Lathes And Tools - What Are The Essentials?

[Wreck™Wreck]

You have not mentioned the part sizes, materials and shapes or quantities that you wish to turn nor if the lathe is stout or wobbly, manual or NC.

If the intended work requires arcs and radii then it will require forming tools if a manual machine, these features can be interpolated with an NC machine. If you decide on inserted tooling and the machine is wobbly choose positive rake tools, buy tools that use a common insert for facing, turning, boring and chamfering, if all tools use the same insert you are ahead of the game.

If the machine is stout and you need to bang out parts all day every day buy tools that perform each operation at maximum speed and depth of cut, you may have to change tools between rough and finish operations.

A CCMT 80 Deg. insert is my go to for facing, turning and boring on parts that are short and thick walled, use the largest nose radius that the operation allows. On long or thin parts that are prone to chatter I use positive rake triangular tools with a small nose radius. WPGT trigon inserts are excellent for roughing operations on a lathe, they often have excellent chip breaking properties.

Good Luck

 

[coffmajt]

Thanks Jim, it's good to know one can go at things economically. I think my grinder is okay. The rests are crap though and one of the wheels probably needs replaced. Harbor freight is harbor freight, but I buy some stuff there. I'll probably buy a 10-pack and see how that goes. I've gotten a few things from them over the years that I expected would be crap, and were, but I've also gotten a few things from them that were okay and still use constantly.

Thanks!

Try to find some Norton wheels that are made to grind tool steel. They will cost about 3 times what a cheap alox wheel will but they will be smooth to grind on, last at least 3 times longer, and best of all, not burn up your tool steel from overheat -- Good luck and enjoy the experience == Jack

 

[Splat]

You need to learn how to grind your own tool bits. That's a definite. Now, having said that, most newbies want to jump right in making chips when we're new. I tried my hand when I got my lathe grinding my own tools. I had a helluva hard time and was not happy with the results. I bought a set of Diamond tangential toolholders. With a .250" HSS bit and the grinding jig that comes with the tool holder you can get excellent results, barring any speed or feed miscalculations. I looked at AR Warner's HSS inserts. What's nice about the Warner inserts is you just pop a HSS insert into the tool and you got a nice new edge. The reason I went with the tangential tool holder was because the only place you can get the HSS inserts is Warner, yet you can find 1/4" HSS stock easily. MOF, I'm still using the same 1/4" bit since I first got the tangential tooling! Touchups are a breeze. The only downer is having to adjust the tool height after sharpening the bit, but it takes 2 seconds. The better grinding wheels to get for HSS bits are white aluminum oxide, usually J-grade. They will grind cooler than the typical grey but you could use the grey. Here's a good place to get Norton wheels at a good price. Get a 60 and 100grit and you should be good to go. Get a good set of micrometers, or an electronic caliper type. I now prefer the analog ratchet stop type of micrometer. You can get a cheap electronic caliper from Harbor Freight to get you started and then maybe you can decide how to proceed to a better one or micrometer. A good dial indicator should also be purchased soon. You could use either the indicator or micrometer or caliper to assist bringing the lathe into alignment since you'll measure test cuts. Oh, good cutting oil like Oatey 30200 Clear Cutting Oil. Get some acid brushes too to apply the oil to the work. OK, time to go eat but that's a lot for you to start thinking about. Cheers.

 

[markamerica]

You have not mentioned the part sizes, materials and shapes or quantities that you wish to turn nor if the lathe is stout or wobbly, manual or NC.

If the intended work requires arcs and radii then it will require forming tools if a manual machine, these features can be interpolated with an NC machine. If you decide on inserted tooling and the machine is wobbly choose positive rake tools, buy tools that use a common insert for facing, turning, boring and chamfering, if all tools use the same insert you are ahead of the game.

If the machine is stout and you need to bang out parts all day every day buy tools that perform each operation at maximum speed and depth of cut, you may have to change tools between rough and finish operations.

A CCMT 80 Deg. insert is my go to for facing, turning and boring on parts that are short and thick walled, use the largest nose radius that the operation allows. On long or thin parts that are prone to chatter I use positive rake triangular tools with a small nose radius. WPGT trigon inserts are excellent for roughing operations on a lathe, they often have excellent chip breaking properties.

Good Luck

Wreck,

Thanks. The lathe I wound up buying is here, I think on page 3 or 4 of this thread. It's a manual Martin DLZ, 2 meters between centers, and 50cm of swing. It needs its electrical system completely re-done. Basically, I got such a good price on it that I figured it was worth the risk. It's likely that primarily for farm usages, I will make parts of all sizes. Truth is, looking at the things I'm actually likely to make, I think I figured 45" should probably be the longest thing I'll ever need to make as of now(though you know how that can go...could wind up making something longer.) Some things will be steel, and a few aluminum. I'll also probably try my hand at a few firearms-related things, and will likely manufacture a few things for my R/C airplane hobby on it. Truth is, it will be a wide variety over time. I won't be a production shop, so no need to bang out parts day in and out.

Thanks!

Mark

 

[markamerica]

Try to find some Norton wheels that are made to grind tool steel. They will cost about 3 times what a cheap alox wheel will but they will be smooth to grind on, last at least 3 times longer, and best of all, not burn up your tool steel from overheat -- Good luck and enjoy the experience == Jack

Making a note right now. Thanks Jack. Certain things cost more but are worth more in the better results they produce.

