Just bought this today

I'll tell you what I did. I struck my first arc when I was twelve trying to fix a road blade I broke using it as a wheelie bar on the tractor before my Dad came home. The weld held the two parts together long enough to put it back in its place. But when Dad went to use it, yelp it broke. I got my ass whipped for not breaking the equipment but for hiding the fact. Then Dad said let me show you how to do it better next time. That was 1976.

From that time on I have welded any and everything I needed to. Eighty percent of my welds looked crappy but most worked. Around 1994 I bought a brand new Snap-on mig welder and after some time became decent with it. Up until this point, I had no formal training what so ever.


Around 2006 I started producing a product around my hobby, almost over night orders exploded for this product. To reproduce some of the parts that were originally stamped, I had to make them in multiple pieces and weld them together. Mig welding was not working too well so I paid a Welder to tig them for me. After a couple years of this, someone mentioned I should check on the Adult night class at the local Vo-tech.

So I checked on the classes, three hours a night, two nights a week for six weeks, $175.00. I signed up. long story short, I was tig welding the last week of the class! I asked my instructor if I signed up again, could I bring my own material in to practice on which he said yes. I was paying my Welder $250.00 per batch. I paid the $175.00 fee and welded my own parts at school. I took the class another time when I needed another batch of parts and have since bought my own tig machine.

What a difference those classes made! it initially did not make me a better welder but it taught me to identify what I was doing wrong and how to correct it, which has made me a better welder.
 
Thanks for the info everyone. I will check it all out. I did find some 4130 .1 wall scrap tubing today at work. Not sure how 4130 will weld, but it was free. I'm going to our local steel yard and see what I can get there on Friday.

I've looked at classes at my local college but they get out too late at night. I'm up at 4:30 for work every morning and I'm in bed pretty early now days. I really wish I could find a way to take some classes. I see nothing offered on the weekends. I love working fours 10's and three days off, but my day stops at 8:30 at night now.
 
Well I tried to lay some beads today and was doing so so and I changed the tungsten and it didn't go well after that. The flame looks like it came out of a propane torch. I changed from one that was in the torch to the new ones I bought.

You can see how I sharpened the one on the right and the one he gave me. The one he gave me has no marking on it, so I don't kno what type it is.

So what did I do wrong?

20141025_161536.jpg

20141025_161536.jpg
 
What settings were you using? AC? DC? Electrode positive or negative? Number of amps? Pulse/no pulse? Foot pedal or torch trigger? Pure Argon? It's just a matter of getting everything set right.

GG
 
One of the things you want to do is grind the tip by laying it kind of vertical on the wheel, so the tip is above center, like you would grind a screwdriver, so the striations are parallel to the long axis of the electrode. Then grind it to a fine point. And was the gas running?
 
Amps from 80 to 120 DC, material 4130 .100 wall tubing, pulse off, electrode negative, trigger, no foot pedal, pure argon, pre flow at 10, post flow at 15. I sanded the tubing off to remove any coatings.

I saw on youtube how to grind the electrode. I'm pointing it down and the grind marks are parallel to the electrode, the taper is 3 times the diameter of the electrode.

It just seemed like everything changed when I switched to the new electrode.
 
Try going back the the original electrode and see what happens. :dunno: That is a bit strange, it sounds like your setup is about right.
 
Your electrode tip looks great. DC electrode negative (DCEN) is the correct setting for steel. 120 amps sounds a little hot for .100 wall tubing with a trigger switch. I would try 90-100. With a foot pedal, you can change the amperage on the fly. As the tubing gets hotter, you may need to lower the amperage to keep from running too hot. You should use a 1/16" ER70S-2 rod. 3/32" will work, but it's a little big and will be slightly harder to use. Your Argon flow should be set to about 20 Cfh. Start with a #7 ceramic cup. Keep your arc short. Hope this helps. Keep us updated on your progress!

GG
 
I will switch back tomorrow. I don't know what cup size I have, there are no markings on it.

I'm thinking about buying a consumable kit with different cups and collets.
 
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