, try contacting Monarch and see if that gear is available, of course the cost for that gear is going to be close of the cost you paid for the lathe. There are several gear cutting shops around the country that would be willing to make another gear.
I know one shop in Dallas, TX that has probably has made several of these gears in years past. Company name is "Machine Tool & Repair"
Might check with HGR and see if they have a trashed out L & S you could buy the headstock off of, but again, that would be a crap shoot.

I'm sorry to hear that, not the news anyone wants to hear.

Ken
 
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