Kalamazoo 9a-w Saw Restore

Well i had some time tis afternoon so i decided to clean up the saw a bit. I removed the coolant tank and then cleaned then covers and the base with some degreaser and some warm water and soap. That alone makes the saw look much better. I in the process found that one spring is missing from the counter balance system. here are a couple pics of the cleaning

Saw half cleaned.jpg


Saw _cleaned.jpg
 
Well ran into a bigger problem when i pulled the gear box for inspection. The box is fine, the output shaft and the 14" pulley have a lot of slop between them. after cleaning everything up, the shaft is worn and the pulley id is worn and out round, and cracked. I can make a new shaft for the gear box, no problem. the 14" pulley is another issue.
 
Is the full 14" required? 12" pulleys are readily available and not too expensive...
 
Dabbler,
yes the way this machine is made they need to be pretty close to 14". Thinking about trying to fabricate one up from bar stock and a good center hub.
 
So the outside rim is still intact, then?
 
is the 14 inch wheel cast iron? If so, you should be able to braze repair and then machine the bore back to size - Mig or Tig repair the worn shaft and you should have a great saw == Jack
 
My research on brazing cast iron is telling me that it is difficult to do with good success. I found a used pulley for a decentprice on E-bay (confirmed with seller that the bore is good, and that is in good usable condition) before ordering. Will probably try and use it in place of the one i have.
So i am at either welding up the current shaft and using it or turning a new one and keying it.
Need set of bearings and seals for the gearbox and we should be up and running.

Probably be a week or so for all the parts to arrive and me to get to the repairs.
 
Any kind of repair to cast iron is fussy. Brazing works well, done correctly. So does welding, again, done correctly. Both will fail if not done correctly. The basics are: Vee out the crack all the way into the material, leaving just enough original metal to locate the parts together. Made sure that the metal is clean and without contaminants like oil and paint. Preheat the cast iron thoroughly before welding or brazing. Use plenty of the correct flux when brazing. Carefully follow the manufacturer's instructions when welding. As soon as the welding or brazing is completed the work must immediately be wrapped in welding thermal blankets or buried deep in dry sand to cool very slowly. Do it correctly and it will work just fine. If you try to cut corners or use equipment and consumables meant for other welding techniques, you will almost certainly fail immediately, or end up with work that will fail in service. A good brazed or welded repair is just as strong as the original iron.

Disclaimer: I am not really a welder. But I have been around it enough to have seen lots of good and poor work, and the difference is in having a welder wno knows what he/she is doing and takes pride in doing good work.
 
Well some good news, my replacement wheel cam in and seems to be in good shape. The shaft has been welded up and turned to fit the wheel, with anew key way cut.
Had to order two new bearings for the wheel shaft, so it will be next week before i get to put the gear box back together and on the machine. Found someone to weld me up a new blade and that should be done by the time the bearings are in.
 
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