Lets talk Workholding and milling sheet goods

DMS

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There is a topic I have struggled with since I started with CNC, namely milling 2d parts from thing stock, specifically when you just want to cut the exterior shape, and don't want to modify the thickness. Here are the issues I have run into.

1) It's one huge slot, if you're not careful you have issues with chip evacuation. Lately I have found that if I keep the depth of cut less than 1/2 the cutter diameter, things work out ok, but when the material get's thicker, it's still an issue. Rougher mills help, but it still gives me fits.

2) "Release" of the part from the parent material when you make it all the way through. AlibreCAM has an option for leaving tabs, but it doesn't work very well on small or complex parts, and it requires additional cleanup. My main problem with the feature in AlibreCAM is that you can't adjust tab location, and it often puts them in just about the worst location possible. The other option is to leave a small amount of material (don't cut all the way through), but then you have to clean up around the whole part. Just letting it fall away usually results in some nasty gouges, or failure to finish the final pass.

3) Overheating on the final cut. This is especially true on steel when making multiple passes. I have had issues in the past where the cutter overheats because the amount of heat flowing into the part drops of when the bottom of the slot gets thin. The solution is of course to slow down, but it's not always obvious until it happens.

I see these large gantry routers zipping through sheet goods lickety-split. True, mostly it is wood or plastic, but seems like the difference between that and wood should just be speed right?

Mostly what I do now is start with thicker flat stock, machine the part with a base of waste material that gets clamped in the vice. When the part is done, I flip it over and mill off the wast. But this is an extra step, and seems kind of wasteful in terms of material and time ESPECIALLY on parts where I don't care about the accuracy of the part height.

So, what are others doing? Do you have strategies you use for this type of machining?
 
A few questions first:

What diameter tool are you using? What spindle speed? Routers are normally an order of magnitude faster at the spindle than most milling machines.

Are you using coolant? If so, what type? How is it being delivered?

For thin materials, I send it to be water jet cut rather than machining them.
 
I keep my spindle speed to about 3k or lower. Typically I use mist coolant with alum or plastic for cooling and chip evacuation. Tool size varies, typically 0.25 or 0.375" diameter 2 flute or 3 flute mills (mostly carbide).

Waterjet of course would be an option, but is more money, and I have this big fancy machine ;)

I guess implicit in that statement may be that this is just something that many people have issues with, and I need to either suck it up, or send things out to laster/waterjet if I don't want to deal (or, continue doing what I have been doing).
 
I find in many applications that carpet tape works great for holding small parts. There are several grades of carpet tape available at the local Ace Hardware, but if you really want to stick the parts down, Gorilla brand double sided tape works great. Xylene seems to be the best solvent for the tape. Another option is a vacuum chuck, works great on the larger pieces.

Also where possible I will design in bolt holes in the part just for hold down.
 
I have always been worried about trying to remove the tape after the part was done (afraid of bending/braking it). For the part I just made, that might have been an option though... I'll see if the local store carries the gorrilla double sided.
 
Also where possible I will design in bolt holes in the part just for hold down.


We must ask Nels to add a "Why I never thought about this?" button to the standard emoticons :biggrin:
This seems to me a Great Idea™: bolt holes can be used to hold in place the sections of the part which have to be removed until the milling is finished.
Even if they are irrelevant for the complete part (usually the inside of holes is scrapped), they make the work safer and quicker (and cleaner than tape).
I mean…

part_with_hole.png

… if my part have to be the blue piece, I'll drill the bolt holes into it, both those on the perimeter for the main part and those (yellow) to hold down the "hole". Then I'll attach the whole unmachined part to a sacrificial "tooling board" and mill along the red line, without to have to mind where the inside (white) part will fly when it will be totally separated from the outside.
I'm sure skilled machinists use this, or a similar, method, but maybe this could be an useful hint for beginners.

part_with_hole.png
 
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This is an example part (the most recent one in fact) that I sometimes struggle with. The thickness is not critical, so I first tried to cut it from a piece of 1/4" flat bar. I left 0.020" at the bottom. It worked, but I spent as much time with a file cleaning it up as I did cutting the part (well, technically, I think it was longer). On this part, the height is pretty large relative the area of the base, so I would not be too worried about bending it when removing the tape, but I am a little worried that the tape would release on the final pass. I guess I need to try that fancy pants gorilla tape ;).
carriage_bracket.jpg

carriage_bracket.jpg
 
View attachment 80568[/QUOTE]

I would buy 5/8 X 2 1/4 bar stock, cut the blanks .40-.45 long, clamp in a vise. Use a 3/8 end mill and cut the part profile down .26 deep then turn the part over in the vice and face off the excess.

Kevin
 
Let me see if I can pass the workholding lesson using DMS's part… :)

In the drawing below the the blue is the vise (a Kurt?), the gray is the raw metal, the green is what I have to get, the orange what I have to mill.

workholding.png

Of course this requires a lot of time, so I guess it's not suitable for production parts, but for a Saturday afternoon could be good.

workholding.png
 
Stand a piece of bar up in the vise, mill the cross-section into the end, and then saw off the part? If you have a slitting saw it's one setup, one tool change for as many parts as you have usable length on your cutter.
 
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