Jet 1236P cleanup?

Mine is in pieces right now, Waiting on weather so I can do some painting on the head before I put it back together.
One other thing, If you do not use a Link Belt for the spindle you have to take it all apart to replace the belt. Which is what the books say, Most have converted to link belts like on yours,
If I get the chance I will take pics of mine in pieces. Ken
 
kvt said:
Mine is in pieces right now, Waiting on weather so I can do some painting on the head before I put it back together.
One other thing, If you do not use a Link Belt for the spindle you have to take it all apart to replace the belt. Which is what the books say, Most have converted to link belts like on yours,
If I get the chance I will take pics of mine in pieces. Ken
Click to expand...
Sounds great! I would really like to see pics of yours. I'm sure it will help.
Thanks Ken!
 
Went through my pics and sorry to say but I cant find any of the head assembly .
Hope Ken can provide them.
I can point out several things to make taking the head apart and for re-assembly if you find you have to do so.
There is one simple tool you will need to turn.
Hope your able to find the back gears. This came up some time ago and the person was able to get the proper gears but
had to bore the bronze bushings to size.
 
kvt said:
Here is the page for parts that should fit. Like has been said many were just variations. So like mine used 32211 bearing in place of the 30211 on one end and then use the 30210 on the other.
The seals were all the same, and I found those in several places. I had an inside seal out on the rear bearing and was leaking the oil out over night. but while I was at it, I took the whole thing apart, and started doing a good cleaning of everything. One other thing, I see you have missing back gear on it, the shaft and other stuff is there but the gear is missing. that would be one way to hold the spindle while tightening the chuck. That chuck reminds me of the one on my sherline lathe, but it also has holes in the main cuck body so you can hold it while turning the scroll plate which is the back knurled piece. Another way to hold it while tightening it would be a web wrench.
Click to expand...
The strap wrench was a good suggestion; got it loose pretty easily. Adding some holes in the chuck body seems like a good idea - I think I will do that. Gonna start taking it all apart this weekend and cleaning/lubing as recommended.
Thanks!
 
I have not made it into the shop lately. Shoulder and neck giving me a bit of a problem again. Go to pain Management next week for another epidural (sp) injection. I will have to find a place where I can lay it all out so you can see it. Mine is a bit different, but the workings are about he same. Ken
 
I bought the 11-36 version of that lathe about 3 years ago and really like it.

I cleaned mine with fluid from my parts washer. Kerosene would work about the same, but the smell gives me a headache. Put some in a $1 metal loaf pan from Dollar tree and get a get a parts brush and go to town. I spent about a day cleaning mine up.

as for your oils question:
My manual called for ISO 68 oil in the spindle bearings and apron. I bought a 2 gallon bottle of Mystil ISO-68 oil from tractor supply that will probably last me decades. http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/mystik-pl-aw-hydraulic-oil-iso-68-2-gal

For way oil I decided to use SUNOCO HD WAYLUBE 1180 since it is still formulated for the older v-way machines and is a really good Way Lube. It is $35 for a five gallon bucket (which will last a hobby machinist a really long time) http://petroleumservicecompany.com/sunoco-hd-waylube-1180/ Mobil changed the Viactra formula to make it better for newer flat way machines. They took the tackafiers out that makes it less desirable for our older v way machines.

For the change gears I use a spray lubricant for gears and chains. (I need to go out into the shop to read the can, but
LOCTITE LB 8421 Gear, Chain & Cable Lubricant seems like the same stuff)


for cutting oil I use the quart bottle of Oatleys dark sulphur cutting oil for steel (about $5 in the plumbing section of lowes and home depot)
For cutting aluminum I bought a gallon of WD-40 it works great and smells nice.

Get some of these spill proof cups to keep the cutting oils in for $7.99 for a pack of 4 cups https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FAB7I4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They made these lathes with an oddball 60mm X 8 TPI spindle thread which are impossible to find, so you may have to make your own backing plate if you change the chuck. You may want to measure your spindle threads to confirm this.

Mine could be run on either 110 or 220 with a simple wiring change. I made a PDF clearly showing the with wiring fir both when I converted mine from 100V to 220V, Ill dig it up if you need it.

