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- Feb 13, 2017
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- 2,138
ayeah, I hit the wrong key, 5 over 7. And you caught it before I could get back to edit. Thanks though.
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lathe
- Thread starter 256
- Start date
- Joined
- May 16, 2016
- Messages
- 1,704
Member 256 has asked our advice and maniy of us have asked him for more information, but he has not come back to us with that info so we are really just guessing as to what his purpose is.
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2017
- Messages
- 2,138
Actually, he was pretty clear (from the perspective of an old school electrician) in what he wanted. Basicaly, with little practical knowledge of machine work, he wants to learn machining. Like most of us, he wants to start with something he has an understanding of. That's always a good starting point.
I got into the electrical field because I wanted to make my model trains run better. That branched out to become an electrical engineer and provided a lifetime of employment. See www.hudsontelcom.com in a paper about home shop electrics. It has been clipped short for liability purposes. Ya got to restrain those lawyers, ya know. But at 50 pages, still an extensive read. But worth it, if you want to understand the nuts and bolts of how your machine works. And written by a man that has little formal schooling. (I did finish the 7th grade)
The machining came much later, but also to work on my trains. And do smaller, and finer, work. And bigger models, although at that size, 1/5 scale, they aren't considered models anymore, they're minatures. Any time you start something new, find a known reference point and go from there. You never know where you'll end up.
I got into the electrical field because I wanted to make my model trains run better. That branched out to become an electrical engineer and provided a lifetime of employment. See www.hudsontelcom.com in a paper about home shop electrics. It has been clipped short for liability purposes. Ya got to restrain those lawyers, ya know. But at 50 pages, still an extensive read. But worth it, if you want to understand the nuts and bolts of how your machine works. And written by a man that has little formal schooling. (I did finish the 7th grade)
The machining came much later, but also to work on my trains. And do smaller, and finer, work. And bigger models, although at that size, 1/5 scale, they aren't considered models anymore, they're minatures. Any time you start something new, find a known reference point and go from there. You never know where you'll end up.
Bill Hudson
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2017
- Messages
- 2,138
Your stipulation of the linking of the toolpost to the spindle means thread cutting capability. Most of the machines of any size today have that, to one extent or another. Most any machine from 6 inch or more will have it. Buying used puts you on your own. Whatever you buy, you would find support for it here. Buying new would get costly real fast but also get some support from the manufacturer.
At the low end (less than $2000) would be (in ascending order) Harbor Freight, Grizzly, and any number of discount tool suppliers. A little further up the scale would be LMS, Little Machine Shop, another well known on-line supplier. It goes up from there. As a rule of thumb, most machines today (and all the cheap ones) will have been made in China. There are a few that are made in Europe, but while good, they get real expensive, real fast.
Again, buying used will usually be cheaper. Good for learning, such a machine will lack many specialty devices but can be written off in its' entirity once you know a little about what you're doing. The big problem is with the seller, who often knows little, or nothing, about machine shop equipment. Or what goes bad on a used one. One option there is to find recommendations from someone that can physically look at the machine and judge whether or not the machine is really worth the asking price.
The big issue here is your stated desire to learn from a given reference point. Pipe threading means a fairly big machine. It will get real expensive, real fast. And takes a lot of space. The one advantage is that most specialty tooling can be passed down to a "keeper" machine. Again, you're on your own there.
My advice, such as it is, is locate something really cheap and learn what you must know. Then take it from there. Beyond that, advice is much like ***holes, everybody has one and most of them smell pretty bad. I'm not a machinist so most of my opinion should be taken with quite a lot (as opposed to a grain) of salt. At your stage, Harbor Freight is as good as any. Their 6X12 does cut threads, but with plastic gears. About all it has going for it is that it fits within your budget. You seldom find them used, most people put it up on a shelf or throw it out when they acquire a bigger one. Whatever you buy, make sure you get the loose gears with it. They are real important.
At the low end (less than $2000) would be (in ascending order) Harbor Freight, Grizzly, and any number of discount tool suppliers. A little further up the scale would be LMS, Little Machine Shop, another well known on-line supplier. It goes up from there. As a rule of thumb, most machines today (and all the cheap ones) will have been made in China. There are a few that are made in Europe, but while good, they get real expensive, real fast.
