Lagun Ftv-1

[bjornsh67]

Hi ski,

Thanks for posting all the pictures. looks like you got yourself a nice mill.

I do have a similar Lagun FTV-1. I have not started the cleaning of my mill yet - still waiting to get 3 phase power and I need to clear out old chips from the control box. So, even though the spindle is "running" smooth by hand turning, I really do not know the true state of it.

The ways still have visible flaking marks and "apparently" has low millage.

I will post pictures later.......

Bjorn

 

[Ski]

Hi ski,

Thanks for posting all the pictures. looks like you got yourself a nice mill.

I do have a similar Lagun FTV-1. I have not started the cleaning of my mill yet - still waiting to get 3 phase power and I need to clear out old chips from the control box. So, even though the spindle is "running" smooth by hand turning, I really do not know the true state of it.

The ways still have visible flaking marks and "apparently" has low millage.

I will post pictures later.......

Bjorn

I used a staic phase converter on this one. It was given with the mill. I added a seperate switch to shutoff power completly to the converter but I could probably have left that out. I thought it may help the caps live if not charged all the time. I'll add pics later as well. Hope to see your machine pics. Ski

 

[John Hasler]

I used a staic phase converter on this one. It was given with the mill. I added a seperate switch to shutoff power completly to the converter but I could probably have left that out. I thought it may help the caps live if not charged all the time. I'll add pics later as well. Hope to see your machine pics. Ski

A "static converter" is not really a way of converting single phase to three phase. It's more a way of converting a three-phase motor into a capacitor-start capacitor-run single phase motor. The correct way to wire these, IMHO, is to wire the "converter" directly to the motor and treat the resulting assembly as a single-phase motor.

 

[Ski]

A "static converter" is not really a way of converting single phase to three phase. It's more a way of converting a three-phase motor into a capacitor-start capacitor-run single phase motor. The correct way to wire these, IMHO, is to wire the "converter" directly to the motor and treat the resulting assembly as a single-phase motor.

Hi John, I have the line from the wall running into a on/off then the converter to the machine. My goal whether right or wrong was to remove power from the converter completly when not in use. It does start easy in all speed ranges and seems to work well . I have not run it for more that about 3/4 or so of an hour yet, but it did not seem to get warm at all. I will post the schematic I used if I can find it to scan. Thanks for the comments. Ski

 

[John Hasler]

Hi John, I have the line from the wall running into a on/off then the converter to the machine. My goal whether right or wrong was to remove power from the converter completly when not in use. It does start easy in all speed ranges and seems to work well . I have not run it for more that about 3/4 or so of an hour yet, but it did not seem to get warm at all. I will post the schematic I used if I can find it to scan. Thanks for the comments. Ski

Sounds like you've already done as I suggested.

I've been running my Avey with a shop-made static converter for about a year and a half. Works well. Only good for about two HP out of the three HP motor, but that's more than I need. I'm using the original controller rewired for single phase.

 

[tonlin]

These are pictures of the fine feed wheel which was cracked through the spinner handle threads. A new one was expensive at around probably 80 bucks including shipping. I filed it clean and used some wire for reinforcing and then epoxied a nutsert that I scavenged out of a piece of old furniture. 1/4x20 thead I think but better steel than plastic threads.Then I made my first ever knurled spinner knob for it. Painted it a wrinkle paint. I should note that I modified a couple bridgeport parts to fit this machine but I am unwilling to buy something I was not sure would fit so that said,there may be other interchangeable parts maybe even this wheel. Ski

Hey Chris,

Awesome job on your Lagun! You did it right and now you have a great machine for your trouble.

See you soon,
TJ

 

[Ski]

Here are some pics of the front shaft sleeve and install hardware to repair the front variable speed shaft. Basically I made a press with a knurled sleeve guide. Plan was to clean up the worn area on the shaft in the lathe. After cleanup cuts ,I Cut a .001 smaller sleeve of oversize OD . I Used a high strength sleeve loctite and very quickly ran the sleeve down usung a threaded rod press. It worked perfectly. I then cut the od of the sleeve to bearing ID and filed in the dog clutch teeth. That loctite sets up like now! I also will put up some pics of the brake which was almost worn out plus the spring was broken. I came up with a way to shim it for more life that worked as well. Now after this stuff was done I ran across someone who was selling off some Lagun parts. In the pile was a lower Lagun cnc housing that had a new front shaft and pulley assembly plus a new clutch. A new shaft assemble from Lagun runs about 1600.00 and brake 170.00 without the shipping. I bought the whole lower housing for 500.00. I figure I can always sell the ones I fixed if someone wants them. I was leary about how the sleeve would hold up so after tossing it around I felt it better to put the new stuff in. Add in that there was some slop on the dog teeth that my fix would not repair. The shaft and brake are both the newest generation Lagun parts. The new shaft dog teeth fit the old matching shaft perfect. Plus I have a few extra cnc parts for epay. The first brake pic is before the repair and the following 2 show the repair . Also, recognize I had some online help from my freind Don throught this sleeve job. Ski

 

[Ski]

Here are a few shots of motor before and after. I put 2 new bearings in the motor. They were dry and noisy. Also one picture of the ram during paint and a few other parts. I made a switch mount that holds the converter and main switch plus built in a collet rack on top of it. Like I mentioned before the only reason for the switch is to remove the 220 from the converter when it is sitting. I could have just unplugged it too. I probably tend to overbuild something if I don't know much about it. Ski

 

[Ski]

Here are a couple shots of the variable speed control. The dial was not in the best shape and I first tried to use a sticker someone printed out but I ended up with a new part here. I should have cut a new plate before I wasted the sticker. One of the cheaper parts tho. The internal shaft and control had a worn out key and I filed a new one out of keystock to replace it and tightened it up. Works good now.

 

[Bogi]

Ski: what a Lagun! congrats! I plan tu buy FTV-1 and rebuild it. The one I saw has noisy head, 0,0013 runout on the SK40 taper, a few spots in the table, and some wear on the Y ways.

Have you got more photos of your rebulid?