Jim's truly simple ball turning tool

[Janderso]

That's why I'm wondering why the puck is set off to the side of the cross slide. Is it due to restricted swing on your lathe?
I have a 16" swing. The puck would fit dead center on my cross slide, and I'd still be able to turn balls several inches in diameter.

I put the rod in a similar position as Rex has shown in his print. No other reason.

 

[Rex Walters]

That's why I'm wondering why the puck is set off to the side of the cross slide. Is it due to restricted swing on your lathe?
I have a 16" swing. The puck would fit dead center on my cross slide, and I'd still be able to turn balls several inches in diameter.

Its because I can’t move my carriage hand wheel far enough left when using collets in the spindle. Without the ledge, I would need another couple inches of stick out from the spindle, losing rigidity.

I think many hobby (and even pro) lathes are the same.

(Sorry — spent a couple days with friends in Yosemite without connectivity.)

 

[Janderso]

I noticed as I was playing around with my version of the ball cutter the puck was getting loose. I used low carbon steel.
I decided to beef it up a bit.
The pin is now hardened 4140 and the spacer is ghetto heat treated A2. I also added a 5/16 hardened pin to hold the pivot pin in place.
The fit came out perfect. It now feels like there are thrust bearings in the fixture.
I’m also going to grind a flat in the carbide cutting tool. The set screw does not bite well into the carbide for obvious reasons. This thing is slick.

 

[Rex Walters]

Did you even look at the drawings, Jeff? <laugh>

I only had any wobbliness before I put the screw and washer in the bottom. I think yours was wobbly because the boss is too short — it should go all the way through to the bottom of the base. Hardening is not required (aluminum pucks work fine). See the Completing the Boss section in my blog article for details on how to size the boss correctly.

 

[Janderso]

Did you even look at the drawings, Jeff? <laugh>

I only had any wobbliness before I put the screw and washer in the bottom. I think yours was wobbly because the boss is too short — it should go all the way through to the bottom of the base. Hardening is not required (aluminum pucks work fine). See the Completing the Boss section in my blog article for details on how to size the boss correctly.

I'm not one to read directions.
I'm a trailblazer, usually in circles
I have never bored A2. I found out I had a nice taper in the bushing which was supposed to fix the screw up. Just made it worse. my boring bar for this size must not be rigid enough for the tougher material.
So, I made a new puck with a piece of 1/2” drill rod that goes through the base.
Drilled and reamed a corresponding hole in the base.
Now all is right with the world.

 

[Janderso]

Did you even look at the drawings, Jeff? <laugh>

I only had any wobbliness before I put the screw and washer in the bottom. I think yours was wobbly because the boss is too short — it should go all the way through to the bottom of the base. Hardening is not required (aluminum pucks work fine). See the Completing the Boss section in my blog article for details on how to size the boss correctly.

I should explain. I have one page of the drawings. The picture of the assembled unit only.
I didn’t realize there were three pages??

 

[Rex Walters]

Sweet!

I recognize that corroded aluminum hex stock. I’ve got some squirreled away, too.

Try some steel! It’s just as easy to turn. Very satisfying.

I will be posting my article on making tapered handles soon. Finally got the process down. I had a brain fart and was trying to set over the tailstock instead of using the compound to turn the taper.

 

[Rex Walters]

I didn’t realize there were three pages??

Lol!

There are four pages!

 

[wachuko]

Lol!

There are four pages!

A pdf, a Fusion 360 model, and, and... wow! Thank you!

 

[Fasturn]

Since I don't have want a ball turner, I use the mill and rotary table. Most home projects don't require close tolerances, so a X Z Kellering and file is easy. DRO's have sub routines. Still like seeing what others come up with, thanks.