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manual states to use mobile dte heavy medium oil for basically everything, what quantity i need to order in to fill everything up is not. anyone know how many gallons i need?
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Jet 1440w-3 oil capacity?
- Thread starter oogenshire
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yes
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Fill it to mid way of the sight glass, run the machine for a few minutes, let it rest a few, add more oil to bring it back to the center, if necessary.
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i need to know how much oil i need to order as i cant find it locally....
- Joined
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Got it, well it usually comes in 5gal pails which should be plenty enough for a couple of oil changes. A gallon might be enough but I don't know for sure. DTE medium heavy, is basically ISO 68 hydraulic oil, according to my cross reference.
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A bit surprising the the oil volumes are not listed for your lathe. I would figure around 1.5-2 gallons if you include the heastock, gearbox and carriage. I have a similar size lathe and that is about what it takes, although I use ISO32 in the headstock and Vacuoline 1409 (ISO68) for the gearbox and carriage. My lathe ways are lubricated through a carriage pump which was the reason to use the Vacuoline 1409 which is both a gear and way oil. In the headstock I have been using the Miles hydraulic oils from Zoro, with their typical 20% off coupons and free shipping it is a lot less expensive then the Mobil products. Unlikely to see an oil product breakdown in a lathe as a hobbyist, but it should still be changed on a regular bases (annual or every other year) as moisture will accumulate over time.
www.zoro.com
Miles Lubricants 5 gal Pail, Hydraulic Oil, 68 ISO Viscosity, 20W SAE M001000703 | Zoro
Order Miles Lubricants 5 gal Pail, Hydraulic Oil, 68 ISO Viscosity, 20W SAE, M001000703 at Zoro.com. Great prices & free shipping on orders over $50 when you sign in or sign up for an account.
www.zoro.com
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I just ordered the 5 gallon pail of that in ISO 46 with a 20% off coupon today and it was $83 with tax.A bit surprising the the oil volumes are not listed for your lathe. I would figure around 1.5-2 gallons if you include the heastock, gearbox and carriage. I have a similar size lathe and that is about what it takes, although I use ISO32 in the headstock and Vacuoline 1409 (ISO68) for the gearbox and carriage. My lathe ways are lubricated through a carriage pump which was the reason to use the Vacuoline 1409 which is both a gear and way oil. In the headstock I have been using the Miles hydraulic oils from Zoro, with their typical 20% off coupons and free shipping it is a lot less expensive then the Mobil products. Unlikely to see an oil product breakdown in a lathe as a hobbyist, but it should still be changed on a regular bases (annual or every other year) as moisture will accumulate over time.
Miles Lubricants 5 gal Pail, Hydraulic Oil, 68 ISO Viscosity, 20W SAE M001000703 | Zoro
Order Miles Lubricants 5 gal Pail, Hydraulic Oil, 68 ISO Viscosity, 20W SAE, M001000703 at Zoro.com. Great prices & free shipping on orders over $50 when you sign in or sign up for an account.
Timely. My 1440 lathe vendor (Not a Jet) recommended the DTE Heavy/Medium (ISO 68) for my headstock, and gearbox/carraige. It's a cnc converted lathe and frankly the gearbox is likely to never be used with cnc threading available.
Yep, it's a lot more money than plain Hydraulic fluid, but you can use the same Zoro coupons on the Mobil products and they ship free... which is what I did. The 5 gal pail will probably last me 6 years+. The DTE separates itself from water extremely well and I know me, I'll probably go well more than 1 year between changes.
There's no oil volume listed in my manual either. I just finished the headstock oil change and it used under 1 gallon. I think the remaining part of the gallon will do all the rest of it, or at least most. If it's more than a gallon, it won't be by much.
Two things I learned:
1) The lathe is much quieter and smoother after replacing the factory oil.
2) There was a LOT of casting iron flakes and magnetic sludge in the headstock. Before actually replacing the oil, I spent a couple of hours fishing around in the headstock with a magnet in the original oil, then drained it down to the plug height, then fished around in what was left in the bottom again with the magnet, then soaked up all the remaining original oil in the bottom and stuffed towels in there to wipe around and clean things up more. THEN sprayed the whole box top down with mineral spirits to wash any remaining crud to the bottom, THEN wiped all that up from the bottom again and made sure the whole thing was clean... THEN filled it with new oil.
There really was that much crud in there. It's nice and clean now. But honestly knowing what I know now I wish I had done that full cleanup, put fresh oil in immediately, done 10-20 hours of break in THEN changed it again. That would have been better. Never assume a foreign machine tool or engine is clean of casting and machining debris when you get it. Assume it's full of crud and you'll never be disappointed.
A recent Briggs and Stratton engine we got was full of iron filings in the gas tank from the factory. And my HF band saw had a ton of iron filings in the oil in the gearbox too. If it's foreign and it's a engine or gearbox, assume it's full of casting filings.
Yep, it's a lot more money than plain Hydraulic fluid, but you can use the same Zoro coupons on the Mobil products and they ship free... which is what I did. The 5 gal pail will probably last me 6 years+. The DTE separates itself from water extremely well and I know me, I'll probably go well more than 1 year between changes.
There's no oil volume listed in my manual either. I just finished the headstock oil change and it used under 1 gallon. I think the remaining part of the gallon will do all the rest of it, or at least most. If it's more than a gallon, it won't be by much.
Two things I learned:
1) The lathe is much quieter and smoother after replacing the factory oil.
2) There was a LOT of casting iron flakes and magnetic sludge in the headstock. Before actually replacing the oil, I spent a couple of hours fishing around in the headstock with a magnet in the original oil, then drained it down to the plug height, then fished around in what was left in the bottom again with the magnet, then soaked up all the remaining original oil in the bottom and stuffed towels in there to wipe around and clean things up more. THEN sprayed the whole box top down with mineral spirits to wash any remaining crud to the bottom, THEN wiped all that up from the bottom again and made sure the whole thing was clean... THEN filled it with new oil.
There really was that much crud in there. It's nice and clean now. But honestly knowing what I know now I wish I had done that full cleanup, put fresh oil in immediately, done 10-20 hours of break in THEN changed it again. That would have been better. Never assume a foreign machine tool or engine is clean of casting and machining debris when you get it. Assume it's full of crud and you'll never be disappointed.
A recent Briggs and Stratton engine we got was full of iron filings in the gas tank from the factory. And my HF band saw had a ton of iron filings in the oil in the gearbox too. If it's foreign and it's a engine or gearbox, assume it's full of casting filings.
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The Jet 1440W specifies hydraulic ISO32 headstock oil, 5.7L (1.5 gallons), gearbox is ISO68 2.0L (0.53 gallons), apron 1.1L (1 quart). I have the Sunmaster ERL-1340 specifies an ISO32 oil in the heastock 7.4L and their 1440 versions are 8L or around 2 gallons of ISO32. The higher speed headstocks tend to use ISO32, but not much difference between that and an ISO68 unless one is at the temperature extremes under operation. I do not see that the Mobil oils in this application are worth 2X the cost of other oils that have the same operating specifications. How much crude comes out in your oil changes is probably a function of the cost point of the machine and that influences the manufacturing location/process/QC. When I did my first headstock oil change on my ERL-1340 (Taiwanese) lathe there was no evidence of metal particulates, my previous Chinese gear head mill filled with metal filings and the oil was almost black. Hugh difference in operating temperature and noise when I replaced the crappy oil it was filled with.
