Is Super Lube ok for change gears?

tmenyc

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i just installed a LMS 7500 8.5x20 in my shop (more about it soon as I get it running). Now that I've got the gears cleaned off, I need to get a bit of grease on them. Little Machine Shop recommends Lubriplate 6530-AA Lithium grease, and I already have Super Lube 20130, synthetic. Do I really need a lithium grease, or is SL appropriate for this use?
Turns out I also have an old tube of Panef "white grease". The graphics look like 1960s or 70s, and it has a zip code so is no earlier than mid '60s. It does not say what it is; didn't have to then. I have no idea where it came from. ls this useful for the change gears?

Many thanks,
Tim
 
The antique white grease could be full of lead, which will get everywhere. I'd avoid that. The Lubriplate is a little bit lighter than the Super Lube, but if you plan to do routine maintenance (clean and re-grease) it won't make a difference to the gears or operation. Super Lube is a good product and I'd use it if it's what I had on hand. The teflon will coat the gear teeth and it's durable enough. External gear trains on a lathe aren't that picky. Light lithium grease collects a little less debris, and that is the reason it's selected. Light moly disulfide is similar. It has little to do with extreme pressure requirements or operating temperature.
 
As the saying goes, to each their own and if grease is your choice, so be it.

Personally, I use ISO 220 slide oil on my metal change gears and if that is not to hand, a little brown lithium grease, it works for me. The tackifier in the slide oil helps it stick to the gear teeth a little better than grease to be fair.

I also use silicone grease on plastic gears. Again, works for me.
 
Thanks to you both! I'll use the Super Lube that I already have.
best for the weekend,
Tim
 
I use Super Lube Grease for most machine points that require grease and Super Lube Oil for those those that need oil (other than way oil on ways).
 
I do not like any type of grease on change gears, it tends to attract chips, which will cause wear to the gears by recirculating and abrading the gear tooth flanks, and also it makes for a big mess, especially if the gears need to be manually changed. Best to use oil.
 
I do not like any type of grease on change gears, it tends to attract chips, which will cause wear to the gears by recirculating and abrading the gear tooth flanks, and also it makes for a big mess, especially if the gears need to be manually changed. Best to use oil.
Oil will be cast off (even way oil); your change gears should be well shielded from errant chips by the cover.
 
Oil will be cast off (even way oil); your change gears should be well shielded from errant chips by the cover.

That depends on speed of the gears and at this point, I have not had any "cast-off" due to the fact that I use "just enough" to keep the gears lubed, but not enough for it to fling. Heck, even at full tilt, I have had zero "fling" from my Change-gears. Then again, as I said, this is a 7x, but even so

Also, if you think/know oil will cast off, you need to remember that grease is worse than oil and messier to clean up.

I also need to mention I have made up a lower "tray" for my 7x that mounts to the cover over the change-gears. It helps with keeping out swarf when combined with the spindle extension I have fitted ;)
 
I use Super Lube Grease for most machine points that require grease and Super Lube Oil for those those that need oil (other than way oil on ways).
Any thought to using motorcycle chail oil? I've got some in a spray can, accidentally used it on something, saw how 'sticky' it was, and had the thought if it would be ok for the change gears
 
Any thought to using motorcycle chail oil? I've got some in a spray can, accidentally used it on something, saw how 'sticky' it was, and had the thought if it would be ok for the change gears

CHAIL oil? did you mean chain oil per chance?

Chain oil may be worth a try, even if only as an experiment to see just how "sticky" it really is.

Remember to lay down some cardboard below the gear housing should cleanup be necessary after the test.

I did hear of someone testing M/C chain wax, though nothing about whether it worked or not?
 
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