Lathing question.....

If it were me, I'd hack saw off about 11-12" of it stick it in the chuck, center drill and support the other end on a live center and turn it.

When finished turning to diameter, flip the part and either part or hack saw off the unturned part. Done.
 
Best to cut the stock off first an inch or two long, center drill one end, and chuck the piece so you can turn it down in one length; I would not turn it between centers, as there is much greater tendency to chatter doing it that way. Only turn between centers to ensure concentricity when a part must be turned around for work on the other end.
 
You don't say what the material is. Unless it is thin wall plastic tubing you won't get bar whip with a 7/8" bar with only 2 feet through the spindle. I would face, center drill and turn with a live center as you said. Part off and face the parted end to length. No reason to waste a few inches of material.
 
Firstgear said:
Spindle spider, out the other end of the spindle, 4 bolts that contact the shaft to help give support to the work piece so the chuck bearings aren’t “loaded” in a cantilevered fashion.....
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OK then, you don't have to worry about whip in a 36'' bar held concentric in the outboard end using a spider. So now I'm with the fellas above who would hold in a 4 jaw to face and cut a centre divot, extend the bar out 11'' and support the tail end with a live centre. Not sure how straight the jaws are on your 4 jaw so check that everything lines up. After turning to final o.d. part to length.
 
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You will probably want a spider, sooner or later. I made one but made a dumb mistake. I should have made a test part that matched the threads on the end of the spindle first. That way I could test the fit W/O removing the work and loosing my thread position.
 
jbolt said:
You don't say what the material is. Unless it is thin wall plastic tubing you won't get bar whip with a 7/8" bar with only 2 feet through the spindle. I would face, center drill and turn with a live center as you said. Part off and face the parted end to length. No reason to waste a few inches of material.
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12L14......
 
Larry42 said:
You will probably want a spider, sooner or later. I made one but made a dumb mistake. I should have made a test part that matched the threads on the end of the spindle first. That way I could test the fit W/O removing the work and loosing my thread position.
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My lathe came with a spider.....
 
mmcmdl said:
Hacksaw ? They still make them? :big grin:

32 years ago I walked into my production managers office with a tooling req loaded with Valenite insert drills and cutters . He looked at it and nearly fainted ! He asked what in the heii do we need these for ? I explained to him that he had a brand new , very large Makino VMC running production with HSS tooling at a snails pace . He didn't understand what I was saying , and stated the tools are cutting . I simply told him a file also cuts , and when those HSS tools give out , I'll send my men up on the platem with files to cut his parts out . :rolleyes: I got my tools . Correct tools for the job .
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For a guy getting started, yes hacksaws still exist. Not every shop is a commercial enterprise.
 
I agree with those above. Spider, face it, center drill, at a slow speed, then extend out and use a live center to hold the tail so you can turn it at normal speed. Not sure how big your headstock its but once you move it out 10 to 11 inches, THen the thickness of your chuck and Headstock, you will not have that much sticking out if supported by the spider on the back side of the head stock. Still watch your speed, but I would think it should still be good. Then you could saw off, with a hack saw and face the other end. I have done that on some stuff smaller that what you are doing it on. I just had to watch my speed. Also did one where I made a support for the outboard end where it kept it in supported and lined up good enough that it did not flop around But that was on a much longer piece than you are talking about.
 
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