Keyless drill chuck function....

darkzero said:
Valid point & I can relate but keyless chucks come in different configurations. Integral arbor keyless chucks often don't come with the collar grip. I'm assuming that's what you have.
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Yes, mine is integral arbor. I need a spindle wrench for both tightening and loosening. And if you have a larger diameter drill bit installed, you need more than two hands(!) to safely loosen and remove the bit. One for the spindle wrench, one to grasp the chuck body, and at least remember to have a finger against the bit to prevent it from dropping. Yes, that surprised me ONCE.

With a key, one hand is on the chuck key, the other on the drill bit.

Don't get me wrong, the keyless chuck is a beautiful piece, and I'm sure your Albrecht is even nicer, but a integral arbor keyless chuck really benefits from a spindle lock - otherwise it is a fiddly affair.
 
macardoso said:
All of my chucks have come greased with stiff grease. Over time they will loosen up, or you can open them up and clean.

A leather belt on the knurling used as a strap wrench works well.
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Wished I knew about using a leather belt as a strap wrench before, that is a good tip.

My chuck was stuck open all the way when I received it. It was incredibly difficult to get it to move initially. I've suppressed the memory, probably did something shameful to get it to move the first time. :eek: But, as you say, it has loosened up. At this point it is fine, but it takes 2 hands plus a finger or two to remove a drill without dropping the bit.
 
WobblyHand said:
Wished I knew about using a leather belt as a strap wrench before, that is a good tip.

My chuck was stuck open all the way when I received it. It was incredibly difficult to get it to move initially. I've suppressed the memory, probably did something shameful to get it to move the first time. :eek: But, as you say, it has loosened up. At this point it is fine, but it takes 2 hands plus a finger or two to remove a drill without dropping the bit.
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I think I know where you went with that (*screaming intensifies*). The belt as a strap wrench is super handy
 
If I were you guys, I would take the chuck apart, clean it well and use SuperLube synthetic grease to lube it. That stuff is stable down to -45 degrees and should not stiffen up in climates most of us can live in.

I would also reserve judgement on keyless chucks until you get yours working the way it should. It should take seconds to change drills, with very little hand torque to loosen or tighten the chuck and it should lock solidly. If your PM chuck does not work this way, rather than go with a keyed chuck I would sell it and buy an Albrecht or Rohm Spiro chuck. Yes, I know they're expensive but if you watch ebay you can find one. My last 1/2" Albrecht and Spiro chucks were both brand new and both cost less than even the cheapest of the PM chucks. Of course, my eBay-Fu is mighty but if you are patient and diligent, you will find it.

Like Will, I do not own integral shanked chucks. You need the fixed collar on the chuck if you don't have a spindle lock so better to go with a JT chuck that comes with the collar.

Personally, I own a 14N Jacobs Super Chuck with the stupid key and it hasn't seen the light of day for years. It is a fine chuck but it is too slow and cumbersome to use. Go with what you think is best, of course, but compared to an Albrecht Classic or a Rohm Spiro, a Jacobs keyed chuck would not be my personal choice.
 
I may do that, if it annoys me enough. Mine works ok, at this point, however. How are these chucks typically disassembled? I've never disassembled a chuck before. Mine's with integral arbor. PM doesn't seem to have a part's diagram or expanded diagram of it, at least that I can find. Mine's the ultra-precision keyless chuck SKU: KDCRS-13R8T There's not much to hold on to! A knurled section and the R8 section.
 
I have not disassembled one of these chucks so hopefully someone who has will come along. I've done Albrecht only.

If I had to hold that thing to try to get the hood off, I would lock the shank in an ER collet block and carefully turn the hood off (RH thread) with a strap wrench and then go from there.
 
mikey said:
You need the fixed collar on the chuck if you don't have a spindle lock so better to go with a JT chuck that comes with the collar.
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That's where I made my mistake by buying a keyless chuck without a fixed collar to grab to keep the spindle from turning while I tighten. I did a small job on my mill today and it was painful using my keyless chuck. I'm definitely going to have to do something different.
 
I'd say it wasn't convenient, but it's not actually painful.

I contacted PM today and they said their ultra-precision keyless chuck is not a serviceable item and said these chucks are not meant to be taken apart. They did say if it was really stiff, or really tightened up one could soak it in WD40 and work it to free it up.

I may try to get mine apart tomorrow. If I can't grip it well enough, I will let it be. Mine's not actually broken so there's no actual need to mess with it. Just curiosity, at this point.
 
I have two keyless chucks, both on MT3 tapers for the lathe. A Chum Power JT6 0.3 to 13mm made in Taiwan. A beautiful chuck have never had a drill spin while in use and I hand tighten only although it does have two holes for toggle bars I've never had to use them, this chuck came with my lathe.

The other has no markings other than B18. 1 - 16mm Again a beautiful chuck never had drill spin while in use. I have just looked and found a number of look alikes on eBay from A$30 to $40. I don't remember where I got mine but quite possibly one of these sellers. Both of these keyless chucks are comfortably firm in use, quite smooth and very easy to use. I think the B18 refers to the arbor size.

I also have an old Jacobs 1/2" keyed chuck also on MT3 but with the other two I just never use it, they just don't grip as good. And I'm always losing the key.
 
I'm still running things through my head on this. On a lathe I can see how the keyless chuck would work great. The drill bit is horizontal and there's less chance of it falling when you loosen the chuck to change it out. But on a mill you basically have to use both hands to tighten and loosen the drill bit and need a 3rd hand to hold the bit. Even having the knurled shoulder you're still using both hands to tighten and loosen. I suppose you could put a finger on the bit but I found out by using my keyless chuck that it's easy to get the bit started crooked. Also when you go from a large bit to a smaller one you have to use both hands to reduce the chuck down to grab the smaller bit. In between you have to grab the smaller bit, check to see if you have the chuck reduced down small enough, put the bit back down because you need to reduce the chuck more, etc. It would be nice if the keyless chuck was free enough to spin without the machine spindle turning in which case you could hold the bit in one hand and adjust the chuck with the other and hold the bit tight enough in the chuck to let go and then use both hands to tighten.

With a keyed chuck you get to hold the bit in one hand and tighten and loosen the chuck with the other. Plus there's almost no chance of dropping the bit when you loosen or tighten the chuck because you have a full hand on it not just a finger in some contortionist position. Plus when you are switching drill sizes you can hold the bit right near the chuck as you adjust for that size bit. So far I'm missing the appeal of a keyless drill chuck.
 
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