LIGHTING YOUR LATHE WORK

[RJSakowski]

Just a reminder that fluorescent lights strobe at 60 cycles per second and can make moving parts look like they are stopped.
When a moving part is turning at a speed in harmony with 60 cycles per second (or 3600 cycles per minute) then there is a risk of being fooled. For example, a four jaw chuck turning at 360 or 720 rpm etc. That's the reason I do not use fluorescent lights too close to my lathe.

I remember when that was true. It doesn't seem to be that bad now. I saw a faint ghost when I placed a piece of white tape on a black Delrin rod and spun it in the lathe. I suspect that the phosphors that they use now have a longer persistence. Some of the newer fluorescent fixtures are using high frequency excitation which wouldn't exhibit the strobing phenomenon.

However, LED lighting has surpassed the efficiency of fluorescent so I am in the process of converting to LED lighting anyway.

 

[BROCKWOOD]

So, this is what I have for now. Yes, it has magnification, which is nice, but I'm wearing out the plastic pieces & slowly replacing them with shop made aluminum pieces. Still need something for the left side of the mill portion. Thank you all for the great ideas!!!

 

[jocat54]

I have a 4' fluorescent hanging over the lathe and the halogen that is mounted to the lathe. It all lights the work well, but will probably replace the halogen with led--it gets to hot.

 

[WoodBee]

Just a reminder that fluorescent lights strobe at 60 cycles per second ....

If my memory serves me right, it flashes on the positive AND negative slope of the sine, so actually double the frequency. That would be 100 Hz over here and 120Hz on your side of the ocean. Also, as mentioned before, this was mainly on older fluorescents, technical improvements in the tubes reduce these effects in newer tubes.

Peter

 

[Tozguy]

I remember when that was true. It doesn't seem to be that bad now. I saw a faint ghost when I placed a piece of white tape on a black Delrin rod and spun it in the lathe. I suspect that the phosphors that they use now have a longer persistence. Some of the newer fluorescent fixtures are using high frequency excitation which wouldn't exhibit the strobing phenomenon.

However, LED lighting has surpassed the efficiency of fluorescent so I am in the process of converting to LED lighting anyway.

I suspected that was the case. And as you indicated there are other reasons to phase away from fluorescents. Still I think we should be aware of the potential problem with fluorescents until they don't show up anymore at flea markets.

 

[Cobra]

I use a LED driving light meant for ATVs that I got from Princess Auto (Canada HF).
Posted some photos here: http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/lathe-light.57486/

 

[gr8legs]

However, LED lighting has surpassed the efficiency of fluorescent so I am in the process of converting to LED lighting anyway.

Keep in mind that LEDs are also subject to 2x line frequency strobing unless they are powered by a well-filtered DC power supply. Most of the cheapies are not!

Stu

 

[SergeNelissen]

We all make do with what we have laying around more often than we care to admit. I had a drafting table style of lamp that needed a purpose & my lathe work needed illuminating. That lamp, of necessity has received new aluminum brackets along the way - just to keep me going. This cannot last & since mine is a combo, it is only half the solution at best. Please share your lighting solutions for your own setup (pics welcome)! Of coarse solutions to my dilemma will also be welcome

My current setup soon. Sorry, dealing with a sudden death in the community. So share: I need ideas!

Look at these... LED, IP67, very high build quality, ...
http://brightmach.eu




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[markba633csi]

IIRC the newer electronic ballasts like for T8 style lamps run the lamp at a much higher frequency than 60 hz and the strobing is minimal or zero. I think CFLs are that way too
Mark S.

 

[mksj]

Not a big fan of florescent bulbs, technology is antiquated, they are bulky, the light color is often poor, they do not do well in the cold, .... I am systematically replacing all of them in my house and garage with LEDs bulbs, just can't see a reason to use them anymore and they are less energy efficient than LEDs. I have used landscape lights on my machines in the past, either multiple LED arrays or a single large square LED in a metal housing. Landscape, automotive and ATV lights put our a lot of light, but sometimes it is hard to get the proper light spectrum (always seem to be too yellow or too blue) and sometimes they can be very bright. I try to minimize shadows by having 2-3 light sources. On the lathe I replaced the Halogen bulb in my arm light with a high output MR16 flood bulb made by Philips, which puts out the same lumens as a 75W halogen. I run a high output LED strip light under the back lip of the splash shield, so it provides very nice even back lighting of the whole machine and minimal glare because it is under the lip. All the bulbs are in the 3500-4500K range with a CRI of something like 90. The Philips MR-16 bulb and the 40" led strip light was under $40, they run off the machine's low voltage power supply. http://www.ebay.com/itm/PHILIPS-8-5...000K-Flood-Light-Bulb-75w-equiv-/191864159345

The lathe is under the garage door when open, otherwise I would add some ceiling lights. But the lights on the machine minimize any shadows. I also use a LED light bar on my mill along with a LED ring light, I find it very easy on the eyes and everything stays cool.