Again, buying used will usually be cheaper. Good for learning, such a machine will lack many specialty devices but can be written off in its' entirity once you know a little about what you're doing. The big problem is with the seller, who often knows little, or nothing, about machine shop equipment. Or what goes bad on a used one. One option there is to find recommendations from someone that can physically look at the machine and judge whether or not the machine is really worth the asking price.
The big issue here is your stated desire to learn from a given reference point. Pipe threading means a fairly big machine. It will get real expensive, real fast. And takes a lot of space. The one advantage is that most specialty tooling can be passed down to a "keeper" machine. Again, you're on your own there.
My advice, such as it is, is locate something really cheap and learn what you must know. Then take it from there. Beyond that, advice is much like ***holes, everybody has one and most of them smell pretty bad. I'm not a machinist so most of my opinion should be taken with quite a lot (as opposed to a grain) of salt. At your stage, Harbor Freight is as good as any. Their 6X12 does cut threads, but with plastic gears. About all it has going for it is that it fits within your budget. You seldom find them used, most people put it up on a shelf or throw it out when they acquire a bigger one. Whatever you buy, make sure you get the loose gears with it. They are real important.
Bill Hudson
- Joined
- May 16, 2016
- Messages
- 1,704
I always remember some sage advice "good aint cheap, and cheap aint good"
But whatever you choose to do, good luck with it.
Can you talk to your employer about your desire to learn machining threads, is it possible he could help, some instruction perhaps, or even the use of his machines, and or some advice on second hand machines he may know of. Are you wanting to learn thread cutting so as to be of more use to your employer or just curiosity. If you show some enthusiasm for thread cutting would he be prepared to train you and put you to work on the threading jobs.
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2018
- Messages
- 5,920
Simple really.
If one desires to single point Tapered Pipe Threads then buy a machine capable of doing so on the pipe sizes required.
There is no magic here simply the limitations of the machine itself.
Single pointing such threads requires much less power when cutting and far less work holding force. One of the problems with tapping and die cutting pipe threads is holding the work in a traditional engine lathe chuck, the part will spin in the chuck well before you develop enough force to break the tool in pipe over 1 1/2 NPT.
I do a recurring job for the local Municipal water treatment plant, normally 2-4 parts per month. They are 2 1/2 NPT threads on each end, they supply the material, 304 SS in 24-60" lengths. I use a common Rigid die head with SS specific inserts held in a 24" 3 Jaw chuck on a W&S turret lathe that is 5" through the spindle and has a 25 HP spindle motor. This setup produces excellent threads but will easily spin the part in the chuck. If you want to die cut pipe threads purchase a pipe chuck for this purpose.
The limiting factor for any lathe is the spindle bore therefore choose a machine with the minimum spindle bore that your parts require.
This makes the decision very simple.
Look for "Oil Field" lathes, these are exactly what you want (-:
If one desires to single point Tapered Pipe Threads then buy a machine capable of doing so on the pipe sizes required.
There is no magic here simply the limitations of the machine itself.
Single pointing such threads requires much less power when cutting and far less work holding force. One of the problems with tapping and die cutting pipe threads is holding the work in a traditional engine lathe chuck, the part will spin in the chuck well before you develop enough force to break the tool in pipe over 1 1/2 NPT.
I do a recurring job for the local Municipal water treatment plant, normally 2-4 parts per month. They are 2 1/2 NPT threads on each end, they supply the material, 304 SS in 24-60" lengths. I use a common Rigid die head with SS specific inserts held in a 24" 3 Jaw chuck on a W&S turret lathe that is 5" through the spindle and has a 25 HP spindle motor. This setup produces excellent threads but will easily spin the part in the chuck. If you want to die cut pipe threads purchase a pipe chuck for this purpose.
The limiting factor for any lathe is the spindle bore therefore choose a machine with the minimum spindle bore that your parts require.
This makes the decision very simple.
Look for "Oil Field" lathes, these are exactly what you want (-: