Lathe Order Of Operations?

M

mzvarner

Registered
Registered
Joined
Apr 7, 2016
Messages
77
I am new to the mini lathe (machining in general). I have a few basic books, but have not seen this addressed yet. Is there an order of operations when making a part? I think facing is always step one, but after that is it best to drill, bore, turn, angle? I have run into a few issues with some intro projects where I turned an angle to early then did not know how to hold the part (luckily it was threaded so I chucked it with a bolt holding it).
 
Order of operation is one of the most critical considerations in machining. As far as I know there is not much in writing on this subject because no two setups are the same. As you gain experience, you will ''see'' the order of operations. Unless it's a very simple part with only one setup I always machine the entire project in my head before I ever make a chip. Spend the time to just sit and think about how you are going to hang on to, and machine the part during each operation. Many times on complex parts I spend more time thinking about how to do it than the actual machining time.
 
JimDawson said:
Order of operation is one of the most critical considerations in machining. As far as I know there is not much in writing on this subject because no two setups are the same. As you gain experience, you will ''see'' the order of operations. Unless it's a very simple part with only one setup I always machine the entire project in my head before I ever make a chip. Spend the time to just sit and think about how you are going to hang on to, and machine the part during each operation. Many times on complex parts I spend more time thinking about how to do it than the actual machining time.
Click to expand...
Welcome to the forum.
+1 to what Jim said. Also think about reducing or eliminating additional setups to the greatest extent possible. If you will have to take the part out and reinstall it, think about how reference surfaces can be picked up quickly and accurately again. It is very easy to get mostly done with a part and then have no good choice for continuing the work. Don't work yourself into a corner. Every project you do is training for future work flow planning.
The six "P"s: Prior Planning Prevents Pi$$ Poor Performance.
 
Last edited:
Another concept is thinking outside the box. You can leave additional stock on the work specifically for work locating and holding later on in the job. You can machine features strictly for indexing the work for a later operation, saving time and effort. At the end, cut the workholding and layout bits off if desired. Saves time and gains accuracy.
 
Last edited:
Like Jim said think the whole project through before you even chuck it up.
I was taught to plan my steps so as to get as much done with out removing the work from the chuck.
Check your stock first.Face and put a center in it then run it out past where you need it and move up the tail stock with a lubed dead center and spin it to check for out of round or bends. Make sure it's large enough to hold plus extra for cutting off.
If you have to remove it from the chuck mark the jaw on the work so you can put it back in the same place.
Once you are ready to machine stop and think it through again.
A 20 minute machine job can take 3 times as long to plan then to do.
If you run into a problem ask us. Take a picture as that will help us give you the right advice.
*G*
 
I try to figure out just how the project is going to go. Maybe its because I'm still green at this, but there always seems to be something that I didn't anticipate. The more complex the part, the more likely that it will not go as I planned. One of the things that I had to come to terms with was being willing to change the setup or just chuck it and start over when that 'oops' moment occurs. Trying to force something is a great way to make little pieces of scrap out of perfectly good metal. Two things will make life with your mini lathe a lot happier. One is a decent indicator and holder, and the other is a 4-jaw chuck. Getting stock to run true after taking it out of an import 3-jaw is really hard without switching to a 4-jaw.
 
The order of operations depends upon the parts requirements mostly. An example might be two surfaces that need concentricity are most easily done in one set up, if you have to remove and reinsert the part to a three jaw chuck you will have some run out but may preserve paralism. But for certain operations this may be fine like clearence holes etc.

Stuart
 
Another tip is after you cut off your work face and center drill the remaining stock in the lathe. Saves time for your next project.
*G*
 
Quite frankly the operation order is up to the operator (YOU). The very first step is to orient yourself to the print or prints. You need to know the part before you can machine it. After time goes by it will become quite obvious where to begin. Time and practice, over and over again. Dig in for the long haul, the learning never ends.

"Billy G"
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top