Kunming KXM10 4" Universal Cutter Grinder

[pontiac428]

Mike, for your two flute end mills, after you've ground away the broken bits and index the face to the helix, you need to cut big relief cuts in front of each cutting edge. Then cut your 5-deg cutting edge and clean up the clearance cut. It's a funny thing with two flutes, they don't work like 3+ flute EMs in that regard. Keep a good example on hand as you go, it'll help. Welcome to the club, and good start! Your tool budget will find wiggle room now that basic cutting tools can be reused until there's nothing left but a stub.

 

[middle.road]

(dons dust mask before posting...)
Did you ever get to using this puppy regularly?

after doing some surfin' on CL, i found a vintage import Kunming KXM10 4" Universal Cutter Grinder
it is a clone of the famed Deckel SO cutter grinder

this lil' 220v 3 phase, 5,300 RPM, 1/4 hp cutter grinder came complete with tools.
namely an assortment of HSS and Carbide blanks and grinding wheels, spare grinding wheel hub, & the stock set of deckel style collets (1/8-5/8 by 1/8" increments- 8 total)
....clipped...
to power the unit on single phase 240v, i'll be using a surplus Yaskawa VFD .
i'll post video's in the coming weeks!

 

[peter.van.haren]

Anyone have any experience with the cheaper Chinese grinding wheels/cups? For 20-40 bucks (vs tyrol for $$$), the Chinese eBay versions look worth a try. I'm thinking about what I type(s) need and prefer to make mistakes on cheaper purchases.

 

[pontiac428]

I can vouch for the cheap Chinese diamond/CBN wheels (yeah, it's a mystery), but stay far away from imported vitrified stones. Stefan Gotteswinter says he abuses his $10 diamond wheels and chuckles about it in his Deckel clone videos. I decided to try treating mine like that, beating on them like they owe me money with whatever metal at whatever rate. They do hold up well. For stones, though, I would go straight to Norton. You will want to get a cup wheel in white #38A for most work (I like 60 grit, some seem to like super coarse, but I've ground enough at this point to think I know better), and I prefer the "purple" (actually kinda brown) #32AA in 60 grit for roughing. The latter stays amazingly cool while removing lots of tool steel stock such as lathe bits.

 

[peter.van.haren]

Thank you for that. Now that you mention it, a while back when I was looking for a used machine, I did see Stefan's video. It didn't register in my head at that time. I ordered a couple Chinese diamond cups/disks already and will give them a try.... after I get my motor issue sorted.
Right now I'm have a bit of difficulty to find a 220VAC single phase (approx. 2800 rpm so has to be 2 pole) motor as a shoe-in (existing motor base and shaft seem to be an odd size). Don't really want to get an inverter that will transform 220 single to 380 three phase for the existing motor. Besides, the bearings are a bit noisy.
All in all, at least the project is putting grease under my finger nails!
Peter

 

[Diecutter]

If you use a diamond wheel it's good to have one of those soft white cleaning sticks to remove glazing from buildup between the diamond grains. They really make a difference and only run a few bucks.

 

[Janderso]

Nice score Mike!
Like Bob said, You Suck.

 

[peter.van.haren]

If you use a diamond wheel it's good to have one of those soft white cleaning sticks to remove glazing from buildup between the diamond grains. They really make a difference and only run a few bucks.

Thanks, I'll get one.

 

[gerritv]

Thank you for that. Now that you mention it, a while back when I was looking for a used machine, I did see Stefan's video. It didn't register in my head at that time. I ordered a couple Chinese diamond cups/disks already and will give them a try.... after I get my motor issue sorted.
Right now I'm have a bit of difficulty to find a 220VAC single phase (approx. 2800 rpm so has to be 2 pole) motor as a shoe-in (existing motor base and shaft seem to be an odd size). Don't really want to get an inverter that will transform 220 single to 380 three phase for the existing motor. Besides, the bearings are a bit noisy.
All in all, at least the project is putting grease under my finger nails!
Peter

Or use a 1725 RPM motor with a larger pulley. The goal is to get > 4000 RPM for good cutting action.

The import diamond wheels work very well. For the white wheels, take the advice given in Deckel and Alexander manuals, dress a relief in the wheel edge so you are not grinding with the full width, this greatly reduces the heat build up when splitting blanks or otherwise removing lots of material. I bought a Triumph flaring cup wheel and loving it for most of my grinding.

 

[peter.van.haren]

Or use a 1725 RPM motor with a larger pulley. The goal is to get > 4000 RPM for good cutting action.

The import diamond wheels work very well. For the white wheels, take the advice given in Deckel and Alexander manuals, dress a relief in the wheel edge so you are not grinding with the full width, this greatly reduces the heat build up when splitting blanks or otherwise removing lots of material. I bought a Triumph flaring cup wheel and loving it for most of my grinding.

well, I got another VFD (my existing Delta developed a short) and hooked it up. It seems to work alright, however it seems that torque might be reduced. Unfortunately I couldn't try the grinder before, so don't know if it's because of the VFD or not.
Also got some new bearings for the motor. Lucky they are common 6200 (30x10x9) bearings, but haven't installed them yet.
Another thing I'm not sure of is the rpm's so will use an optical rotation meter (or what ever it's called) and see what kind of rpm's I'm getting. At least with the VFD I can adjust for that "rpm for good cutting actions".
Thanks a bunch!
PS wondering what options I might have for a drill bit grinding accessory I might try. The accessories I've found on ebay are EXPENSIVE. Lot's to learn!