Is a vintage Craftsman horizontal bandsaw up to the task?

The Craftsman saw looks to be a fairly simple and well-made piece of equipment. In the scheme of things, it's on the low end, but may work out well depending on what you intend to use it for. Here's a short video of one being disassembled, cleaned, and put on a new stand.


It's smaller than I would like, but again seems to be built well. Note the shafts, bushings and other possible wear parts could all be either purchased or made in house. If you look closely the ad in the OP it states, the saw does have a nylon bevel gear, is using a 14 tpi blade, will cut at 135 fpm, and cuts through a 2" cold rolled bar in 2 minutes 15 seconds. While it's not blistering fast it will get the job done if you have the patience.

I personally have 5 saws in the shop. The advantages and disadvantages of each are listed below. The saws are critiqued in the order of use.

Saw #1 is the 7x 12 Startrite horizontal/vertical bandsaw. It uses a 3/4" x 98-3/4" blade. It has 3 speeds of 60 fpm, 100 fpm, and 160 fpm. While the blade length is a bit different than most I have them made by Ellis. I call them when I need them and pick them up an hour or so later. Any good saw shop should be able to make any size you want.

Advantages include relatively quick cutting time. A 2" cold rolled bar is in the neighborhood of 1 minute. While this saw is capable of contour cutting in the vertical position and has coolant capacity, I've never used these features. Speed and down feed pressure can be adjusted for the material being cut. The saw can be left unattended. Blades last over 2 years with almost daily use. Disadvantages include need to change blades depending on types and sizes of material to be cut, and footprint size. This saw in infeed roller conveyor take up far more floor space than any of the other saws

Saw #2, probably because it's the most recent acquisition is a Baileigh 350mm cold saw. Being the latest addition, it has fewer hours than the next most used saw, but and has more use recently. The advantages are, it's a variable speed machine that will turn the blade from 24 rpm to 120 rpm. As mentioned, it's accurate to within less than .005". It uses coolant to flush the swarf from the kerf. The time to cut the 2" round stock is about 30 seconds. Blades can be resharpened for around $20.00 a copy.

The disadvantages are blades are ground specific the type and size of the material being cut. 1/2" flat cold rolled will take a blade with a different number of teeth than a 4" round of the same material. Aluminum will take a different blade than steel, and again will need a different number of teeth for 1/2" flats than 4" rounds. Blades usually run between $150.00 and $250.00 depending on grind and number of teeth. I currently have 5 blades in stock for different sizes of aluminum and steel. Coolant is a necessity, it costs around $60.00 a gallon, and can be messy. The machine requires an operator at all times to be functional.

The 3rd saw is a Racine 66W2 power hacksaw. It uses a 14" blade with coolant, has 2 speeds of 100 strokes per minute, and 140 strokes per minute. The advantages are the fact that it's compact in size compared to the horizontal saw. Down pressure can be adjusted for the material being cut. Once started the machine can be left unattended. When the saw was purchased, I was buying blades for between $2.00 and $4.00 per copy. I now have over 50 blades from 3 tpi to 18 tpi. The machine is coolant capable but can be run either wet or dry. Changing blades takes less than a minute. Disadvantages are that in reality it's a bit slower than the Startrite as the 140 strokes per minute is roughly equal to the 60-fpm cutting speed of the Startrite.

Saw #4 is a Rockwell 10" vertical bandsaw. This saw is seldom used as I don't do a lot of contour work. It comes in handy when needed, but the afore mentioned saws get considerably more use. The advantages include a small footprint, and easy blade changes. The disadvantage is that it's a single speed machine, so the operator has to match the infeed speed to the material being cut. Like the cold saw operator presence is required.

Saw #5 is a Black & Decker abrasive chop saw. This is by far the least used saw. It's great for roughing to size rusty or scaly material. The disadvantages are its light weight, doesn't have a great material clamping mechanism, throws sparks and dust all over the shop, and is by far the noisiest of the bunch.

I'm sure I missed some advantages and disadvantages of each machine. However, I think I've touched on the differences enough to give an idea as to the strong and weak points of each. All of these machines except the vertical bandsaw were purchased used. All the used saws were purchased for between $200.00 and $500.00. The only one needing any attention before being put to work was the Baileigh cold saw. It was purchased as more of a project than a need for an additional saw.
 
So what about a made in USA old ridgid? Are they any better than an asian 4x6.
There's one semi local for $200. Is that too high? Would an asian 4x6 for let's say $100-$150 be just as good of a deal?

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So what about a made in USA old ridgid? Are they any better than an asian 4x6.
There's one semi local for $200. Is that too high? Would an asian 4x6 for let's say $100-$150 be just as good of a deal?

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Does it say Made in USA? Looks like an import... unless the imports are complete copies of something that used to be made domestically.
 
I've got one of those old Craftsman saws. Pivots are in good shape, blade guides are pretty easy to adjust, it cuts pretty straight. It was a project itself though, being ~50 years old. I prefer rehabbing vintage tools. Found new rubber tires online, had to cobble together 1 replacement blade guide bearing. As Nutfarmer mentioned, the bevel drive gear was worn. But someone has converted the original Covel/Atlas(?) part drawing into a 3D printable file, and I was able to buy a new gear 3D printed in nylon. Works fine for my occasional use.
 
My dad had one of the Craftsman Commercial 4x6 saws, 50 years ago, when I was growing up. I remember it working very well, particularly the hydraulic down feed.

My current 8 year-old HF 4x6 also works well, but the down feed is a cheesy spring-loaded contraption. When I bought it new, the first thing I checked was how square the cuts were. Even with the stock blade, the cuts surprisingly were absolutely square. Haven't checked since however.

Stock blade eventually broke after quite some time. Using bi-metal blades now.
 
I have a vintage band saw like that. Its fine for rough cutting as there is not much in the way of holding the material nice/true/steady
 
I'm going to try and learn how to weld. I'm setting up to do some small hobby welding projects. I need a way to cut material. Mostly small stuff. I'm not interested in an abrasive cut off saw.

How would an old school cool vintage Craftsman saw compare to an Asian 4x6? Is the Craftsman capable of cutting just as straight?
Comparing the accuracy of the cuts between an old Craftsman, Asian 4x6, or a portable bandsaw on a stand, are any of them able to just cut and go with minimum dressing up and go weld?


Point is if each one would need trued up I do have an old Craftsman disc/belt combo sander I can drag out of the basement for the task. I was planning on putting it into service anyway. If I have to straighten up a crooked cut, maybe I should just pic the saw I like best and go with it?


I really like these old Craftsman's. Are they worth having? They are a bit smaller than the 4x6 and I might be able to sit one on my work bench. It would look good next to my old 1936 Walker Turner drill press.


Random pic of the saw I found on line. And my drill press just for cool factor,,,lol.
I have this exact band saw and its a nice little saw. When I bought mine I was also able to buy the blade welder from Do-All with it. I gave the saw to my son where it remains to this day. I needed a bigger saw so had to move on. It is limited but still a better machine than the new wave of imports any day. It's a keeper.
 
The Asian machines have a gearbox with the gears running in oil- I believe the Craftsman uses a different drive system- open gearing
For longevity I would pick the Asian machine, for coolness factor the Craftsman
It uses a plastic mitre gear that I did need to replace and at that time in the mid 70s I was able to find one. I seriously doubt you can find one today. I would think you would have to make one. I still think it's worth the trouble for a nice band saw.
 
It uses a plastic mitre gear that I did need to replace
You might find a metal gear from Boston Gear Co. Keith Rucker has shown how to make an approximation of a miter gear that works. There is always printing a plastic one.
 
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