Have fun with your new lathe, Chris



 
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kvt said:
Mine is in pieces right now, Waiting on weather so I can do some painting on the head before I put it back together.
One other thing, If you do not use a Link Belt for the spindle you have to take it all apart to replace the belt. Which is what the books say, Most have converted to link belts like on yours,
If I get the chance I will take pics of mine in pieces. Ken
Click to expand...

Ken,

If you could take a bunch of pictures of yours in pieces that would be appreciated. A series of youtube videos of the cleaning, painting,, and rebuild process would also be great. There really isn't a bunch of readily available info on these lathes, so anything you can provide documenting your rebuild would be greatly appreciated, by a lot of people.

Thanks,

Chris
 
Shadowdog500 said:
I bought the 11-36 version of that lathe about 3 years ago and really like it.

I cleaned mine with fluid from my parts washer. Kerosene would work about the same, but the smell gives me a headache. Put some in a $1 metal loaf pan from Dollar tree and get a get a parts brush and go to town. I spent about a day cleaning mine up.

as for your oils question:
My manual called for ISO 68 oil in the spindle bearings and apron. I bought a 2 gallon bottle of Mystil ISO-68 oil from tractor supply that will probably last me decades. http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/mystik-pl-aw-hydraulic-oil-iso-68-2-gal

For way oil I decided to use SUNOCO HD WAYLUBE 1180 since it is still formulated for the older v-way machines and is a really good Way Lube. It is $35 for a five gallon bucket (which will last a hobby machinist a really long time) http://petroleumservicecompany.com/sunoco-hd-waylube-1180/ Mobil changed the Viactra formula to make it better for newer flat way machines. They took the tackafiers out that makes it less desirable for our older v way machines.

For the change gears I use a spray lubricant for gears and chains. (I need to go out into the shop to read the can, but
LOCTITE LB 8421 Gear, Chain & Cable Lubricant seems like the same stuff)


for cutting oil I use the quart bottle of Oatleys dark sulphur cutting oil for steel (about $5 in the plumbing section of lowes and home depot)
For cutting aluminum I bought a gallon of WD-40 it works great and smells nice.

Get some of these spill proof cups to keep the cutting oils in for $7.99 for a pack of 4 cups https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FAB7I4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They made these lathes with an oddball 60mm X 8 TPI spindle thread which are impossible to find, so you may have to make your own backing plate if you change the chuck. You may want to measure your spindle threads to confirm this.

Mine could be run on either 110 or 220 with a simple wiring change. I made a PDF clearly showing the with wiring fir both when I converted mine from 100V to 220V, Ill dig it up if you need it.

Have fun with your new lathe, Chris
Click to expand...
Man! Thanks Chris! Great information and suggestions - I really appreciate hearing that you are happy with your lathe. Is it the same vintage 1982 as I have? I'm seriously considering doing the variable speed DC motor conversion as Pierre did. My guesstimate is the cost for back gears and stepped pulleys is about the same as converting it to the DC drive. I post more pics during and after cleanup.
 
Mine had already been converted to a vfd so I have the variable speed but still use the back gear on it. Mine used smaller spindle but still 8tpi, I did wind up making some face plates, for me and a friend. Also made a Spider for doing barrels that he uses in place of the chuck. I made it out to the shop for a few and did some cleaning. Now I have to make it back out to do a little more. Did finally get a camera out there so I can take some pics. Don't really have any way to make videos for you tube, Right now the whole thing is mainily in plastic bags. Maybe I will re arrange some so that I can get them all laid out and take some pictures before I start Re assembly
 
SteelTwister said:
Man! Thanks Chris! Great information and suggestions - I really appreciate hearing that you are happy with your lathe. Is it the same vintage 1982 as I have? I'm seriously considering doing the variable speed DC motor conversion as Pierre did. My guesstimate is the cost for back gears and stepped pulleys is about the same as converting it to the DC drive. I post more pics during and after cleanup.
Click to expand...


Mine is 1983 so I bet yours also has the 60mm X 8TPI spindle.
I can't wait to see your conversion.

Chris
 
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