Leveling a benchtop lathe 10x30

Ok, lets get you lined out on some things first. On your lathe; it should be bolted to a sturdy bench and then level the bench; I'd be more concerned about twisting the bed doing it the way you are now. The other issue with not having it down tight against the chip pan is the pan will leak. Your lathe looks like a PM from Quality Machine Tools. There stuff is pretty decent, most of the smaller lathes are pretty rigid and are made to be bolted to a bench or an optional stand. If you need some help with design on a stand I'd be happy to help. Do you have access to welding?

Ok now as far as tools go; I think your confusing some tool names dial calipers are for measuring inside and outside dimensions vs. dial indicators/test indicators which measure but more for set up.

Kind of a standard starting set would be 0-1" micrometer, 6" scale with 1/8 & 1/16 divisions on one side and 1/32 & 1/64" on the other. 6" dial caliper (will get you larger sizes and the ability to measure ID and depth) Simple dial indicator set like Starrett model 196. I'd also add a 12" combination square and scriber as you will need these for layout and many other tasks. I'm assuming you have things like a ball pein hammer and center punch just keep adding tools as you need and can afford them. You can see YouTube videos by OxTool and Tubelcain for what other tools to add, but these items will get you going.

You indicated your on a budget so Id check for the items you need on EBay, I looked earlier today and there, as usual, are some good deals to be had.
 
I bolted down to chip pan 1st and found it tilting backside toward wall.
The chip pan appears to be very unlevel.

I will remove shims and post a couple pics what that looks like.

to me the bolt through pc of lathe is not level front to back on the same boot, let alone from head to tail.
 
Yea, take some photos both close ups and from a distance so we can see the lathe, chip pan and stand
 
Ok, here's where I am at, lifted the lathe up, 3-point harness style.

Re set the lathe on the chip tray, drilled the holes at the head stock end and bolted all 3 spots down.

It is a lot more square looking at the chip tray, but about the same at the level end of things.

To me it appears the head stock end needs to shim up and the wall side needs a shim up to square up this thing.

Let me know what you think.

Thanks, Jay

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For measuring, you have a digital caliper. No need for a dial caliper. Note, calipers and micrometers are NOT the same. Calipers are great for quick measurements, but you need a micrometer for more precision. Fowler seems to make decent stuff. Here's what I started with for measuring, I've added some nicer gear as deals and budget allowed.

1" travel 0.0005 graduations dial indicator. (Shars)
Noga style mag base for indicators. (ebay)
6" digital calipers. (Harbor Freight)
0-1" digital micrometer. (Harbor Freight)
6" machinist scale. (Shars)
Layout fluid. (dychem)

It's all budget stuff, but works well enough for getting started. And you won't be too upset if you break them. While learning, they are more accurate than you are. If you get a good deal on big name gear in decent shape, pick it up.

And you can use the HF calipers for layout and such without feeling bad about it. :)

For a scribe, buy a cheap one, but it makes a great simple lathe project to make one. Clickspring on YouTube has a great video published by Make magazine showing one. I used aluminum rather than brass as I had it and aluminum is much cheaper. ;)


Leveling the lathe... Use the bench to level the way you have pictured, down the long axis. It's not really required in that direction, but it helps keep things from rolling off the bench. To start, do the same the other direction. From here you need a precision level or just use RDM/2 collar tests. The precision level speeds the process, but if budget is tight you can make do.

Shims can make it tough. If you want an easier way, make something like this...

Emco lathe leveling config.PNG
 
P. Waller said:
With a machine that length the casting will be so rigid that you would have to bolt it to a rigid surface and use the screws to force it to twist, if indeed it were a long turn machine with a small swing, say 10" X 100" this would be different.
A 1:3 DL ratio machine would not require such ministrations unless it is very lightly made.

However tilting in the direction of the coolant drains is a plus, never forget the coolant flow.
Click to expand...

One thing that has become apparent too me over the years is there is no such thing as a perfect alignment; only the alignment we're willing to live with. This holds true for manufactures, both American and Chinese. Even if a machine were impeccably aligned in the factory, there is no guaranty that castings didn't change with age or that the machine didn't get rudely jostled during shipment.

My 10 x 22 lathe's inspection report states that to pass inspection, the ways will be out of parallel with the spindle axis in the horizontal plane by no more than .03mm/50mm. This amounts to .0036" over 6". I don't know of many on this forum that would be content with that.

Small lathes are not as rigid as you might think. On my 10 x 22 lathe, I see a deflection of .001" in the vertical plane and .003" in the horizontal plane with 10lbs. of applied force.
 
Ok now we can see what you have. First off if you grab your bench and give it a good wiggle is it solid? If so then you dont need the next step. If it wiggles then I would add some 45 degree braces between the top and the legs.

Next does your level sit flat across the top of the carriage where your checking? If not you can use two strips of adding machine paper, one under each end of the level to make sure your not teter tottering in the center. (Id prob do this anyway)

Then I would bolt the lathe to the bench with no shims and check the level. Looks like the front of the machine is high so put some shims under the back legs until you get close. Then use some door/window wedge shims, any lumber yard or big box store will have them in a pack for a few dollars.

Having a helper will be, well helpful here, to tap in the shims while you watch the level till the head is level then the tail then check the head again until you have it as close as you can with the level you have. Then I'd do the run in procedure on the machine and re-check it as it may settle a bit. Then just see how it cuts with the two ring test. It does not need to be level length wise so long as it cuts.
 
My point with buying decent condition used name brand Micrometers and such is that you get the quality tool that has a very long life for the same price as the cheap stuff and you end up not having to replace it. I buy the import stuff for tools I dont use often or as a second tool of the same type but metrology stuff is the heart and soul of what we do as machinists. When I can by a quality well cared for Starrett 0-1 mic for $25 Ill take it over a new unknown quality one any day. Ive got three 0-1, my old one and two that I picked up off EBay for $20-$30 I keep in spots in the shop I always use them. Really unless you throw a mic against the wall or let it rust you can not wear the threads out on them. The 231 series satin chrome finish Starrett really hold up to use.

If you buy a few tools to get going and add as you need and can afford them you will have what you need in no time, I have really gotten many quality tools from retired guys, estate sales and the online sources. Got a set of Starrett 12" Scales and the straight and 90* clamps to put them together a few weeks back for $25 all in. Don't really "need" them but someday Im sure they will be exactly what I need for a job. If not some young man or woman is going to love buying my Kennedy boxes full of tools when I can no longer use them
 
RJSakowski , When you say your G0602 has a headstock adjustment, are you talking about loosening the 4 screws and moving the headstock manually? I have the G0752 which is the same except for vfd right.... and that is the only way I know of adjusting it. Thanks
 
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