Just got my J head - things to do? and parts?

#18, got it / get it. I think I can get to that while I have the side to side [is this called the X ?] leadscrew and handles off. Does the oil get to that through some long passage from one of the Zerks?

Good VFD... Reliable, properly designed for the job, does it well. Reasonably efficient, doesn't make tons of RFI. Electronics designed to handle the kinds of overloads it may see without burning out..

H&W lists 2, an add on one for $600 , a really fancy one that includes a new motor for $2100! That's too much for my expected use. I'm not a fan of low cost made in china stuff. I've had enough experiences to be wary. For now, I'll not worry about it. I want to get hte machine set up and running and go from there.
 
Sadly, no. You have to drip oil to it from a hole in the table. There's a set screw in the hole, and it can be a bit tricky to find.

I'm not sure about getting the carrier out without removing the table, but it might be possible.

For VFD, KB electronics is highly regarded by the belt grinder guys. About $300. No rush to decide now if you are going to be cleaning up. I wouldn't drop $600 on one though.
 
I'm using a Teco/Westinghouse FM50 on both my 2HP 2J head Bridgeport and SB lathe. Got them from Factorymation. Inexpensive, free shipping and no sales tax. They have been working very well for me.

Ted
 
I thought something was odd about the motor and electrical stuff... Found some pictures online, the motor is mounted rotated 180 degrees from normal, and the reverse / on off switch is mounted down on the side of the upright part of the base, WAY out of the way for convenient operation.
 
Got way oil and oiler today. Decided to unscrew one of the Zerks to see what kind of crud may be in there.... Looks like someone used light grease.
 
When I got mine it was full of grease.... needed to take everything apart and clean with brake cleaner, pipe cleaners, compressed air, etc... whatever it takes. All that stuff needs to be cleaned out. There are some oil channels that Y off so just trying to push oil through without disassembly and cleaning might not get all the channels clean.

Ted
 
Got the grease cleaned out of the table ways. Put some way oil on them. Ok, the grease hides play. The scrapeing marks are mostly still there. So I have to adjust the gibs. Table slides a lot easier now, I can move it by hand, instead of prybar / or leaning against it almost like I was pushing a car.
 
If your table is like mine you'll have a set screw in the center of the table in the middle T slot. There are lines stamped on the side of the table/saddle that you line up and then remove the set screw and squirt in some oil for the X and Y nuts. I actually ran a copper tube in under the table and mounted an additional zert so I could oil the nuts that way. Makes it a lot easier.

There are oil channels for the knee and saddle in addition to the ones for the table. I disassembled and clean all of mine out thoroughly. Now I know everything is getting way oil like it should.

Ted
 
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