Mark

 

[markamerica]

You need to learn how to grind your own tool bits. That's a definite. Now, having said that, most newbies want to jump right in making chips when we're new. I tried my hand when I got my lathe grinding my own tools. I had a helluva hard time and was not happy with the results. I bought a set of Diamond tangential toolholders. With a .250" HSS bit and the grinding jig that comes with the tool holder you can get excellent results, barring any speed or feed miscalculations. I looked at AR Warner's HSS inserts. What's nice about the Warner inserts is you just pop a HSS insert into the tool and you got a nice new edge. The reason I went with the tangential tool holder was because the only place you can get the HSS inserts is Warner, yet you can find 1/4" HSS stock easily. MOF, I'm still using the same 1/4" bit since I first got the tangential tooling! Touchups are a breeze. The only downer is having to adjust the tool height after sharpening the bit, but it takes 2 seconds. The better grinding wheels to get for HSS bits are white aluminum oxide, usually J-grade. They will grind cooler than the typical grey but you could use the grey. Here's a good place to get Norton wheels at a good price. Get a 60 and 100grit and you should be good to go. Get a good set of micrometers, or an electronic caliper type. I now prefer the analog ratchet stop type of micrometer. You can get a cheap electronic caliper from Harbor Freight to get you started and then maybe you can decide how to proceed to a better one or micrometer. A good dial indicator should also be purchased soon. You could use either the indicator or micrometer or caliper to assist bringing the lathe into alignment since you'll measure test cuts. Oh, good cutting oil like Oatey 30200 Clear Cutting Oil. Get some acid brushes too to apply the oil to the work. OK, time to go eat but that's a lot for you to start thinking about. Cheers.

Splat, I will learn that, if it kills me. Let's hope it doesn't take that... You'd be surprised at my patience. I've done a little very rudimentary lathe work in the past. VERY rudimentary. I've also improvised a lathe for a few things over time. And I've used wood lathes many times. The table on which my big feet are now resting is supported by four spindles I turned on a lathe in my garage 20-odd years ago. So while it will be a bit exciting to get the Martin up and running, and makes some chips with it, I'm not so new to this that I'll be giddy over it. More will be over getting the lathe running. I may squeal like a little girl over that... I have an ancient 1" micrometer and I have the aforementioned cheap digital calipers from HF and a digital indicator also from HF. Good enough for the things I've needed them for, though I'd like to get a real dial indicator. I always get the feeling there's a little lag in the digital... Not much, but a little. I'm going to take a look at the toolholders you mentioned. I've got about a million of the little rolled metal tube hobby brushes I use for applying oil to moving drill bits and such. I buy them in boxes of 250... Cheap, lots of uses, and work okay. Norton seems to be the crowd favorite for wheels, and this isn't the first place I've had them recommended to me. Friend of mine nearby swears by them, and I think he has at least 4 grinders around his shop, various wheels, sizes, but that's the way he likes it. Interesting. I'll be taking a look at everybody's recommendations in detail. My list is surely growing. One of the things I'm going to want to figure out is everything I'll need for threading. Threading is one of the things I expect I'll do often once I figure it all out.

One of these days soon, I'm going to ask some really dumb questions... Warned you guys on day 1, I've got unlimited numbers of 'em. For right now, I'm making notes. It's a habit I have when working on things... I keep a grid-lined notebook handy. Nice for organizing thoughts, drawing little pictures, making lists, etc. I find it helps me keep moving in the right direction. You folk have been a huge help already.

Thanks!

Mark

 

[talvare]

Try to find some Norton wheels that are made to grind tool steel. They will cost about 3 times what a cheap alox wheel will but they will be smooth to grind on, last at least 3 times longer, and best of all, not burn up your tool steel from overheat -- Good luck and enjoy the experience == Jack

Mark,

Jack's advice about buying the proper grinding wheel is very good. You said you need a new wheel anyway, so do yourself a big favor and buy a dedicated wheel for grinding HSS. You will be glad you did. The link below is an example of a good wheel for grinding your HSS tools. I don't know what diameter wheels your grinder takes, but the link below is for a 6" x 3/4" wheel that is an example of what you need. Norton also makes these in 8" diameter and other widths as well. Basically you want a wheel with the following specs: 38A60H8VBE (the number 8 in this case indicates an 8" wheel).

https://www.zoro.com/norton-grinding-wheel-t1-6x34x1-ao-60g-wht-07660788246/i/G0826962/

Ted

 

[markamerica]

Ted,

Thanks! My old grinder is a 6" and has 6" diameter, 3/4" wide wheels. Both wheels are in pretty bad shape at this point, I was looking, and my son-in-law used it last, and he put a heckuva groove in the side of one of the wheels. Not sure what the heck he was grinding... Apparently, a little supervision might have been good. He's a good kid, tries hard, actually very smart, and follows directions better than I did at his age, but I think he has learned whatever he knows mostly on his own. He's a good dad to my granddaughter, and that's all I care about anyway...

So Norton wheels are firmly on the list.

Thanks!

Mark

 

[bfd]

good question. there are too many first tools you should have. If we look at lathe work since you just got a lathe, a drill chuck that fits the tailstock. you say you have drill bits good you need to hold them on the lathe. others talked about tool bits, tool holders and something to
measure with. a center drill to start your hole on center. keep your eye on your local craigslist tool section. I have over the years picked up some great deals. A dial indicator of some type with a magnetic base. check shars, enco ebay machinist tools. one I like is cdco lots of cheap but usable tools. bill

 

[Cadillac STS]

Something to mention about Craigslist and I know most people probably already do this but to state the obvious:

Don't just look at what comes by day by day. Use the search bar and search for what you want. Type in "Lathe" and get all the past ads that are still active. Have gotten things like that and sometimes the comment is "No one ever called about it."

Search local Craigslist and cities around you as well because a short drive can be worth what there is to buy especially with something heavy needing a trailer. What is 30 minutes on the road once you are out?